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Old 04-02-2002, 03:52 PM   #1
ultraflo
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Default Danny Bee belt drive install (pic)

The belt drive was a relatively simple install and will allow me to mess with my cam degrees (+/- 2*)to adj. my power band. As far as piston to valve clearance goes, when we checked it with clay I had around an 1/8'' gap; which, I believe should be plenty (PKRWUD?)...

When I installed the cam to Ultradyne's spec, I came up with 4* advanced. I wish I would have written down all the steps I went through when degreeing the cam. It was two years ago and if I were to do it again I'd have to bust out the instructions and cam degree kit. Anyhow, I went through the process several times to make sure it was correct, checked valvetrain geometry, ordered custom length pushrods from Smith Bros., etc.

I'm not the brightest individual, though I do have the capacity to piddle with this stuff and learn from mistakes along the way...

Wish me luck...

Thanks guys!!!

Oh, advancing the cam adj. your powerband lower in the rpm range and retarding the cam adj. the powerband higher in the rpm range (just make sure you got plenty of piston to valve clearance!!)

Later

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Last edited by ultraflo; 04-03-2002 at 12:40 PM..
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Old 04-02-2002, 04:13 PM   #2
PKRWUD
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Default Re: Danny Bee belt drive install (pic)

Quote:
Originally posted by ultraflo
As far as piston to valve clearance goes, when we checked it with clay I had around an 1/8'' gap; which, I believe should be plenty (PKRWUD?)...
1/8" = .125"

Your's should never be less than .080", and .100" would be even better. .125" is fine.

BTW, NICE set-up! I've always been a gear drive man, but only because I've never tried a belt drive. One day soon.

Take care,
-Chris
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Old 04-02-2002, 04:24 PM   #3
ultraflo
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Default

Thanks!

I was under the impression that a gear drive "robs" horsepower?

After installing the belt drive and all of its NICE parts, I got to thinking the same about it...

Not so, said the old man (he keeps me in check on all of the mechanical stuff, as far as EFI he's lost)

The difference in price is quite obvious; though, I have never had one, had the dough, and figured what the hell - I'll try it out!!

Don't have to worry about any mustang drag racing classes anyhow because I started my long rod 306 before the NMRA exploded with all of its classes (those boys got their **** together)

The 5.4 rods eliminate me from any class I would be competitive in... Oh, well! I can't tour the country anyhow, and don't have a team or pit crew. Just like to piddle around and try to have some fun once in awhile!
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Old 04-02-2002, 08:46 PM   #4
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Default just another pic...

I'm half tempted to start a webpage, though I don't know jack about doing so...

anyway, just another pic

In this one you can see the port work done on the Edel. RPMs by my dad, the titanium 10* retainers and locks, Crower 1.7s, SVO girdle, and Meziere water pump...



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Last edited by ultraflo; 04-03-2002 at 03:14 AM..
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Old 04-03-2002, 01:05 AM   #5
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Default

Cool pics. I wish I had one of those. I also like the comp rockers.
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Old 04-03-2002, 02:04 AM   #6
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Default started a homepage...

Thanks Wade... (the rockers are by Crower)

I realized I could setup a homepage through this site and got started (and have no idea what I got myself into as usual )

I have managed to make a little progress, though still no posted pics at this time. I'm still working on it...

Here's a shot of the R302...


I'm getting the hang of this (thanks Darius!!!)

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Last edited by ultraflo; 04-03-2002 at 03:18 AM..
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Old 04-03-2002, 03:52 AM   #7
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My bad, they look like the comp chromoly(sp.) rockers.

I love that Jerico. What bellhousing do you use for that. The Jerico looks like a ford toploader case (kind of) is it the same bolt patern as the top loader,tremec, and richmond?
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Old 04-03-2002, 12:11 PM   #8
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No prob...

Jerico offers SO many options as far as gearing and mounting patterns (Ford, Chevy, Chrysler). The Jerico I will be running will bolt right up to the same Lakewood bellhousing I used with my Tremec 3550, which as you mentioned is the top-loader config.

The case and tailshaft are made out of magnesium and the straight-cut gears are designed for the shock loads of drag racing. Upshift only (I wonder how I'll do on the street)...

Wade, about the fuel lines, when Y'd off before and after the fuel rails, did you go -8 into two -6? Is that what Aeromotive recommends? Thanks for the info, I'll probably get started on that later today or sometime this weekend.

I still have to finish installing the TRZ anti-roll bar...



Along with the many other tasks at hand! Later
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Last edited by ultraflo; 04-03-2002 at 12:19 PM..
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Old 04-04-2002, 12:06 AM   #9
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I used -8 to the rails after the y, and to the regulater.
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Old 04-04-2002, 12:09 AM   #10
ultraflo
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Default

Thanks again Wade!!

I appreciate it
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