Cooling problem revisited

Stang951 · 05-03-2002, 10:55 PM

Well I still have not fixed the cooling problem. In traffic today (without the a/c on) the car overheated. In fact it got to 250 before I could shut it off. So far I have bought the 3 core radiator (Godan from PepBoys), a Black Magic fan (got rid of the crappy flex fan), and changed the t-stat to a 160. I talked to a guy at the Radiator shop who said that he believed that I wasnt getting enough air flow. I also told him that I might have a standard rotation pump, which I will find out about tomorrow.

My question is which upgrade should I perform next, or try the last two at the same time:
1. Griffin 31X19 , 1" core radiator
2. a secondary pusher fan (gonna have to trim alot of material off the headlight mounting panel.

gtsr515 · 05-04-2002, 12:17 AM

get rid of that 160 stat!

with a 160, it is open all the time and never allows the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to cool, eventually the coolant becomes heat saturated and overheats, common with Florida STANGERS.

Mustang_289 · 05-04-2002, 07:28 AM

Did the radiator guy do a pressure check on the radiator and cap? Sometimes the cap doesn't seal and the radiator doesn't pressurize causing over-heating problems

Stang951 · 05-04-2002, 09:09 AM

No, no pressure test. The cap is only a year old, it was bought at the same time as the radiator. It is one of the Stant Levervents, so I might also get rid of it and get a regular cap.

PKRWUD · 05-04-2002, 01:46 PM

What kind of temp gauge are you using?

Does it ever overflow into the puke tank?

Move up to a new 18 pound radiator cap and replace the t-stat with a 180, or even a 192. Stant levervent caps are usually good, and are what I would recommend, but Stant t-stats suck eggs, and should be avoided at all costs. I recommend an OEM Ford t-stat, as it's one of the only ones available that has a built in bypass that permits "burping" of air pockets.

Take care,
-Chris

Stang951 · 05-04-2002, 03:56 PM

Using an Autometer Phantom gauge.

I replaced the cap today with a regular cap to test it and it didn't change anything.

I also replaced the wter pump with a 93 model pump instead of the 84 Corwn Victoria pump. This way I can try a stock fan and clutch set-up. Hopefully my friend didn't get rid of my old fan and clutch.

carbd302 · 05-04-2002, 04:09 PM

I'm having the same problem, it heats up to around the middle and I have a 160 thermostat. Im running a 700 CFM double pumper, mechanical secondary carb, fully ported dart seniors, shaved over 50 thousandths. 1 3/4" long tubes, victor jr intake and more. I have my 190 thermostat. Should I put it back in?

Alex

Agent_4573 · 05-04-2002, 05:18 PM

Go back to a 180 degree thermostat... its the 160's that are killing all you guys....

sn95gt19 · 05-04-2002, 05:29 PM

i have a 95 with a brand new water pump, brand new radiator,and a 192 thermostat, and my car overheats in city driving only, when im on the highway it stays at the o in nOrmal. any suggestions

Stang Runner · 05-05-2002, 07:31 PM

I have 160 in my car and I have NEVER Got over 170 every..... I can put my hand on the Radator righht after i Have drove it and its not even to Hot...That Said I live in Michagan not to hot...Most of the time...... I do use the stock Gauge But I have a new temp sender and it never get Past the frist Mark...

Coupe5oh · 05-05-2002, 07:50 PM

Yea with my 160 stat it ran cool, probaly too cool, just put in a 180 the other day because the 160 wasnt warming up enough, causing bad idle, now it runs fine, most people i know with carbed cars run 'without' a stat, and it runs like 170, at least thats what this dude down the street told me his does.

So you have a BM fan? the BM flex-a-lite works well with me, and i live in south tx, which is hotter than florida sometimes.

Stang951 · 05-05-2002, 08:32 PM

I figured the BM would be fine, but it has not trned out to be. Now that I have a waterpump made for a Mustang, I can try the stock fan and clutch as opposed to the BM or the Flex and see what that does. I am also thinking of changing the t-stat, but want a good one.

