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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 381
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![]() Hello,
Done some swapping around with parts...but here is the end result... MAC Pro Chamber MAC Cat-Back Exhaust MAC Cold Air Intake BBK Shorties 3.73 Gears Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and lower...) E303 Cam Granetelli Mass Air Flow Sensor Timing at 16* Some other suspension stuff... Any ideas what my ETs should be on drag radials? normal street tires? Just out of curiousity...what would be a guess at 0-60?! Thanks! DoranW
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What I have: 1990 Red Mustang 5.0 LX: [BBK X-Pipe]-[MAC Cat-Back Exhaust] [MAC Cold Air Intake]-[BBK Equal Shorties] [3.55 Gears]-[Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and Lower] [E-303 Cam]-[Granetelli Mass Air Flow Sensor] [Front and rear sway bars]-[New black carpet and seats.] [Adjustable Fuel Regulator]-[T5 Conversion w/ K. Cobra Clutch/Hurst STS] [Cobra Throttle Body]-[130A Alt. Conversion] Thinking about: Aftermarket Heads! Vortech A-Trim |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 381
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![]() Any guesses, comments, etc?
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Staging lane
Posts: 4,337
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![]() I would say 14.0 - 14.3 if you still have stock heads.
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92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer |
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#4 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() If its a T-5 car and you are a good driver and you can manage a good 60ft time then I'd bet you'll be in the high 13's.
Now if its an AOD then thats a different story.
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 381
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![]() it is an AOD
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#6 |
DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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![]() Yeah, for that AOD, you're going to need some serious work. I've got a good bit done to my car, and you can see by my sig that I'm trying hard to get into the 13's....of course, I'm at significant elevation, and I've been plagued by some tuning and tranny problems.
For an AOD to run like it should, you need to invest in a quality torque converter from the likes of Precision Industries, Performance Automatic, or Lentech. Get a stall speed of around 2500-2800, and you'll be absolutely thrilled at the difference it makes. Of course, decent converters go from $500-$800. Also, in order to correct that horrible shifting of the stock AOD, you need in the very least a quality shift kit (Transgo and Baumann make nice kits). These kits generally run at or below $100, and they'll give you great shifts on the street and strip making your car much more enjoyable to drive. If you've got the spare change, go all the way and get a Lentech valve body. These units allow fully manual shifting without the AOD shuffle and without having to anticipate shifts by 500 rpm. The shifts are callibrated specifically for your combo and your preference, and OD is engaged electrically via a toggle switch. I ordered mine yesterday ($414 delivered + the wiring and toggle switch which you can pick up at Radioshack). On top of these, get a tranny cooler to help you tranny live a bit longer. With these mods, your AOD will jump off the line quicker than most 5-speeds (who are typically spinning like crazy), and it will be more consistant than any stick driver. Of course, if all of this sounds like a hassle and you like stick shifts, pool your resources and swap a 5-speed if that's what you want. --nathan
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'91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT |
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#7 |
Conservative Individualist
Join Date: May 1997
Location: Wherever I need to be
Posts: 7,487
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![]() Sonics:
With your aftermarket intake and exhaust you're pulling lots of air in and out of the engine but the stock heads aren't making the best use of it In addition (as Nathan correctly stated) the AOD is another et killer that only a shift kit and a looser converter can help compensate for. I would guess mid 14's as your current et with the mods listed. |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 381
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![]() Ughh...a 5-speed is what I really want...Unfortunately, I heard for the swap it would be over 2 grand (for new, performance parts...like a T-5z or a Tremec).
