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			 Import Slayer 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: May 1999 
				
				
				
					Posts: 2,241
				 
				
				
				
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			 Is there a way to remove condensation from behind the headlight lens in the 87-93 mustangs?  My driver side lens has water behind the lens, which effects how well it works. There's a small hole on top where water seeps in. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Is the lens a sealed unit or is there a way to remove them and get the condensation out. I just need to know if I need to buy new headlights or not. 
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	'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.  | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Sep 2002 
				
				
				
					Posts: 158
				 
				
				
				
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			 My lights would do that until it got so bad that collected water started shorting out and blowing the bulb.  I eventually bought new light assemblies since mine were really yellow anyway and I was still really into the car.  Several years later now, I noticed a little bit of condensation again.  I think I'll just drill a tiny drainhole somewhere instead of spending more cash on what is now just a get-me-around-mobile. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	91 Coupe: FMS 1 5/8 unqual shorty's, BBK off road X-pipe, Super Duty T5, Pro 5.0 short shifter, 2.73 rear, G3 alt, MSD coil, dist, no smog pump, oil cooler, 195K miles, 14 deg timing, 23 mpg city/29 mpg highway @ 65 mph.  | 
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			 Rat Killer 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2002 
				Location: Cold ass Ohio 
				
				
					Posts: 1,143
				 
				
				
				
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			 Quote: 
	
 You're not even supposed to touch that bulb with your bare hands because of the oil on your fingers, so what do you think all that water is doing? Nuttin good! LOL Get a new lens bro! 
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	d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply.....  
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		#4 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2002 
				Location: SanAntonio, Tx 
				
				
					Posts: 957
				 
				
				
				
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			 Yep same problem here, Im just gonna break down and spend some cash on some new clears, 6 piece set is cheap enough, considering how well it enhances a fox, I always notice them right away on other peoples stangs, they look good (brand new) 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear  | 
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		#5 | 
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			 Import Slayer 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: May 1999 
				
				
				
					Posts: 2,241
				 
				
				
				
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			 Where is a good place to buy them at besides Ebay? Ebay want $40-$50 to ship them on top of the $90-$100+ price tag!! 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Screw that bullshit!! I'll go to the "U pull it" junkyard and get both pair for $20 
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	'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.  | 
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		#6 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2002 
				Location: SanAntonio, Tx 
				
				
					Posts: 957
				 
				
				
				
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			 "texas mustang", or "Late model restoration" sometimes runs a deal on them, you can get oe ford ones, or repro's which are cheaper, and look good as well. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			dont know about shipping, but luckily im only about 2 hours away from these places. 
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	X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear  | 
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		#7 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Sep 2002 
				
				
				
					Posts: 26
				 
				
				
				
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			 I had the same problem, my headlight blew so I replaced it and a week later it blew again.  Then I noticed I had water in the headlight.  Well, I wanted a quick fix and just took the headlight out, dumped the water and used a clear silicon glue to put around the outside of the headlight cover and where it attaches to the rest of the unit.  Basically, where it was leaking.  It worked, stopped leaking and it didn't cost me a thing.  So, if you're lights aren't discolored that bad and you don't want to spend the money on new ones, just try some silicon.  
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	One other quick solution is to just drill a drain hole in the bottom of the lens. Don't recommend it as you would be exposing the light to some elements but that would work too.  | 
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