Coupe5oh · 05-05-2002, 08:43 PM

I have the flexalite fan made specially for the 5.0, it pulls more air then any other flexalite's i know of, i guess the clutch fan is worth a try, but i've had bad luck with them, just the durability of them, i like to have as less drag on the motor as possible, but i do alot of racing.

hope it works.

btw, i have a 'stant' t-stat, i guess thats the chepo t-stat, but it seems to be working fine.

Stang951 · 05-05-2002, 08:51 PM

I tested three Stant t-stats and every one was so inconsistent that I would never use another one again. The first 180 that I tried opend at five different temps. It would never open at 180, more like 190, 200, 195, etc.

Stang951 · 05-09-2002, 04:37 PM

Now I have the stock fan and heavy duty fan clutch. I ran for about 35 minutes with the a/c on and it got to 210. After sitting idle for about ten minutes more the temp started to go higher. Not very fast but it started to climb. Now what?

05-03-2002, 10:55 PM	#1
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	Cooling problem revisited Well I still have not fixed the cooling problem. In traffic today (without the a/c on) the car overheated. In fact it got to 250 before I could shut it off. So far I have bought the 3 core radiator (Godan from PepBoys), a Black Magic fan (got rid of the crappy flex fan), and changed the t-stat to a 160. I talked to a guy at the Radiator shop who said that he believed that I wasnt getting enough air flow. I also told him that I might have a standard rotation pump, which I will find out about tomorrow. My question is which upgrade should I perform next, or try the last two at the same time: 1. Griffin 31X19 , 1" core radiator 2. a secondary pusher fan (gonna have to trim alot of material off the headlight mounting panel. __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

05-04-2002, 12:17 AM	#2
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	get rid of that 160 stat! with a 160, it is open all the time and never allows the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to cool, eventually the coolant becomes heat saturated and overheats, common with Florida STANGERS. __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

05-04-2002, 09:09 AM	#4
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	No, no pressure test. The cap is only a year old, it was bought at the same time as the radiator. It is one of the Stant Levervents, so I might also get rid of it and get a regular cap. __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

05-04-2002, 01:46 PM	#5
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	What kind of temp gauge are you using? Does it ever overflow into the puke tank? Move up to a new 18 pound radiator cap and replace the t-stat with a 180, or even a 192. Stant levervent caps are usually good, and are what I would recommend, but Stant t-stats suck eggs, and should be avoided at all costs. I recommend an OEM Ford t-stat, as it's one of the only ones available that has a built in bypass that permits "burping" of air pockets. Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

05-04-2002, 03:56 PM	#6
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	Using an Autometer Phantom gauge. I replaced the cap today with a regular cap to test it and it didn't change anything. I also replaced the wter pump with a 93 model pump instead of the 84 Corwn Victoria pump. This way I can try a stock fan and clutch set-up. Hopefully my friend didn't get rid of my old fan and clutch. __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

05-04-2002, 07:28 AM	#3
Mustang_289 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Posts: 512	Did the radiator guy do a pressure check on the radiator and cap? Sometimes the cap doesn't seal and the radiator doesn't pressurize causing over-heating problems

05-04-2002, 04:09 PM	#7
carbd302 Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 1	I'm having the same problem, it heats up to around the middle and I have a 160 thermostat. Im running a 700 CFM double pumper, mechanical secondary carb, fully ported dart seniors, shaved over 50 thousandths. 1 3/4" long tubes, victor jr intake and more. I have my 190 thermostat. Should I put it back in? Alex Last edited by carbd302; 05-04-2002 at 05:27 PM..

