Cooling System

[z_herbst]

Thanks ahead of time to anyone who can help me.

I own a 1991 Mustang GT Convertable. Stock everything, 145000 miles. I just bought it 4 weeks ago, I'm still working out all the problems. The previous owner must have treated the car poorly, for when I changed the oil it looked like mud. The oil filter looked ancient.

Anyway, when I got it home that first day, I immediately checked all the fluids, changed the oil first, added a bit of antifreeze, because I couldn't see that it had *any*. Several days later, while taking it for a joy ride since I hadn't driven it much (Still fixxing things), I parked it, and noticed after it had been shut off for about 2 minutes a *lot* of smoke was coming from the hood, I immidiately popped the hood and looking under, noticing the hood and surrounding panels were so hot I couldn't keep my hands on them. Although the temperature guage read "Normal", the antifreeze was boiling and spilling out everywhere through the overflow hole on the coolant reservoir. The antifeeze had turned *brown*, and looked like chocolate milk, literally. THe engine would then not start for another 10 minutes. After driving it home, I parked it till the next weekend, when I emptied and flushed out the entire cooling system, radiator and all. That was last Saturday that I flushed it, I've been driving it again now, but just today it did the exact same thing, the engine compartment heated to a point I couldn't touch it. The antifreeze was boiling, although this time it wasn't brown, atleast, but a dark shade of green. It did start right up this time, though, although reluctantly, not turning over immidiately like it has been. I don't really know what else to do... do I need a new radiator? I'm new to Mustangs, I've always wanted one, but this is my first. please, any help greatly appreciated.

[gray87GT]

The first thing I would try is the thermostat. If you get a new one get a 180*.

[Smokedawg]

When I first purchased my mustang and when it was stock the temp gauge always stayed in normal but when I would open the hood that hot air from the motor would burn me. Everything was very hot to the touch. If you do end up replacing the radiator. Buy a 3-core!!

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347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

[z_herbst]

Oh, forgot to mention, I already replaced the thermostat.

[gray87GT]

It could also be the fan clutch. See if it spins freely, if it does than it's something else.

[Fox Body]

Have you run the car in park with the radiator cap off? You said the first time it overheated the coolant was brown-like chocolate milk. Sounds like radiator is rusting.

Take off cap and let run. Looking towards the firewall of the car, you should observe good flow from left of radiator to right, if not, could be clogged, also, large amts of rust can be indications of clogged radiator.

Has the coolant got brown since last flushing? Also, the second time it overheated, did temp gauge still read normal?? If so, you will need to change either or both sending unit and/or temp guage.

Doesn't sound like radiator is cooling coolant efficiently.

Previous owner of car doesn't seem like he cared to much for her either.

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'79 Mustang Coup w/ 4" Cowl
Stock 5.8L, C4 w/ shift kit
Holley 750 CFM, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft
2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters
Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II
Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear end w/ 3.55 gears
14 x 4" K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup soon)

"Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

[z_herbst]

OK.. thank you all for your help, it's much appreciated.

[slo95]

how is this going? I am having some cooling issues too.

[z_herbst]

Not that great, considering I have to get loaned money from my parents (I am underaged, and currently out of a job. ) to fix it, and I can only do so much at one time. Right now I'm having to fill the radiator with pure water when it gets too low, because I can't afford to keep putting anti-freeze in it. But, it looks like I'm gonna have to get a new radiator/have the old one fixxed. Digging myself deeper and deeper in debt, yay! Anyway, the temperature gauge is moving. And the engine is remaining in the *NORMAL* range, although even though it's normal, when I shut off the engine if it is filled up to the point where it is *supposed* to be at it spills everywhere. The area surrounding the engine, not just the compartment, but the panels and all surrounding the engine are almost un-touchable when I shut it off... I dunno, hopefully eventually I can get this all fixxed...

[slo95]

does the radiator hold pressure? might try a new cap...is there any air in the system? try "burping" it...can you feel the coolant in the upper hose after the thermostat opens? none of the holes are collapsing, right?

