yeah, they'll have what you need to hook up the gauges for the most part, except for fuel pressure gauges. Just got my silver face liquid filled guages in today
Fuel Pressure - I need to get an isolator and #4 a/n braided steel lines.
Oil Pressure - comes with capillary tubing, but I'm going to see if they have some sexy braided stuff
Oil Temp - Just modified my pan to fit the probe which comes with capillary tubing. (detail below)
Water Temp - comes with capillary tubing
Vaccum Gauge - comes with capillary tubing - not worried about braded stuff here, I;ll just run a hose to where the capillary tubing runs out of the fire wall.
Okay, this is how I hooked up my oil temp gauge, without the benefit of brazing the fitting to the pan.
1. Went and bought;
a.7/8" dewalt metal drill bit
b.Jb Industro Weld (5000 psi/600 degree epoxy), I figure anything less than 300 degrees would melt and end up someplace important, screwing up my rather expensive new hardware
c. washer
d. nut
4. Since it was the old pan off of my last motor (a milodon unit). I washed the whole thing down in laquer thinner
3. I center punched where I wanted the fitting to go into the pan. then began progressively drilling my way up in bit size until I got to the 7/8" bit. then I cleaned up the hole (driver's side about an 1-1/2 up the side of the pan)
4. Screwed in the fitting provided by autometer
5. mixed up the JB weld and liberally coated one side of the washer. next I applied the washer to the fitting on the insiade of the pan. Then I put the nut on and ran it down until it was tight. Finally I cleaned things up and lapped some of the JB weld over on to the threads to lock the nut into place.
6. Back on the outside I ran a bead of the JB weld around the fitting and worked it up the hex portion and around the base till it formed an area about the size of the washer inside the pan (looks right must be right
).
7. I'm waiting for the epoxy to cure (15 hours) then I'll perform a leak test and see if things are kewl (not metion putting 5 quarts into the pan and seeing if I set the probe hieght just right.) My rational for putting it just a little bit higher than normal. I figure the hot oil cooming off the engine and daining down at the top will generate a higher temp reading. From what I understand though, oil temps are actually about 30 to 40 degrees higher at the bearing?