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cooling problem from hell, part duex!
ok, for the ones that didnt read my last post, i put an explorer intake on and something in the install went bad, fixed the leaks and it was still overheating, put a new rad cap and thermostat in last weekend and well i thought it was fixed, it stayed a little under 180 last sunday, then i had to go back to school and got back this friday, drove it that night and it was fine, even did a few sprints to 125 or so and it only went a little over 180 for a min and then went right back down after i beat on it, drove it saturday morning and it was fine as well, sat night was a different story, it never overheated last night but it did get to and stayed at 190-200, then today i drove it and it went to about the same (190-200) and was pouring a little out the resevoir neck, came home looked it over and the radiator was just barely warm as well as the upper hose, drove it again and the temp went almost all the way up to about 240 or so http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/frown.gif no good, came back and same thing, the radiator was barely warm, but then after i let it sit for a minute, the radiator and the upper hose got hot, but they werent when it was running, could this be hot coolant from the engine going back into the radiator through the lower hose? did i buy a bad thermostat, i got an 180 degree made by Stant, this is the worst experience i've ever gone through with any car, i need an expert to look at it
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
What's your timing set too?
Or did you not have to pull or loosen the distributor when you swapped the intake? What about the gaskets for the intake? Will they go on either way or do they only fit one way? Did you check to make sure that all the cooling holes were open and not blocked off by the gasket? Are you using a 50/50 mix of water/antifreeze? The thermostat is directional. When you put it in, did you face it the right way? It has an arrow on it. [This message has been edited by rtz (edited 03-11-2001).] |
the intake gaskets had writing on the head side, those are on right, made sure no coolant passages were blocked, the timing is at 14, put the stat in the way the it said on its package, the spring end inside the block, and the mixture is 50/50. has anyone had trouble with Stant termostats? im thinking thats what the problem is, but the only thing is that im about to leave again back to school and cant change it till next friday, i'm gonna collect everyone's thoughts through the week
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
Do you have an electric fan or the stock factory one?
If it's the stock type fan with a clutch, with the car OFF, see if you can spin the fan with you hand. If it just spins around and around, then the clutch is worn out. If it spins, but it drags some, it's still good. |
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the upper hose was old and it was a liitle loose and leaking just a little, and 2 other small leaks from hoses either not being tight enough or forgotten to be tightened
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I have had 3 bad experiences with Stant thermostats in the past 2 years. 1 when I built my 347, damn thing would stick intermittently. 1 on my Dodge truck when I did a head change. And 1 on my buddies vette when we did a cam & head swap. The last one scared the @#!% out of us because when we fired it up to break in the cam the temps went through the roof. The only way we knew it was the thermostat in all 3 instances is because we have a Gano filter installed in the rad hose and we could see through the clear tube that little or no water flow was taking place.
Also, make sure you have no air pockets in the system. Check your fan as described in another post, and you might want to try running it without a thermostat to verify you are getting good flow. Boil the thermostat to verify it is working ------------------ 347, 279/284 .493/.510, TFS TW, Stealth, 750, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, Art Carr C-4, Currie 9" w/3.55, alum Drv Shft, susp mods, 4 wheel power disc In a 66 coupe |
FIVEOFPATROL - Sorry to hear about your problems. I had something similar to this happen when I put the cam in a few weeks ago. I had put a Stant heavy duty/high flow 180 therm in, took it out Friday night and it got real hot real fast, upper hose got hot, but the radiator was still cool to the touch. I seem to remember having problems with the heavy duty/high flow therm before. Went back to the store and just got the normal 180 therm (Stant also), but before I put it in I drilled a tiny hole on the flat part of the thermostat (Jeep sells them this way) and made sure that hole was at the top when I installed it. Supposed to help in filling the cooling system and getting air bubbles out. Also I poured in a bottle of Water Wetter. It's been OK since.
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well, just pulled out the Stant and put in a Napa OEM thermostat, the f%#$&@g temp still went all the way up after about 5 minutes of driving, came back and there was no leaks but i felt the radiator and it was very cool and the upper hose was just barely warm, pulled the cap off slowly and very hot steam came out, before i left i made sure the radiator was full and the resevoir was at the full cold line, now both levels are down a little bit but im thinking thats from the coolant getting so hot and pouring out the overflow, im so lost right now and dont know where to go with this, i dont have the money to have a shop work on it, its gotta be something from the intake install, so my next guess is something blocking a coolant passage, but why would it have run fine for 3 days and then get blocked? i dont know, this is really getting to me, someone please help, i need to have it runnin good for the midwest stang thing April 14th, thanks again
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
Man Drew, you are having the exact same problem as me! I pulled my heads and my gaskets were fine BTW. Nothing out of the ordinary there. I have narrowed it down to a plugged radiator. After I pulled the radiator and ran a hose through it it took a bit for water to start coming out the other side. Pull the radiator and go to Ace Hardware and get some Muriatic Acid. Pour it in the radiator and let it sit for awhile then flush it out with fresh water. Do that a few times and it should flow better. Probably not your problem since it was fine before the intake install, but wouldn't hurt. Total cost for the acid is like $4.00.
