|
Ok, here's my .02(again) A buddy of mine the same funked up problem. He had a 1987 4 banger escort with about 130k on it. He started having the same problem, except his car would not only stall, or start, but would EAT wheel bearings like fudge brownies!! Turned out to be the engine and chassis ground. Check it now!!! http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif
|
Good job.
22 - BP sensor out of test range. The guy probably just hooked up the BAP line to the MAP sensor. Get a BAP sensor. 53 - TP Circuit above maximum voltage. Check your TPS voltage. It should be .95 V or so at closed throttle and move up to 4.6 V at WOT. No skips or flat spots as you move the throttle slowly from closed throttle to WOT. 54 - ACT sensor circuit open. You need one hooked up. 35 - PFE or EVP circuit above maximum voltage. Has your EGR valve been removed? If it has, you at least need an EGR valve position sensor hooked up to prevent the computer from staying in open loop mode. 67 - Neutral/drive switch open. This is only a problem if you have the cruise control on and knock the shifter out of gear. The engine will just start reving at the rev limit. 81 - Air management 2 circuit failure I'd guess that this is why moving the MAF around helped the engine get started. Check your wires to see if there is a bad one. 82 - Air management 1 circuit failure See above. 85 - Canister Purge circuit failure Not a big deal. 95 - Fuel pump secondary circuit failure - ECA to ground This could explain your code reading problems and the necessity to ground your code reader to the negative battery terminal. 51 - ECT/ACT reads -40 degrees or circuit open. You need an ECT hooked up. 52 - Power steering pressure switch open Hmm, now that I've looked at all of these again and can see the pattern, my guess is that you have a loose ground wire somewhere. Just in case you want to verify each sensor, here are a couple pictures to aid with sensor location. Most of those sensors are after those two big connectors that are normally mounted on the back of the intake. They're the connectors that go to all of the fuel injectors. I'd start checking there. Make sure that they didn't come unplugged. http://people.mn.mediaone.net/jimber...ideSensors.jpg http://people.mn.mediaone.net/jimber...ideSensors.jpg ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible [This message has been edited by jimberg (edited 08-17-2001).] |
I'll check the sensors, but since both of you said "ground wires", I think that may be the first place to start. The only thing about that is when I got the car, the grounding strap from the back of the head to the firewall was frayed, so I went out and got a huge new grounding strap and put it on. Are there other places I should check? There's no telling what little things were done during the engine swap by the previous owner. The motor itself isn't even a year old yet. I'd guess it probably has about 5000 miles on it. Thanks a million gents, I appreciate it.
Dave |
I'd start at the two big connectors behind the intake. If you don't find anything there than start under the dash by the computer. I hate electrical problems.
------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible |
Last night, while I was playin around trying to get codes, I was under the dash below the steering wheel and I saw two plugs that were not connected to anything. One was a regular Ford connector, much like the one that goes to the evaporative emissions cannister, and the other one was a white harness. It was rectangular shaped and was an eight-pin straight female connector. Any idea what the heck that is? I didn't see anywhere to connect either of these under there.
|
Quote:
.dave |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:47 PM. |