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08-25-2001, 04:09 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Stuart, FL, US
Posts: 147
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Do you really want to powershift?
I have never really power shifted my car and noticed a better time in my ET, but then again, I haven't done it too much. The reason why I don't is because I am not sure of how much wear it puts on the clutch\tranny. Does it put a lot of strees on them or not? While we are asking, how many of you out there have gotten a better time or two from regular shifting to power shifting?
------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
08-25-2001, 04:31 PM | #2 |
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A properly executed powershift makes a big difference. I don't have any track times to back it up, but I can certainly use my races on the street to back it up.
If a race is close, I'll powershift. I don't lose ANY ground at all when I shift, in some cases I gain ground on my opponent. If I just shift fast, I fall back a few feet. |
08-25-2001, 05:37 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Walker, MI, USA
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Well it is alot harder on the car But I still do it and Like Unit said.
------------------ 14.28@103.0 Engine: Steal Mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, Home ported Lower Intake, No power steering, No A/C Drive Train: 3.55, World Class T-5, NOW it is time for Real power STUFF I Have and will put on after I get everthing: Mac cold intake, 70MM TB, Valve covers (COOL ONES)255 Fuel pump. Next to get: rocker arms,Cam,TFS Heads,Injectors 26,Holley intake, What might I need??? |
08-25-2001, 06:32 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Stuart, FL, US
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I did not know there was more than 1 way to power shift. What is a "properly executed powershift?" I just keep my gas pedal to the floor while shifting at the same RPMs and releasing clutch at the same times as well.
------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
08-25-2001, 06:41 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 31
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Here's a little research I did on powershifting a while back:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthrea...=powershifting I have gained a ton of confidence in races since I started powershifting. I ran 14.4 - 14.7 before powershifting, then I went back and made a 14.1 on my first run powershifting. There was room for improvement but that was the only run I got in that night. In the eight, I usually ran 9.5; powershifting netted consistent 9.1s. But I have a TKO. |
08-25-2001, 08:07 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: May 1999
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Powershifting won't make a difference T-5 or TKO. The powershift is hard on syncronizers, not gears.
In a properly executed powershift your rpms should only climb maybe 300rpm. It should be all and done in a split second. If you do it to slow, you'll be basically dropping the tranny, which can cause the wheels to break loose easier. The longer you take, the longer you aren't accelerating as well. |
08-25-2001, 10:38 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin
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For what it is worth, I raced at Great Lakes Dragaway again on August 16. My timing is turned downn to 10 degrees. I just added the Home Depot ram air and got rid of the front sway bar. I thought I would be in the 14's but timing is everything, I guess. My best for my 'vert is a 15.1.
Honestly, If you don't know of anyone to help you swap your clutch out when it goes bad then sc**W it! You need a heavy duty clutch cable to confidently powershift like that. My Centerforce and FMS kit holds up strong all the time. It seems as though the car runs better at high rpm's too. Get a good clutch and quadrant kit! ------------------ '91 LX convertible , T-5, Centerforce Dual Friction, FMS adjustable cable w/quadrant, 3:55's(not installed yet), ported/polished/milled E7 heads, 1.6rr, 1.94/1.60 stainless valves, March Performance Pulleys and A/C Eliminator, short belt, Home Depot ram air, K&N, battery in trunk, glasspacks w/turndowns, 225/50/16 Re 730's |
08-25-2001, 11:41 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa
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True, true, i have a brand new hd fms clutch, but my stock cable is worn, i need a quadrant to take advantage of my nice new clutch, i went 14.1 @98 last week without powershifting, replacing my t-5 was no fun nor did my wallet like it, besides my little tires break loose when i powershift, and it only gives me about a tenth, not worth a t-5, but streetracing is different
------------------ 90 lx coupe: 5spd, 177k miles, steeda water pump pulley, Mac coldair fenderwell, Mac h-pipe, supercoil, ADS chip, 160 stat, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs. Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks) Best mph: 98.17 Best 60': 1.9607 next mods:4.10's, slicks. |
08-26-2001, 06:37 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Stuart, FL, US
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So you all are basically saying don't try it on a stock T-5? That means stock tranny, stock clutch, stock cable? OK!! Ruining my clutch/tranny is never worth a tenth to me, but a race...well it depends on the beneiftis of the win.