Did you route your serpentine belt the correct way around your water pump? If not and it's running backwards that could be the problem. I have no idea really as I am in the same situation as you now I think. We'll see when I get everything back together. Good luck man. If you need any help let me know. I gotta pull my cam tomorrow and that'll only take a few, so after that I will be free for a couple days. ------------------ Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here |
Sounds like you have air in the lines. This can cause all kinds of funny over heating problems.
------------------ Check my site for mod www.fordmustanggt.com |
maybe temp guage went bad? just another thought. I know my car did this and i had alot of crap in the radiator and had to flush it 3 times just because crap keep getting in the thermostat making it stick also stuff keep getting in the radiator lines
well good luck man hope for the best. |
thats what i've thought a few times but i've ran it quite a bit and i figured that would get the air out, im gonna let it run tomorrow for a while with the cap off and see what that does, anyone else got any ideas?
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
about the radiator, my problem came after i installed the intake, before that my temperature never went over 180, so i dont think its something with the radiator, i'll try the acid and flushing it tomorrow as well
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
I might get a new cap if you don't have one.
Maybe jack the front of the car up when you try to get the air out. This has helped my a time or two. ------------------ Check my site for mod www.fordmustanggt.com |
If steam shot out when you popped the cap, you have air pockets. This is probably the demon you've been trying to exercise. I had a customer with an Escort a while back with a similar problem. I told him he had air pockets; he wouldn't believe me, then he came in a short time later and found that was the problem after all.
I'd go ahead and do what you suggested. That being you let it run with the cap off, and a fresh mix of 50/50 ready to fill it. I'm willing to bet the water level will go down quite a bit. You might wanna try doing this on even ground, too. Good luck. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif p.s. Is your pump the proper rotation??? ------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch http://smilecwm.tripod.com/net3/wink2.gif |
Don't pour that Muriatic acid in with the radiator hooked up in the car Drew (very bad). It's best to pull the radiator and lay it flat on the ground then pour it in and let it sit. You'll want to dilute it some at first, then richen the mixture until it starts to boil.
You don't see any milky sh!t in your overflow tank do you? Like a film on the wall of the tank? Mine had what appeared to be a head gasket failure (oil in the water), but the gaskets looked like new when I pulled them. Check for a pinched overflow tube, get a new cap, check water pump rotation, and flush your radiator. Once all that stuff is done we'll try something else. Call me... 765-569-6424 ------------------ Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here [This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 03-18-2001).] |
i think she may be fixed, i let it run for about 25minutes with the cap off and then put a little more coolant in the overflow tank, drove it and it never went above 185 degrees, then came home,let it cool, drove it again and the same, third time was the same result, then i probably a stupid idea but i decided to really test it out by driving it back to college 85 miles away, driving at about 2700RPM the whole way with the heal on low and the temp never went about 180, seems to be fixed but i've also thought that a couple times before too, so im knocking on every piece of wood i can find http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif thanks for the help guys
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
I'll knock on some wood for ya too http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/wink.gif
------------------ 347, 279/284 .493/.510, TFS TW, Stealth, 750, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, Art Carr C-4, Currie 9" w/3.55, alum Drv Shft, susp mods, 4 wheel power disc In a 66 coupe |
Glad you got things under control fiveohpatrol.
I read all the replies to this post and I must say I even learned something. MW rocks. ------------------------------- '79 Mustang Coup 4" Cowl Weld wheels (15x6;15x8) Stock 5.8L C4 w/ shift kit 1.5" MAC full length headers Holley 750 CFM Edelbrock intake 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters 8.8" Rear end w/ 3.55 gears (Now that's more like it!!) http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif Front: 225/60/15 Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II 14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup soon) http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/cool.gif "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
son of a F%&@*&# b&%#*, the damn thing overheated again today, i drove the crap out of it for the last couple days and it was perfect, even drove it all the way out here to school fine, but drove it today and it went up again, it was fine until i beat on it and then it cooled down again so its a little different, could my radiator be clogged from draining it and filling it a few times lately? its the factory radiator so thats what im thinking, im confused because the temp said about 210 and the radiator was barely warm until i shut the engine off then it started to heat up and then got really hot, what the hell is going on?
