Drag Suspension?
 

On a 89 coupe using 90/10 front struts with drag springs and drag springs in the rear, would it be better to use lift bars or regular type control arms.

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89 LX Coupe
306, 10:1 compression, Holley Heads, Intake, and Cam package, 70 mm Throttle body and Mass Air, 30 lb injectors, 255 lph fuel pump, 1 5/8" full length headers, Flowmaster 2 1/2" American Thunder Cat back system, Centerforce dual friction clutch, 4.10 gears
50-175 hp Nitrous Works kit, 5" Auto Meter Shift Light

I have the aftermarket control arms upper and lowers (BBK) and drag suspension, 90/10 up front and 50/50 out back, with 265's on the back I still cannot hook until 3rd. I would try something different like the lift bars or traction bars, just make sure you reenforce the torque boxes!!!Or go with some slicks, I'm sure they would work well with just the control arms. good luck.

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88LX NOTCH 5.0, TFS Twisted Wedge Aluminum heads, 2.02 1.60 valves, BBK shorties unequal 1 5/8, off road H-pipe, Flowmasters, Drag lites, custom grind cam, solid motormounts, Aluminum Driveshaft, BBK springs, lakewood 90/10 50/50 shocks, BBK upper and lower control arms, 4.10 gears, centerforce DF clutch, adjustable BBK clutch cable with aluminum quadrant, Billet Steel flywheel, 70mm Acufab Throttle Body,MAC cold fender mount induction, K&N, 3 core radiator, flex-lite-fan, custom hardened push-

Well the lift bars are suppose to be a big help when running slicks. I am not really interested in how it hooks on the street tires.

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89 LX Coupe
306, 10:1 compression, Holley Heads, Intake, and Cam package, 70 mm Throttle body and Mass Air, 30 lb injectors, 255 lph fuel pump, 1 5/8" full length headers, Flowmaster 2 1/2" American Thunder Cat back system, Centerforce dual friction clutch, 4.10 gears
50-175 hp Nitrous Works kit, 5" Auto Meter Shift Light

I run the SSM lift bars on mine, they work great with sticky tires on my combo. I run 70/30's, 50/50's and the Eibach Drag launch. You really should re-enforce the torque boxes no matter what arms you use they are weak from the factory. I sell my kit for $100 and they are stainless steel and will not rust, my design is a little different then "the others" and gives more support in my opinion.

If I was buying new I would strongly look at the UPR stuff, very nice stuff and it is similar to the Wolfe pieces. I am getting a pair of their double adjustable uppers with spherical busings,and the sway bar as well. www.uprproducts.com

What kind of numbers or results are you getting with your Holley kit?

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Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,30#,76mm C&L,75mm Accufab, Full MAC, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 33 splines coming very soon!
<B>12.16 @ 113.5, 1.78

[This message has been edited by Rick 91GT (edited 10-30-2001).]

The results were not really good. I never could get all the bugs worked out and I kept having transmission problems, the best I got on motor was only 13.4. I am in the process of going carbureted now.

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89 LX Coupe
306, 10:1 compression, Holley Heads, Intake, and Cam package, 70 mm Throttle body and Mass Air, 30 lb injectors, 255 lph fuel pump, 1 5/8" full length headers, Flowmaster 2 1/2" American Thunder Cat back system, Centerforce dual friction clutch, 4.10 gears
50-175 hp Nitrous Works kit, 5" Auto Meter Shift Light