05-04-2002, 05:18 PM	#8
Agent_4573 Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: New Jersey Posts: 375	Go back to a 180 degree thermostat... its the 160's that are killing all you guys.... __________________ '89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression. If anyone ever wants to go to Raceway Park in Englishtown New Jersey, give me a shout. RICER HATERS CLUB MEMBER 87! www.ricehatersclub.com

05-04-2002, 05:29 PM	#9
sn95gt19 motors done......woohooo Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 799	i have a 95 with a brand new water pump, brand new radiator,and a 192 thermostat, and my car overheats in city driving only, when im on the highway it stays at the o in nOrmal. any suggestions __________________ 95gt lazer red (98 cobra clone) Rice Haters Club Member #116

05-05-2002, 07:31 PM	#10
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	I have 160 in my car and I have NEVER Got over 170 every..... I can put my hand on the Radator righht after i Have drove it and its not even to Hot...That Said I live in Michagan not to hot...Most of the time...... I do use the stock Gauge But I have a new temp sender and it never get Past the frist Mark... __________________ Engine: steel mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, GT-40 Intake ported Lower, No power steering, No A/C, Mac cold intake, 65MM TB, 255 Fuel pump, 24's, AFR 165 58cc, Rocker Arms 1.7with the stock Cam, 1 5/8 short headers, offRoad X-pipe Drive Train: 3.55, T-5 with a Pro 5.0 shifter 12.656@107.71MPH See It at www.T-racing.com/mustang.htm

05-05-2002, 07:50 PM	#11
Coupe5oh Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 734	Yea with my 160 stat it ran cool, probaly too cool, just put in a 180 the other day because the 160 wasnt warming up enough, causing bad idle, now it runs fine, most people i know with carbed cars run 'without' a stat, and it runs like 170, at least thats what this dude down the street told me his does. So you have a BM fan? the BM flex-a-lite works well with me, and i live in south tx, which is hotter than florida sometimes. __________________ Police package 5spd 90 Lx, Stock original motor, 3.27grs, BM fan, fms 10.5 clutch, D&D quadrant, and adjuster, ADS chip, 180 stat, mac cai, mac h-pipe, mac subframe connectors, ASP crank pulley, ripper shifter, 26x10.5 M/T sport pros welds. 246 hp according to analyzer Race weight: 3,120 E.t-13.57 with 26x10.50's e.t. streets. 1.88 60' mph- 99.92 mph

05-05-2002, 08:32 PM	#12
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	I figured the BM would be fine, but it has not trned out to be. Now that I have a waterpump made for a Mustang, I can try the stock fan and clutch as opposed to the BM or the Flex and see what that does. I am also thinking of changing the t-stat, but want a good one. __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

05-05-2002, 08:43 PM	#13
Coupe5oh Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 734	I have the flexalite fan made specially for the 5.0, it pulls more air then any other flexalite's i know of, i guess the clutch fan is worth a try, but i've had bad luck with them, just the durability of them, i like to have as less drag on the motor as possible, but i do alot of racing. hope it works. btw, i have a 'stant' t-stat, i guess thats the chepo t-stat, but it seems to be working fine. __________________ Police package 5spd 90 Lx, Stock original motor, 3.27grs, BM fan, fms 10.5 clutch, D&D quadrant, and adjuster, ADS chip, 180 stat, mac cai, mac h-pipe, mac subframe connectors, ASP crank pulley, ripper shifter, 26x10.5 M/T sport pros welds. 246 hp according to analyzer Race weight: 3,120 E.t-13.57 with 26x10.50's e.t. streets. 1.88 60' mph- 99.92 mph

05-05-2002, 08:51 PM	#14
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	I tested three Stant t-stats and every one was so inconsistent that I would never use another one again. The first 180 that I tried opend at five different temps. It would never open at 180, more like 190, 200, 195, etc. __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

05-09-2002, 04:37 PM	#15
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	Now I have the stock fan and heavy duty fan clutch. I ran for about 35 minutes with the a/c on and it got to 210. After sitting idle for about ten minutes more the temp started to go higher. Not very fast but it started to climb. Now what? __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

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