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
Are you sure it's overheating? I have found that I've got a voltage regulator problem with my guages. It runs fine all day, but at night when I turn the lights and heater on my fuel, oil pressure and temp guages all read high. Haven't had a chance to tear into it yet. Something to consider though.
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almost positive its overheating, its the only guage acting up, also when it does it its not putting out hardly any heat through the heater, this problem is odd, because i just went down and let it run again with the cap off and put a little more coolant in and then drove it and it was fine! maybe i hadnt gotten the whole air pocket out the 1st time ? i dont know, im gonna drive it again in an hour or two and see what happens, oh yah and when i had the cap off i could see little flakes in my coolant, probably time for a new radiator right?
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
well, for about the 4th time i thought i fixed it and really didnt, temp went up about 5 minutes into driving it this time, i still need help
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
My girlfriends notch is doing the exact same thing. Been lettin her drive it w/o thermostat to get by for now. Burped the cooland half a million times. Im fed up, so I am pullin the heads friday. This better fix it. Ive tried everything that has been mentioned in this post, no good in my case. 230 degrees and no heat, top off coolant and runs great 4 a couple of days then 230 degrees again. Good luck fixing yours!
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fiveohpatrol
Do you think your radiator's clogged? When you run the car in park with the radiator cap off, can you see the water readily flowing through it (if so, then water pump is probably okay and so is radiator)? Is the coolant in the radiator clear and colorless or green (both are good). IF it is not, but it is a rust color (orangish) or not CLEAR, then you have rust and other crap in your radiator and it is screwed. Get another. Let's assume you have enough antifreeze, enough water, and your thermo is fine. Next time the temp gauge reads 210 degrees, pull over and shut off car. You WILL either hear the coolant BOILING or see it overflowing into reservoir or somewhere. If temp gauge reads 210 and you hear NO boiling, then you are MOST LIKELY NOT overheating. IF this happens, I strongly suggest changing your temp SENDING UNIT. If that doesn't work you may have a screwed radiator. ------------------------------- '79 Mustang Coup 4" Cowl Weld wheels (15x6;15x8) Stock 5.8L C4 w/ shift kit 1.5" MAC full length headers Holley 750 CFM Edelbrock intake 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters 8.8" Rear end w/ 3.55 gears (Now that's more like it!!) http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif Front: 225/60/15 Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II 14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup soon) http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/cool.gif "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body [This message has been edited by Fox Body (edited 03-22-2001).] |
when i run it with the cap off i do see very small flakes in the coolant but it is still a solid green color, also when running with the cap off for a little while the coolant comes to the top of the radiator and starts to spill out, is it supposed to do this?
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
There still might be air in your system. I know oem t-stats have a check ball that bleed air through to the radiator. Another cause is that you might have gotten another bad t-stat. Check you guages and sending unit.
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Yes it's suppose to start spilling out if cap is off if you run it for a while (if you rev the engine a little, you'll see water go down and come back up when you let off).
But you need to check and make sure your sending unit isn't screwed. I would suggest once again, drive the car and if/when temp guage goes up to ~210, shut off car and listen for boiling or look for overflow or excess coolant in reservoir. If none of the above, then it is not overheating. So change your temperature sending unit. It is NOT an odd thing for the sending units to go bad. Don't go buying a brand new radiator when it could be something as simple as a sending unit. One more thing, when it gets to the supposed 210 degrees, when you go to shut off the car, it'll most likely idle in park at a higher rpm than usual and then when you shut it off, it MAY shut off and then kinda sputter a little (as if it wants to crank back up). ------------------------------- '79 Mustang Coup 4" Cowl Weld wheels (15x6;15x8) Stock 5.8L C4 w/ shift kit 1.5" MAC full length headers Holley 750 CFM Edelbrock intake 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters 8.8" Rear end w/ 3.55 gears (Now that's more like it!!) http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif Front: 225/60/15 Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II 14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup soon) http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/cool.gif "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
once again i think i may have got it, 2fastLx and i pulled the radiator and put hose to it, it was flowing like crap, poured some Muraitic acid in and cleaned it out really well, put the hose to it again and it was flowing a hell of a lot better, got it all back in and it stayed cool, drove it all the way back home the next day about another hour, and it was fine all the way till i got off the exit about 10 min from my house, temp went up for a short time and also lost heat, i guess lost flow for a minute, then was fine again, drove it an hour later and did the same thing whenever i got on it, came back and ran it with the cap off and topped off the radiator, drove it and it was fine, the cleaning of the radiator really helped but i think i need a new one to REALLY fix the problem
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
You could try the acid again Drew and it may solve the problem completely until you can get a new radiator. If we had more time I would have let it sit in there for about 20 minutes then flush it out and done that a couple times. And you could do this with the radiator in the car. You'd just have to be careful when pouring the acid in and spend a lot more time flushing it out to make sure you got everything. Keep a close eye on her and don't let it get too hot man. I'd hate for you to have to go through what I am right now :P
------------------ Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here |
i feel for ya man. my car really has no heat at all and it likes to play temp games with me also i know i have a shi$ in the radiator. but i am assuming that when the needle on the stock t-gauge is just below the middle i am at 180 but when i run it hard it like to climb a little bit. but other times it just stays above the first tick on the guage runs best that way it has not over heated on me yet but i think i am going to call a junk yard and see if i cant find a 3 or 4 core radiator for cheap and throw it in and see how it does. maybe you could try the same
good luck man |
I forgot to tell ya, keep checking it and topping it off. It could be a combination of air in the system and a plugged radiator.