Can't spend the money right now because I am saving for up to buy a house this summer. (Have to get it before October...). So many decisions... ![]()
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What I have: 1990 Red Mustang 5.0 LX: [BBK X-Pipe]-[MAC Cat-Back Exhaust] [MAC Cold Air Intake]-[BBK Equal Shorties] [3.55 Gears]-[Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and Lower] [E-303 Cam]-[Granetelli Mass Air Flow Sensor] [Front and rear sway bars]-[New black carpet and seats.] [Adjustable Fuel Regulator]-[T5 Conversion w/ K. Cobra Clutch/Hurst STS] [Cobra Throttle Body]-[130A Alt. Conversion] Thinking about: Aftermarket Heads! Vortech A-Trim |
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#9 |
Resident Redneck
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cecil County, MD
Posts: 165
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![]() I would say that your car with traction and as little weight as possible could go high 13's. Have a little less than a quarter tank of gas and take the spare out and anything else you can think off. With my car I went 14.2 @ 98 with a 2.1 60'. It had headers, off road H pipe, 2 chamber flows, CAI, 3.73's, baumann shift kit, and 15* timming. It weighed about 3680 with me in it, I know your car is lighter. With a good 60' you should be able to pull some nice #'s off. Good luck.
-Billy
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95' GT: 306, XL Ross Pistons, Ultra Lite H-beam Rods, Forged Scat Crank, 28oz Romac, 28oz JW flexplate, FTI ported RPM II intake, FTI ported AFR 165's, FTI custom cam, 75mm BBK Throttle body, 80mm Pro-M, 4800 PI stall, PA Super Comp AODE, Strange 33 spline race axles, Strange ultra lite spool, Motive lite 4.30's, Strange rear race brakes, Mega bite seniors, double adjustable uppers w/spherical bushings, Racecraft anti-roll bar, LPW rear end girdle, Metco d/s loop, A9L conversion, AFM PMS |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 381
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![]() Well...I will cry if run a mid 14
![]() My car weighs about 2820 stock...and I weigh about 200 lbs. Plus I will be removing my passenger seat, spare tire, and back bench (just the...part you sit on.) So I am thinking total weight would be around 2900 with me in it (2820 - ~120 + 200). If I can break into the 13s I will be really happy, but if I run a mid 14, I would be dissapointed ![]() Any idea what my 0-60 should be? Just for the sake of curiousity... Thanks, DoranW
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What I have: 1990 Red Mustang 5.0 LX: [BBK X-Pipe]-[MAC Cat-Back Exhaust] [MAC Cold Air Intake]-[BBK Equal Shorties] [3.55 Gears]-[Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and Lower] [E-303 Cam]-[Granetelli Mass Air Flow Sensor] [Front and rear sway bars]-[New black carpet and seats.] [Adjustable Fuel Regulator]-[T5 Conversion w/ K. Cobra Clutch/Hurst STS] [Cobra Throttle Body]-[130A Alt. Conversion] Thinking about: Aftermarket Heads! Vortech A-Trim |
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#11 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() just to give you an idea of what a stock AOD'd modded stang will do...
There was a guy in a 91 GT AOD (completely stock tranny) with TFS heads, E303, GT40 intake and 3.73's at the track i was at last saturday. He was running about the same that I was that day which was mid to low 13's on BFG drag radials. You really need to get a good converter and valve body or trash that AOD and throw a T-5 in there. Its not that expensive at all to do if you do the work yourself. I did it for a whopping ~$200 (after selling the AOD) With a brand new T-5, you're probably looking at about $1300 minus some cash if you can sell your AOD (dont blow it up if you decide to go this route! ![]()
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 381
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![]() My tranny is in perfect condition...although it has ~110k miles on it. I showed it to my mechanic and he didn't believe that it had that many miles (may have been replaced...).
The point is...I have no idea how many miles on it, and I can only assume it is 110k, and who would want to buy an auto with that many miles. Also, I would want a strong T-5 so I wouldn't have to replace it later...and it looks like the Tremec alone is $1300...not including all the other stuff you need... One last thing. Right now I am running Michelin Pilots...How much would it cost to get slicks or some drag radials? (Preferably fitting on my stock 15" 'pie tin' rims...) Any ideas? Thanks, DoranW
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What I have: 1990 Red Mustang 5.0 LX: [BBK X-Pipe]-[MAC Cat-Back Exhaust] [MAC Cold Air Intake]-[BBK Equal Shorties] [3.55 Gears]-[Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and Lower] [E-303 Cam]-[Granetelli Mass Air Flow Sensor] [Front and rear sway bars]-[New black carpet and seats.] [Adjustable Fuel Regulator]-[T5 Conversion w/ K. Cobra Clutch/Hurst STS] [Cobra Throttle Body]-[130A Alt. Conversion] Thinking about: Aftermarket Heads! Vortech A-Trim |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: San Jose, California USA
Posts: 275
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![]() How did you get your car to weigh 2820?? A stock GT weighs about 3250-3300 and LX 3050-3200 or so, depending on options and tranny (AOD is heavier). Also, Im not including verts...
