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Old 05-29-2002, 09:46 AM   #1
sn95gt19
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Default E303 equivalant-without the probs?

i have the e 303 cam in my 95 and am looking for a cam with about the same duration and lift, without the problems, i drive it on the street everyday so it cant be too big, nothing with a really lopey idle, thanks (my mods are below)
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Old 05-29-2002, 10:06 AM   #2
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What problem is the E-cam giving you??
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Old 05-29-2002, 10:07 AM   #3
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low vaccum, surging idle not the power increase i was looking for.
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Old 05-29-2002, 01:11 PM   #4
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I've got the F cam and I've got the same sort of problems.......low rpm bucking anoys the hell out of me. I'm looking into an AFM cam.
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Old 05-29-2002, 01:28 PM   #5
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i had the b303 cam in my old motor and it was the worst cam i have ever had, power band was only from 4000-5000 rpms. so if anyone is looking into that cam i would into another kind. from my past experiance and from hearing others opinions on the ford cams, i dont think i will ever buy another frpp cam.
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Old 05-29-2002, 10:37 PM   #6
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The problem isn't your cam, its the fact that you have it in an Sn95. Those computers do not addapt well at all to cams.

The B303 is NOT a bad cam by any means. I wasn't expecting much out of mine, but I am extremely impressed. In my car, it pulls very hard from 3000 all the way up to the rev limiter, and wants to go even further than that.

If you are gonna slap a cam in an SN95, then you are gonna need a custom chip or EEC tuner if you want it to run decently.
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Old 05-29-2002, 11:44 PM   #7
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i had the b303 in an 89lx, and i have the pms from anderson on order(its on back order for 2 weeks) so well see what happens after i get that and get it all tuned in. one thing that i didnt have was a chip or programmable computer in my 89, i heard that you need one or the other to make the car run right. that might have been the prob. in that car.
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Old 05-30-2002, 12:34 AM   #8
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Most of the time it's not the cams fault, it's a mismatched combo. There are a lot of people who have success with the B303, especially with 1.7's, and many many more who perform well with the E303.

The SN95 cars can certainly take cams, but you have to be picky about which ones you select. You need to make sure the cam isn't too crazy, and it has a good LSA.
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Old 05-30-2002, 09:45 AM   #9
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no one has anwered my ?yet, which is a good cam that is close in duration and lift to the e303, i have heard that the steeda cams are pretty good, also the trick flow and afm. let me know
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Old 05-30-2002, 08:29 PM   #10
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I have heard of many SN95 owners using the Crane 2031...

I believe the main problem with the SN95 computers and aftermarket cams involve the LSA. Look for a cam with a higher LSA such as some of the Comp Cams grinds...

Good luck!!

Chris
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Old 05-30-2002, 09:04 PM   #11
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steeda 19 for our cars is suppose to be nice. the LSA has to be like 14*-16* most of the off the shelf grinds are around 10-12.
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Old 05-31-2002, 08:22 AM   #12
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comp has some cams with a wide LSA and short duration. thats what you need.
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Old 05-31-2002, 10:12 AM   #13
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once i get the pms from anderson, i shouldnt need to get a different cam right? being able to program it will eliminate the poor computer problems.
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Old 05-31-2002, 11:14 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by sn95gt19
once i get the pms from anderson, i shouldnt need to get a different cam right? being able to program it will eliminate the poor computer problems.
Exactly.

The only thing I liked better about my Autologic chip over the PMS was the ability to control the fan. The Autologic software gives you the ability to turn the fan on earlier. The PMS does not.

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Old 05-31-2002, 12:44 PM   #15
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i ran mine to a switch, when the switch is on the fan is always on, but when the switch is off the fan acts like it would on its own, through the computer. its always on though, my fan doesnt turn on until its in the red for some reason. do you know what that could be?
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Old 05-31-2002, 01:37 PM   #16
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Good idea with the switch!

I would suspect the ECT is the culprit on the fan turning on late.

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Old 05-31-2002, 02:25 PM   #17
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just a guess...ECT? I have had mine go bad with no codes and cause it to run hot (Fan not kicking in)
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Old 05-31-2002, 03:14 PM   #18
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yeah, you just splice a wire into the purple w/green stripe from the plug thats on he side of the overflow, and run it to a switch and ground it, then you have an automatic/manual fan switch. where is the ECT located, i have never had to deal with one of those. also what does that stand for?
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Old 05-31-2002, 11:04 PM   #19
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Engine Coolant Temp:

I cant remember exactly where it is. I think it just screws in to the lower.

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Old 05-31-2002, 11:15 PM   #20
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it screws into the coolant tranfer tube that feeds the heater core hoses. cant miss it.
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