Door sag and Hinge pins

PeTr0 · 04-27-2001, 12:43 PM

Ok my door sags, but just a little bit and it is rubbing against the fender. I think i have to replace the hinge pins and bushings on this door. Any tips for a good job? Do i just cut the old pins? do i have to drill out the holes to install the new bushings. I need instructions please if you have them fax them to me...leave a message.

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Red 1993 Gt- flowmasters,BBK Shortie Headers, BBK Hi-Flow H-Pipe, BBK cold air induction w/K&N, Pro 5.0 shifer, 130 amp alt., underdrives,pioneer cd player and kicker component speakers, Kenwood Excelon amp, 2 12" subs in the hatch,firehawk sz50 all around, timing bumped to 13 deg., ADS Superchip, and mobil 1 oil lubing the 302.

RAINSTANG · 04-27-2001, 03:44 PM

I can't remember which issue but Mustang 5.0 did an article on replacing the pins awhile ago. If I remember correctly you just have to support the door with jack stands or a floor jack, knock the top of the pins off and drive them out with a punch. My drivers side is starting to sag just a teeny bit but I'm going to the body shop. This is not something I would risk F-ing up.

jimberg · 04-27-2001, 08:19 PM

I did this once. You just grind the top of the pins off. Drive them down with a punch. Remove the old bushings. Put new busings in. Then insert new hinge pins and cotter pins. I was stuck using some crappy tool and it took a long time. My guess is that a Dremel tool and cut-off wheel would work best for removing the top of the pin. Air hammer could work, too, but leaves more potential for a mishap.

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351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

Mr 5 0 · 04-27-2001, 08:24 PM

You have to cut the old pins in half, they don't just 'punch out' as the tops are flattened. A high speed drill makes it fairly easy, although it takes some time.

Use a floor jack (or stands) to support the door and have a friend help hold it in place when you get each pin out, as the door will move and you can't get the old pin out and install the new pin and bushings while trying to hold the door. Space is tight in there, too.

I did this in my buddy's shop last year and it took a good hour or so, even with a high-speed drill and his (experienced) help.
Probably a $50 - $60. job at a body shop.

Came out fine; no more sag and no problems.
I got the repair kit from Mustangs Unlimited.

[This message has been edited by Mr 5 0 (edited 04-27-2001).]

jimberg · 04-28-2001, 07:36 AM

Those flattened tops is what I was referring to when I said grind them off. Once they're ground down flush, you can punch them down and out. The correct size punch will also act like a hinge pin to hold the door up. Do one pin at a time. I didn't need a jack.

Cutting them in half would work, too, if you can get a dremel tool in there. I don't think I had a cut-off wheel at the time I did it which is probably why I ground it instead of cutting. If it fits, that's probably the best way to make this an easy job. The hardest part of it is getting the old pins out.

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351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

PeTr0 · 04-29-2001, 11:01 PM

What about the bushings...they look like they go into the hole that is on the body flange...which is under the door mounted one. like one pin goes through 4 holes and the bushings are on the middle two. How do you get them into those holes doing one pin at a time

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Red 1993 Gt- flowmasters,BBK Shortie Headers, BBK Hi-Flow H-Pipe, BBK cold air induction w/K&N, Pro 5.0 shifer, 130 amp alt., underdrives,pioneer cd player and kicker component speakers, Kenwood Excelon amp, 2 12" subs in the hatch,firehawk sz50 all around, timing bumped to 13 deg., ADS Superchip, and mobil 1 oil lubing the 302.

04-27-2001, 12:43 PM	#1
PeTr0 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Chicago, IL, USA Posts: 286	Door sag and Hinge pins Ok my door sags, but just a little bit and it is rubbing against the fender. I think i have to replace the hinge pins and bushings on this door. Any tips for a good job? Do i just cut the old pins? do i have to drill out the holes to install the new bushings. I need instructions please if you have them fax them to me...leave a message. ------------------ Red 1993 Gt- flowmasters,BBK Shortie Headers, BBK Hi-Flow H-Pipe, BBK cold air induction w/K&N, Pro 5.0 shifer, 130 amp alt., underdrives,pioneer cd player and kicker component speakers, Kenwood Excelon amp, 2 12" subs in the hatch,firehawk sz50 all around, timing bumped to 13 deg., ADS Superchip, and mobil 1 oil lubing the 302.

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04-27-2001, 03:44 PM	#2
RAINSTANG Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Portland, OR, USA Posts: 98	I can't remember which issue but Mustang 5.0 did an article on replacing the pins awhile ago. If I remember correctly you just have to support the door with jack stands or a floor jack, knock the top of the pins off and drive them out with a punch. My drivers side is starting to sag just a teeny bit but I'm going to the body shop. This is not something I would risk F-ing up.

04-27-2001, 08:19 PM	#3
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	I did this once. You just grind the top of the pins off. Drive them down with a punch. Remove the old bushings. Put new busings in. Then insert new hinge pins and cotter pins. I was stuck using some crappy tool and it took a long time. My guess is that a Dremel tool and cut-off wheel would work best for removing the top of the pin. Air hammer could work, too, but leaves more potential for a mishap. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

04-27-2001, 08:24 PM	#4
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	You have to cut the old pins in half, they don't just 'punch out' as the tops are flattened. A high speed drill makes it fairly easy, although it takes some time. Use a floor jack (or stands) to support the door and have a friend help hold it in place when you get each pin out, as the door will move and you can't get the old pin out and install the new pin and bushings while trying to hold the door. Space is tight in there, too. I did this in my buddy's shop last year and it took a good hour or so, even with a high-speed drill and his (experienced) help. Probably a $50 - $60. job at a body shop. Came out fine; no more sag and no problems. I got the repair kit from Mustangs Unlimited. [This message has been edited by Mr 5 0 (edited 04-27-2001).]

04-28-2001, 07:36 AM	#5
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	Those flattened tops is what I was referring to when I said grind them off. Once they're ground down flush, you can punch them down and out. The correct size punch will also act like a hinge pin to hold the door up. Do one pin at a time. I didn't need a jack. Cutting them in half would work, too, if you can get a dremel tool in there. I don't think I had a cut-off wheel at the time I did it which is probably why I ground it instead of cutting. If it fits, that's probably the best way to make this an easy job. The hardest part of it is getting the old pins out. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

04-29-2001, 11:01 PM	#6
PeTr0 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Chicago, IL, USA Posts: 286	What about the bushings...they look like they go into the hole that is on the body flange...which is under the door mounted one. like one pin goes through 4 holes and the bushings are on the middle two. How do you get them into those holes doing one pin at a time ------------------ Red 1993 Gt- flowmasters,BBK Shortie Headers, BBK Hi-Flow H-Pipe, BBK cold air induction w/K&N, Pro 5.0 shifer, 130 amp alt., underdrives,pioneer cd player and kicker component speakers, Kenwood Excelon amp, 2 12" subs in the hatch,firehawk sz50 all around, timing bumped to 13 deg., ADS Superchip, and mobil 1 oil lubing the 302.