------------------ Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here |
To get rid of the air pockets: 1-Jack up your car. 2- Take off the radiator cap. 3-Let it run for 30 minutes. 4- Lower and top off with fluids.
Also, check your belt. I just spent 2 weeks running hot to find out my fan belt had streched out. Make sure the fan is working properly. I hope this might help because I spent 2 weeks of misery before diagnosing the problem. One last thing, Could there be a problem with the new intake gaskets. Too much to think about- Good Luck, Ed ------------------ |
One thing to check also is there is a coolant restrictor in the heater hoses in by the firewall. It was put in all GT's from 87 or 88 on. But it was put in all cop car Mustangs. Is your car an ex-cop car. If the restrictor is in there maybe it is plugging also. The restrictor should be on the inlet side. High motor speeds were causing heater cores to blow, so Ford put a restrictor in.
How is the heater core? If this is bad or old it could be chunking off into the rad, causing blockage. Once again buy a thermostat with check ball and try to burp it of air. Air bubbles can be a pain to get out. |
well i dont know what the hell is up with it, i started a new post about it after i put a new radiator in and it still didnt fix it(i would need one down the line anyway), the car then started putting white smoke out the tailpipes, and the oil had coolant in it, but the coolant in the radiator and the overflow wasnt bubbling, i think one of the intake gaskets slipped and there is coolant getting in the lifter valley, im gonna rip it back off the weekend after next and find out, oh yah, it is an excop car and it has a new heater core in it
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
Is your thermostat in backwards? It could be a bad thermostat I bought 3 in a row that were all BAD!!!
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I had the same problem as you did, scared the crap out of me. I found that i had replaced the negative ground cable and the chassis ground (which was an exposed section of the wire attached to the frame) was the ground to the chassis and the replacement cable had no provisions for a chassis ground. My lights would dim when i came to a stop and my oil and temp gauges read very high. The coolant was at (according to the gauge) 240* and when i'd slow down it'd go down to 180*. I put on a new chassis ground attached to the engine where the negative terminal ground was, and i also noticed my radiator was somewhat plugged restricting flow so i replaced that too. the temp never goes above the N on normal (damn ford gauges) and i haven't had any problems in standstill traffic either. I hope this info. may be of some help. Good luck, i hope you find it.
------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 T5, FMS aluminum radiator & 180* thermostat, 1 5/8 shortys/2.5" duals, '88 GT tail lights and wheels, Holley 4160 4 BBL, smog pump idler, more coming soon |
but if thats the problem then why would i be getting coolant in my oil? that wire is pretty worn out so i should replace it anyway, maybe its the reason why it is getting hot and it getting hot probably hardened the intake gasket to where it started to leak into the lifter valley, i dunno, i'll see what happens
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install |
i also noticed my lights dimming more than they used to, i just figured that it was the pulleys, but after reading this they seem to be dimming more than they used to
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Re: cooling problem from hell, part duex!
Sorry to hear about your problems, I just wanted to let you know of a problem i had that was like yours. I once owned a 91 bronco with a windsor in it. I had to replace the short block, afterwards I had all kinds of problems with it over heating. Like you, I placed the gaskets printed side down, per the instructions of a mechanic friend of mine. After a short while I started finding oil in water and water in oil. Another friend helped me tear it back down to locate the problem. It turned out that one of the gaskets was on wrong. I don't remember what brand they were, but they had a label showing one end of the gasket towards the front of the engine.
When installed correctly, one gasket had the print side against the head, and the other had the print side against the intake. I don't know if this could be your problem, but it may be worth looking into. A simple trip to the parts store and examination of the same type of gasket could answer the question. By the way, the bronco is still going strong 3 years later with no more problems, wish I still owned it. |
Re: cooling problem from hell, part duex!
djfox, this post is from 2001, should be able to see the dates of posting the the top left corner of each post...
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