[fiveohpatrol]

if you have to keep adding coolant then theres a leak somewhere, if you dont see it leaking externally, then you've either got a head gasket blown or intake gasket letting coolant into the lifter valley, by the way you described the oil, it sounds like theres coolant in it, check your dipstick and see if theres any trace of coolant in it, if you cant tell, just let a little out of the drain plug, this is what my car was doing, i kept thinking i was putting the intake on when it turned out to be my head gasket good luck with yours

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88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

[z_herbst]

The coolant isn't leaking anywhere, but when I fill it up to where it's supposed to be, when I drive it for longer then 30 minutes, and then park and turn it off, pretty much all of the coolant in the reseviour boils out of it. So, I fill it back up with water instead of antifreeze.

[slo95]

Did you test the ECT and Temp Sender? They could go bad and may not show a code...just a thought.

[z_herbst]

Hmmm... well, I hate to admit this, but I don't know what those are, let alone how to administer them. Anyway, I'm gonna replace the fan clutch assembly first, then see what happens.

[slider]

I had the same problem when I first bought my car. The radiator was clogged, cap was bad, EGR hoses were leaking, and thermostat was sticking.

Do the following:
wash your engine throughly with a good engine degreaser (cover distributor with a bag) and high pressure water. This will help you find any problems such as oil and water leaks.

2) Flush your radiator. Use a water hose and load the radiator until it spills all over the place. Open up the drain plug and continue to do this until there is no sign of rust, dirt etc. start your car up and continue to do this (dont let it get too hot).

Inspect the radiator while the car is runing:
Check for air bubbles, unstable level, or stable water level. If is unstable and it moves up and down slowly, then you're okay.

Second: if the radiator cap has signs of bad sealing, rust, etc replace it ASAP. They are only like $5.

check oil dipstick. if there are no signs of water -antifreze in the oil, then you are okay.

now let your car run for about 15-20 min and watch it carefully. If the temp continues to rise then you probably have a bad thermostat or maybe fan clutch.

This is easy. If the tempeture rises and stays kinda of high and all of the sudden drops, then you probably have a bad thermostat.
If the fan is either broken, not spining freely, or acting up.. then you know what to do.
To test the clutch do the following:
when engine is cold and off, try spining the fan with your hands. if it moves freely then you're okay.

BUY a code scanner tool. they only cost about $25-30 and you can find em at your local auto part stores. those are life savers and are going to help you keep your money in your wallet.

if you have any questions feel free to email me at netslider3@home.com

[z_herbst]

As of right now, I have replaced the thermostat with a 195* (I replaced it with that before I was told to replace it with a 180*) and I have replaced the radiator cap. It appears to be cooling better then it was before, but still not adequetly. The fan appears to spin freely, but how *freely* is it supposed to be? When spinning it, once I stop applying force, the fan will spin another 3 or 4 inches then stop. When I start and rev the engine, the fan will accelerate with the RPMs only slightly, from what I can tell. Their is no big difference in speed. So, do you recomment I buy a new fan clutch assembly or get a radiator?

[Doctor DeBo]

Hey dude,if you need a radiator Ive got one that Im not using.Its out of my 92LX with an AOD trans,its a stock radiator with 78,000 miles on it,like one of the other guys said though if your going to get another radiator go with a 3 core.If you want it let me know,50$ and its yours.

[z_herbst]

Will this radiator work with my V-8, A/C, and Automatic transmission? (yeah, it's a automatic... unfortunately, when I get enuf money I want to buy a manual trans for it)

How much does a 3-core cost and where can I buy one?



[This message has been edited by z_herbst (edited 04-16-2001).]

[fiveohpatrol]

believe it or not, pepboys has an awesome 3-row radiator for stangs, its about $110, just ask for the heavy duty radiator, its a very nice piece

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88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, Explorer intake, pulleys, Crane 1.7's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after rocker and intake install

[82 GT]

I have noticed something on here a lot. Everyone always says "get a 3 core radiator".
They make 4 core radiators but I never hear anyone mentioning them. I have a Griffen 4 core unit in my '82GT and at the time it wasn't too much more than the 3 core unit.
I just wondered why no one uses them on this board.

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'82 GT 351W C-4,BBK headers,Carter 625 carb,Comp.Cam,Flowmaster exhaust.
1988 GT...T-5,bone stock