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1993 Grabber Blue Mustang GT Trick Flow Heads, Street Heat intake, 3/8in spacer, E303, TFS 1.7rr & 6.75 pushrods, Holley 190lph fuel pump, 24# injectors & sample tube, SVO timing chain, Aeromotive AFPR, 180* t-stat, 2 5/8 Auto Meter mech fuel pressure gauge, K&N, March Ram Air & Pullies, 73mm C&L MAF, Edelbrock 65mm TB & EGR, 1 5/8in Equal Length Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2in H-Pipe w/hi-flow cats & Flowmaster 2 1/2in Cat-Back Exhaust, FlowTech Cut-Outs, Nitto DR's, 3.73 gears, FMS Aluminum DriveShaft, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Pro-Shift Lite, 8.5mm MSD Super Cunductor Plug Wires, PowerSlot rotors, PowerMaster 140amp Alt., LX lights, Cobra R hood w/SVO scoop, Saleen spoiler, Cobra Bumper, 3in chrome tips. |
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 381
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![]() Argh...You are right. I was looking at the curb weight for a non-5oh LX. My car is closer to 3100 lbs (- ~120)
![]() Doh! Thank you for the correction (sorta ![]() ![]() Wish I had a 5-speed ![]() Thanks, DoranW
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What I have: 1990 Red Mustang 5.0 LX: [BBK X-Pipe]-[MAC Cat-Back Exhaust] [MAC Cold Air Intake]-[BBK Equal Shorties] [3.55 Gears]-[Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and Lower] [E-303 Cam]-[Granetelli Mass Air Flow Sensor] [Front and rear sway bars]-[New black carpet and seats.] [Adjustable Fuel Regulator]-[T5 Conversion w/ K. Cobra Clutch/Hurst STS] [Cobra Throttle Body]-[130A Alt. Conversion] Thinking about: Aftermarket Heads! Vortech A-Trim |
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#15 |
DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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![]() Sonic,
Remember, this is the first time you've run the car at the track. Don't be too disappointed with higher numbers. It takes time to get it all right...the right shift rpm, the right burn out, the right launch rpm. The track is way different than the street. The first run I ever made was something like a 14.6 (all mods done). I was able to shave several tenths off of that with sheer driving. Also, weather is a factor. Keep that stuff in mind and don't drive your car into a ditch if it doesn't run like you want it to the first time. Remember, modding cars and racing cars are both learning processes. The guys who do it well have likely done it many times, and at some point, they did it poorly. Learn from what you do. Keep records of the atmospheric conditions on your slips. Don't worry, it will take time, but you will get your car where you want it to be. --nathan
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'91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT |
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#16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 102
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![]() If I were you I would get a Lentech street terminator VB. it is so much better than a shift kit. I did all of the free mods to my friends AOD notch and it wound up running 14.59 at 95 with stock 2.73 gears. It was at best a low 16 sec car before this because it had never had a tuneup in 130,000 miles. Remove the passenger seat and spare tire, ice the intake until it's very cold to the touch, get a 70 1/2 inch dayco polycog 6 rib short belt (diagrams are on the net on how to bypass the ps pump at the track) and do the 1-3-1 shuffle. Your heads are holding you back. I see no problem of you running high 13's. I did mid 13's with a stock exaust, slipping tranny, 2 galled cylinders (causing it to injest massive ammounts of oil), leaving at idle because of burned up t-lok with a temp of 90 and dewpoint of 73. My mph was 104.57. If I can do that with that many problems I see no problem for you hitting high 13's.
