![]() |
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Quote:
Correct, which also means as you're getting into your top end, and the vacuum is rising again, a 6.5 PV will close up sooner. That's why I feel pretty confident about suggesting an 8.5 PV. :D |
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Quote:
|
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
I ordered the new 8.5pv today along with a set of 74 jets for the front. If the 74's are too rich, then it's still ok 'cause I can use them next year when I finally hook up my nitrous. I'll need to jet up for that anyway.
PKRWUD, the 15hg I have at idle IS when it's in park. |
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
I just check my vacuum reading again. It's close enough to call 17hg in park and between 14-15hg in gear. A 7.5 valve is what's called for, according to Holley but an 8.5 will give me a slightly earlier opening and later closing.
It won't be until October when I get back to the track but you can bet I'll be back here with the results when I find out! Hopefully, it IS THIS simple...after all this time! |
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Why would you need to jet it richer for N20?
|
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
It's recommended that you jet up when you use nitrous as a precaution against a lean fuel/nitrous mixture. It's better to be slightly richer, rather than lean when running nitrous. A lean fuel/nitrous ratio is what melts pistons and all that other good stuff you don't want to happen.
|
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Quote:
#1. Don't GIVE any advice. #2. Don't TAKE any. Think about that for a few, you'll "get it"........... OK, now I'm gonna break Rule #1. Leave the carb alone if you're running a plate system. :rolleyes: |
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Quote:
|
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Quote:
|
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Ya have to start thinking of carb and N2O as two different systems, cuz THEY ARE!
If the car is runnining "OK" leave the damn carb alone. Change spark plugs, adjust base timing, and let her rip. N2O plate will take care of itself. Please refer to the first 2 nitrous rules of this thread. |
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
OK, now that I don't have so much beer in me :eek: , I can clarify that last statement! LOL
All I meant was the carb should be tuned seperate from the nitrous system. Get the carb setup right first, then hit the spray. If you want to run the carb a little fat, that's fine. A little insurance never hurts. But remember one of my rules: "Fat is safe, but Lean is Fast!" (Maybe I should start righting these down? LOL) Then all you have to do is fire up the nitrous plate, and if the thing gets PIG fat, lean up the plate a little, but leave the carb alone. Same story for the lean direction. If you have problems on the spray, tune the plate, not the carb. Dammit! I broke rule #1 again, didn't I? LMAO :D |
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Quote:
This was kind of one of our rules from last night, but I won’t elaborate right now. :D Ryan |
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Brian
Is this why you're going for the 4-corner idle circuit? You know that you can take the power valve out completely and just square jet the thing and it'll run fine. So long as you run the power valve you have to use a 10-Point spread in the jets. Seems simpler to me to remove the PV. Denny@JDS Induction Products |
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
No, that's not why I want 4 corner idle. I think I'm running rich at idle(burning eyes syndrome) and my jetting isn't overly rich either(72/80).
As far as removing the PV, I don't want to do that because I still drive this on the street and was told that wouldn't be a good idea because I would be rich ALL the time. |
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Brian
It was just a thought I didn't know you still drove it on the street - yes then it is best to change over to the 4-corner and 2 power valves the engine will run a bunch cleaner. When I convert Holleys to 4-corner I always use 3310 metering plates. I don't have the part # handy but its in their parts book. That overly rich condition is common for Holleys The main jet has nothing to do with the idle circuit and only partially controls the intermediate transfer slot just above the the idle hole in the base-plate. I'm assuming that you have a 4779-2 750 It doesn't have holes drilled in the butterflyes and to get it to idle you have to turn the RPM screw about 3 to 5 turns to get idle speed. If that is correct then with the blades open that far the boosters are trying to dribble causeing the rich idle. To find out - hold the throttle lever tight against its stop (you might want to have someone help you with this) and unscrew the adjustment until it is completely closed - then turn the screw in 2 turns - Start the car and see if it will idle there out of gear - if not then you are going to have to drill holes in the butterflyes to conpensate for the added air/fuel - Of course this may not be the problem at all! It could be something internal ???? At this point all we can do is make suggestions Denny@JDS Induction Products |
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Burning eye syndrome is usually "Lean" not rich.
|
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Head Doctor, I can't do that test for you because I already have the carb. off ready to be shipped out for the 4 corner idle to be done. Should I also tell the guy to drill 3/32 holes in the butterflies while he has it or will the 4 corner idle negate the need to do that?
I don't remember, offhand, without looking but I "think" it is a 4779-2 model. I sort of recall it taking quit a few turns to get it to idle speed when I first hooked it up. Will it hurt to have the butterflies drilled if it doesn't really need it, although, I don't think it would pass that test you just mentioned I don't think 2 turns would be anywhere near enough to get it to idle clean, which, right now is about 1000rpms. I don't know if that's normal or not though(1000rpms to idle clean) |
Re: Could it be THIS simple?
Quote:
Ryan |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:56 AM. |