While we are addressing shifts with this tranny, lets talk about launching. Now I already had a previous topic on launching a bit back and the advice that was delivered to me was different from what I was doing. I went out last night to try it out formally. Left heel on brake, left toes on clutch. Let out clutch 1/2 to 1/4 way and bring gas to 3k. The clutch should grip and start to move the car, but with brake pressed it will not move. When you want to go, you simply let go out the brake and let out clutch. Well, hmm, in a race this is hard to setup quickly, but i guess thats cuz im not used to it. NOW THE POTENTIAL PROBLEM...as I tried this technique, I noticed i was pretty much wearing the clutch. That doesnt seem like a good idea. Now I didnt smell any burnt clutch, but that was because I didnt want to keep doing it think it WOULD burn it eventually. ANyhow, am i doing it right? Should I worry about anything? ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
08-26-2001, 07:35 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,575
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No, for launching its left foot on the clutch and right heel on brake with your right tip toe on the gas. Use your toe to rev, when you are ready to go drop the clutch and brake at the same time.
------------------ 87 GT, Cobra R's,GT-40 heads,Crane 2031,1.7's, Edelbrock intake, long tubes,BBK cold air, Mass air,pulleys,Pro 5.0, King Cobra,Lakewood Lift Bars,50/50's,subframes, 4.10's. Best time 12.759 Best MPH 106.79 Best 60' 1.695 Visit my site at: http://www.geocities.com/cobrar93_2000/MyPage.html |
08-26-2001, 09:17 PM | #11 |
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Im not trying to bust your balls..believe me, but a with all your mods, all you can muster is a mid 14!!??
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08-27-2001, 12:12 AM | #12 |
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Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 5,246
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I powershifted my 88GT for a couple years with no related problems. It had 130k when I sold it.
I powershifted my 87GT for over a year before the tranny went out (I was actually being really nice to it at the time), in an unrelated deal. Both were totally stock driveline setups. (Clutch, quad, tranny, shifter) Powershifting wears the syncros in the tranny. It doesn't hurt the gears, and as long as your clutch is adjusted properly, you shouldn't have any problems occationally powershifting. |
08-27-2001, 02:02 AM | #13 |
gear banger
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 1,144
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All this talk is about powershifting is pumping me up. I can't wait to try my new pro shifted tremec at the track.
------------------ NA 347 W/ stage 2 Canfield heads, out of the box Victor 5.0 intake, solid roller cam, Aeromotive fuel system. MY CAR http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1288 [This message has been edited by WADS56 (edited 08-27-2001).] |
08-30-2001, 09:24 PM | #14 |
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Join Date: Sep 1998
Posts: 495
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I have power shifted just about every stick car i've ever driven at some point. I have never broken a trans. As for the stock T5, I even borrowed a 100K+ trans with no reverse (I was trying to figure out if a driveline vibration was the trans) & 5k launched & power shifted all night (like 8 passes) 1.5* 60ft & all runs mid 11's spraying the 4hit out of & couldn't break it.
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08-30-2001, 09:35 PM | #15 |
Tubbed and Juiced
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,861
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Once you power-shift, you'll never go back! =P LoL. Doh! No more shifting for me. =( But in my opinion an auto. is faster, more consistent..but powershifting is a great feeling.
------------------ 1989 GT, 3:55's, full exhaust, 4 in. hood, Pro 5.0, All parts for sale now. 2000 Camaro SS-A4 =P 1989 Chevy S-10, EX. Cab-383(500+hp on motor), trick flow heads, trick flow pistons, etc... autometer phantom gauges, "built" 700R4, roll cage, lexan back window, corbeau seats, R.H.S. 5 harnesses, Fuel cell, convo pro wheels, 15x14's with 29x18.5 M/T'S on back, 15x4's on front, nitrous, and so much more! http://www.geocities.com/i8urvpr/JM.html |
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