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1990 5.0 lx aod best 1/4: 13.65 at 104.57 on bad shortblock |
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#17 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 381
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![]() What is this Lentech Street Terminator VB?
Also, this is what I just ran: 15.02 @ 92.83 mph 60' ~ 2.3 This is with: 3.55 gears 8* timing MAC Cat-Back New Mass Air Flow Sensor MAC Cold Air Intake Next time it will be: 3.73 Gears 15* timing MAC Cat-Back New Mass Air Flow MAC Cold Air Intake BBK Headers Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and Lower) E303 Cam Nitto Drad Radials I think that is it. (and MAYBE a Lentech Street Terminator VB...whenever I find out what it is ![]() LATE this summer I MIGHT do heads. Hoping for the best out of this combination. Any ideas on what I should run on this (stock heads). Thanks, DoranW
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What I have: 1990 Red Mustang 5.0 LX: [BBK X-Pipe]-[MAC Cat-Back Exhaust] [MAC Cold Air Intake]-[BBK Equal Shorties] [3.55 Gears]-[Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and Lower] [E-303 Cam]-[Granetelli Mass Air Flow Sensor] [Front and rear sway bars]-[New black carpet and seats.] [Adjustable Fuel Regulator]-[T5 Conversion w/ K. Cobra Clutch/Hurst STS] [Cobra Throttle Body]-[130A Alt. Conversion] Thinking about: Aftermarket Heads! Vortech A-Trim |
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#18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Sugar Land, Tx USA
Posts: 478
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![]() I'm guessing a low 14 for you if u can hookup good and weather conditions are good... look at my sig for my times and I have less mods than u... although 4:10's would help you out a lot more than 3:73's... so if you haven't bought them yet go with 4:10's... oh and GET SOME PULLEYS.
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92 AOD GT, K&N, ram air, pulleys, 2 ch. flowmasters, 4:10's, shift kit, 1 5/8 mac longtubes and offroad hpipe 14.249 @ 97.34 Lakewood 90/10's and 50/50's |
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#19 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 381
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![]() Quote:
![]() What I really want is a 5-speed and heads and a supercharger....But who doesn't? Thanks, DoranW
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What I have: 1990 Red Mustang 5.0 LX: [BBK X-Pipe]-[MAC Cat-Back Exhaust] [MAC Cold Air Intake]-[BBK Equal Shorties] [3.55 Gears]-[Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper and Lower] [E-303 Cam]-[Granetelli Mass Air Flow Sensor] [Front and rear sway bars]-[New black carpet and seats.] [Adjustable Fuel Regulator]-[T5 Conversion w/ K. Cobra Clutch/Hurst STS] [Cobra Throttle Body]-[130A Alt. Conversion] Thinking about: Aftermarket Heads! Vortech A-Trim |
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#20 |
Resident Redneck
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cecil County, MD
Posts: 165
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![]() Those times aren't that bad considering you had a bad 60' time. With traction and all the mods you plan on doing you should be able to get a 13.8-13.9 out of your car. I would also look into an off road H pipe and install that when you do the headers. You will notice a difference. If you have emissions testing where you live, just keep your stock H pipe and bolt it on when you have to get tested. Thats what I do, you get good at changing the pipes after you have done it acouple of times. You also might want to look into a stall converter for your tranny. They make a huge difference with automatic cars. Hope this helps you. Good luck at the track.
-Billy
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95' GT: 306, XL Ross Pistons, Ultra Lite H-beam Rods, Forged Scat Crank, 28oz Romac, 28oz JW flexplate, FTI ported RPM II intake, FTI ported AFR 165's, FTI custom cam, 75mm BBK Throttle body, 80mm Pro-M, 4800 PI stall, PA Super Comp AODE, Strange 33 spline race axles, Strange ultra lite spool, Motive lite 4.30's, Strange rear race brakes, Mega bite seniors, double adjustable uppers w/spherical bushings, Racecraft anti-roll bar, LPW rear end girdle, Metco d/s loop, A9L conversion, AFM PMS |
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