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#1 |
Get down.....
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Room 103
Posts: 2,095
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![]() i have a 90 LX with Mac unequal length shorties, h-pipe, 2 chambers, MSD coil, K&N. the rest of the motor is stock. has anyone JUST used the E or B cam on a totally stock motor, and if so, what are the results of each? i want to go to the B-cam. did anyone have rockers when you had your cam in? if so which ratio? oh i have 3.55's in it.
--------------------- 90 LX Black on Black Flowbabies, h pipe, Mac unequal shoties, Hurst, MSD coil, subframes, 3.55's, lowered, K&N, and 99 Cobra's with 245/45/17's that dotn fit! ![]() |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 5,246
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![]() You won't see a thing. The cam is the last component, and least important to change on the Mustang 5.0. The HO cam is well capable of putting you into the 12's. The intake is not, the heads stock, also will give you problems to do that.
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa
Posts: 1,407
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![]() Well unit is correct, a stock cam cam push a 5.0 to low 12's, but unit, im getting a cam anyways, for one i like the sound, 2, i want some high trap speeds say around 106 mph, a stock cam just wont push a 5.0 that fast topend unless you have severe head porting in which you might as well throw in a cam when you have the motor tore down, and i would recomend the b, actually i say get a crane 2031, and some crane 1.7 rockers, but heads and intake will help out, and be easier to installl.
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 5,246
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![]() I actually doubt you'll see even a single mph higher on trap with a cam swap on stock unported heads. It's just not going to add any hp to heads that actually lose flow above .500 lift. The stock cam already runs lifts equivelent to near max flow production on the heads.
You can get a cam for sound, but for performance, I doubt you'll see any gains worth mentioning until the heads are worked on. Between the B cam and the E cam, the B cam will sound more badass, and it'll produce more hp in the higher revs, sacrificing low end to do it. To each his own of course. |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa
Posts: 1,407
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![]() Doesnt the e make more topend then b? well i dont want to make a big debate over this, but i guess your right about unported heads, they wont flow what the bigger cam has to offer, but now that i htought about this, the best cam for a stang would have to be a custom grind, matched to mods of car.
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#6 |
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA
Posts: 1,001
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![]() Before I transfer this to Windsor Power Forum...
Ditto what Unit5302 said. ![]() From what Ford Racing recommends -- -- B cam for stick cars -- E cam for automatics The duration is more important than the lift with these cams. Look at lobe separation angle too when you want to know how it'll idle and sound "bad-azz." You want an exciting cam check out the Xtreme Energy's CompCams has. ------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Utica, Michigan
Posts: 2,631
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![]() I also agree with Unit. You can make impressive power with the stock cam. It is about the very last thing that needs to be changed.
My friend and I built his 91 coupe. Stock TFS heads, Cobra intake, exhaust, stick car, 3.73's, etc... and a stock cam. He ran a 12.50 @ 108 on slicks and an 11.9 @ 114 on a 75 dry shot. In my opinion, if you put in the cam with no other major work you will have a car that is a lot slower than it sounds. ------------------ 1988 Mustang GT 11.8 @ 123 (7/14/01) 1992 BadAzz Wrangler 1993 Explorer See my car at: www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?179 |
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#8 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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![]() OK, it's unanimous.....I agree too. Save the $$$ and put it towards the heads/intake swap!
------------------ '90 LX 5.0;12K original miles (no sh*&);3.55 gears; March pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads;BBK 1 5/8" equal length shorties;MSD 6AL ignition w/ blaster 2 coil;FMS E303 cam;Pro-M 75mm MAF;BBK 70mm TB; Eibach drag-launch spring kit;Southside welded subs;9" K&N cone filter charger;Hurst shifter;Cervini's 3" turbo hood;A/C delete; gutted cats;2 chamber Flomasters;Corbeau racing seats;FMS 30# injectors;JMS chip; Holley 190lb fp;TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113 - 1.78 60') |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Albuq, NM
Posts: 21
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![]() Actually the
E cam is for the 5 speed and AUTO And B cam is for 5 speed Get the E cam MUCH BETTER ! ![]() [This message has been edited by fantozi (edited 08-31-2001).] |
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#10 |
Get down.....
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Room 103
Posts: 2,095
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![]() Thanks every one. i just wanted little more power. i dont want nitrous. i dont want to spend the dough either. a cam is in my range, but since it "hinders" performance on a stock 5.0, then i will wait until i get the heads and intake. heads either Powerheads, or AFR 165's. intake, definetly a cobra with 65mm. on the heads though, has anyone used or heard about the powerheads? i need to know that badly! thanks a million guys!
90 LX Black on Black Flowbabies, h pipe, Mac unequal shorties, Husrt, 3.55's, subframes, MSD coil, K&N, lowered, and 99 Cobra's w/ 245/45/17 GRB Falkens that dont quite fit yet ![]() |
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#11 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 7
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![]() Quote:
------------------ '85 LX, Performer 289 intake, 650 double pumper, KandN, Crane 1.7 rockers, Jacobs Pro Street ignition and wires, Crane coil, equal length headers, modified exhaust (new system pending), 10.5" Centerforce II, pullies, electric fan, 8.8 with 3.73's, subframe connectors, PST front end rebuild kit, KYB struts, and Eibach springs. Brakes, front seats, 1/4 windows and tailights from a 1990. No times yet. |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa
Posts: 1,407
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![]() B is the way to go, but the e is more of a streetable cam, and still makes good power.
but custom grind is always great, that way your matched with your current mods. |
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#13 |
"Old School Gearhead"
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Peru, Illinois
Posts: 617
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![]() If it's between the B and the E cam, go with the B-303. It works real well with 1.7 ratio rockers also. Although as others have said, a bigger cam with stock heads will do very little for performance, and just eat more gas.
------------------ 1985 Mustang GT '85 GT 12.96@107.1 / '72 Mach1 Long list...check website!! My Website |
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 5,246
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![]() Here are the specs
E-303 .498/.498 220*/220* 110* LSA B-303 .480/.480 224*/224* 107* LSA The B303 cam will idle rougher, have less overall lift, but because of the increased duration, make more hp higher up than the E cam. |
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#15 |
Get down.....
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Room 103
Posts: 2,095
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![]() so the e cam is more for the stock setup, right? i dont have money right now for the heads, but a e cam may make a little. there is only 1 way to find out.
thanks guys |
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#16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 5,246
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![]() The E cam is just plain a better cam for an auto car.
Against the BCam for a stick car, it's a lot harder to choose. The B cam should make a little more topend, loose some on low end. Probably pretty close to each other. The B cam seems to do really well with 1.7's. |
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#17 |
Yay for Chickys
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,532
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![]() eh.
Why stay with an alphabet cam? I went with the dual pattern Xtreme Energy. Sure, its twice the money !$@#%*& but its worth it. ------------------ Elisha~5.0 HO Racing (ahem HIGH OUTPUT!) 1994 GT: The Primered Wonder! Email: Belle@Mustangworks.com AOL name: CBRBelle306 |
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