Cool.:)

wrong....

I dont know much about cams. Most people dont. If you could give a more in depth explanantion of what duration and lift have to do with valve clearance I would appreciate it.

This is the one area I would likie to increase my knowledge.

Thanks,

The intake valve reaches its maximum lift at some defined point (usually about 106 degrees) after top dead center.

That was taken right from Comp Cams.....here's the rest....

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/TimingTutorial/

Blue oval is right but his approach was a little rude.

Think of it like this if the piston is at the bottom of the stroke you can have like 3" of lift. How ever if the piston was all the way at the top you can have very little lift. So if the piston closes when the piston is on the way up it can be big lift. So most of the PV is with timming events rather then lift.

Sorry, still think you are short changing your heads.

What cam would you reccomend.

I had a Lunati that had .537 lift but it was too big so I went with the E303 cause I had one layiong around.

Are you really short changing yourself...YES...but, do you really want to change everything again???? You already said thet you were going to start building a new 351 base motor right??
As goes for the Luniti cam...need more info.
.050 duration as well as advertise. on both sides..
Lift...
LC...
and where you plan on installing at (timing wise...exp..4 degrees advance or what?)

I am a firm believer on custom grind cams...but the $$ you are going to spend on parts, gaskets and such to gain over what you have now and just installed...might be disappointing.

If running in the 11's on motor is what you want, then change it too a custom grind.

I will be happy with a mid 12 second car.

The only mods I have planned for the future are 1.7 roller rockers, a bigger throttle body and 4.30 gears witha 28 inch tire.

DUDE, if you can drive...you already have it!!!!
I went faster 9 years ago with the bullshit parts back then!!!
E-cam
GT-40 (not the p)
GT-40 intake
70mm throttle body
C&L meter
Mac headers 1 5/8
2.5 exhust
Tremec and 4.10 gears.
Listening to the radio and A/C on thw way home from the track!
1.71 60 ft. (approx)
8.0 in the 1/8 @88.6 (mph--approx)
12.45 @108.5 (mph--approx give or take 2 tenthes of a MPH)
Most of the time the car went low 12.50's in 85+ degree heat at 180 feet above sea level.
Done this evrytime I went to the track (6 outings in the same year) Car became so predictable that it was starting to become boring!
:(
Good luck with yours
P.S heads were ported . Flowed in the low 200 at .500 lift and 160 on the exhust if I remember correctley.

then i wouldnt change a thing......

Im always for optimizing a combo....so just ignore me:D

I had almost the same combo and I loved it except my combo was:

BBK shortys vs mac
3.55 vs 4:10
Cobra vs GT40 intake
65mm tb vs 70mm tb
Heads were unported GT40's
I had stock stamped rockers and I had a 156K shortblock

I went 13.2@105.5 on small Dr's at around 900ft.

I loved that combo so much I plan to build another one with this combo for my daily driver.

Its always neat to see the different combos and how they ran/run.

Everyone is a cam expert these days.... everyone wants a custom grind etc, but if you change your combo frequently, custom grind cams can sometimes be a waste of money and its back to the drawing board. I STILL run an e-cam (with 1.7s), and until I decide on what heads/intake for the future, it will remain that way. Besides, the car BARELY failed a pre-test California smog (didn't expect it to pass) with no cats, no EGR, and no make it pass tricks. It also goes good with my stock 95 cobra topend (intake TB, iron gt-40s), and 2 weeks ago put 423/438 to the tires @ 5000 rpms going lean, so until my fuel system gets beefed up to support 6500 rpm, my mild little alphabet old cam will remain.

Nice #'s 423HP at the wheels must be fun. The way I figured it is that the e cam was a good place to start.

Thanks, I'm expecting to see 460ish in June when it gets retuned and run up to 6500. Its fun, but even my Nitto DRs don't quite cut it on the street anymore. The e-cam is a good starting point, and it can make good power matched up with the FMS heads and intakes.

-Rob

Custom cams are way over rated. There are so many great off the shelf cams, unless you race hard core there is no reason to drop the coin on a custom cam. My car made about 500rwhp with a stage 1 trickflow (which is just larger then a E cam). I say about because a rocker came loose on the 450rwhp run. Turns out a lifter was bleeding down. I replaced it and went 124 traps with it on the same tune it dynoed at. I then added two degrees of timming and the car went a converted 127.5mph (only eight mile track but the car was .3 faster and 3mph up on the 1/8 times). I pulled the stage 1 out and slid in a F cam along with some other BS with hopes of 530rwhp and 130 traps.

5L venom what is your fuel system. I had stock everything except GSS340 pump and 42# injectors and had no problem.

I used to run a T-rex inline (until it went bad after a year and blew both HGs), with a hp 255 intank stock lines/rails and 42s and no FMU (junk like t-rex IMO). the last run on the dyno showed the car going lean at 5000 rpm with just the 42s intank etc. I had a feeling the car wasn't going to have enough fuel before hand, but I figured what the hell, hp255 is supposed to support 550. Oh well, I'm in the process of a -8an feed, to twin inline hp255s with a pickup and rail adapters, I might buy rails though too, and a -6an return.

Man that is almost exactly what I had. Assuming the HP 255 you talk about is the GSS340 (also knowen as a 255lph high pressure high volume). I to did not run a FMU they suck.

I am curently putting a fuel system in my car also it is a intake pickup with -10 to a A1000 pump -10 to the regulater then it goes into a Y-block where it goes to two -8's then into downs ford rails and then -6 back to the tank.

Damn man that should do it for ya. I've heard mixed opinions on the Aeromotive pumps for daily driven cars. I'm basically doing the fuel system XTC sells for 1400 bucks, only I'm doing it for 450. :D

http://www.x2cmotorsports.com/cart/s...d=true&key=277

Yeah thats a bad *** kit for sure. I would not have picked the aeromotive pump because I too have heard mixed results but I got a great deal on it used from a freind of a freind. When it goes I will probably throw a weldon pump on there or twin walboro's.