easy subframe install on a '91 convertible?

stanger8172 · 07-02-2001, 09:17 PM

What subs should I get for an easy install on my '91 stang convertible? I don't want bolt-on, however, they must be tough as nails. I do not want to cut out the floorboards. There have been no mod's to the underside of the car other than a Lakewood driveshaft loop. Thanks

Lexicon · 07-02-2001, 10:29 PM

Pretty much any of the major manufacturer's offerings will work for your particular application. Contact a manufacturer such as Kenne Bell and inquire with one of their Inside Salespeople. They will be able to assist in choosing the proper stage/combination of subframes and cross supports. A particular noteworthy install point to look for is a set that is first bolted onto the car and then welded in to the "fitted" locations. If I am correct a search in an issue of any major publication will result in a good offering of companies to compare and shop from.

------------------
1994 GT, Performance "Ticket" Red. Stock block with E-303 Cam, 351 "Boss Spec" Heads, Crane 1.7 Rockers, Cobra R Intake, Griffin Aluminum Radiator, BBK 70mm TB, FMS Aluminum Drive Shaft, FMS Clutch "Cobra", BBK Headers, BBK H-pipe, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Zoom Clutch Qradrant. All mating surfaces are port matched and clean, Car is lowered and is factory look. Sound sytem: Sony MD Head Unit, Sony 10-disc with memo Changer, Alpine DSP Equalizer and BBE Center, Image Dynamics Component Drivers (2high

stanger8172 · 07-02-2001, 11:05 PM

Thanx, Lexicon, but did anyone get any that fit up well with no floorboard cutting necessary?

withamc · 07-03-2001, 12:56 AM

I put a set of Groundpounder subs on my '86 convertible. In order to fit any connectors on, you will have to cut off the rear "reinforcement" brackets that go from the rear sub-frame to the body on convertibles. They're basically useless anyway. It made a world of difference. No more rattles... till it got hit by a company van

------------------
93 GT, CCM long block, GT40P heads, Crane 2031, 1.7 RR's, Moroso cold air, 73mm Vortech, 65mm TB, Cobra intake, 24# injectors, MSD 6AL, MAC GT40P headers, 2-1/2" BBK H-pipe (w/cats), Flowmasters, 3.55s, B&M Ripper shifter, Black Magic fan

07-03-2001, 04:41 AM

I was looking through all the companies to find the toughest subframe connectors on the market and what i found (and heard was the strongest) was the Western Motorsports full length subframe connectors. I think the site is www.wmsracing.com . It's made out of very thick gauge roll bar tubing and is a weld on design that connects the front subframe, rear subframe and torque box on each side. Very tough looking. They also advertise in Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords magazine, but they usually show their engine management system and air intake. The packaging sucked and there weren't any directions, but the product speaks for itself in it's quality. I'd be happier if it showed exactly how to weld it in, but it should be easy to figure it out. Other than that, Kenny brown has good full length subframe connectors, and also a brace kit called the extreme matrix brace which looks like it'd really stiffen up anything. Any weld in full length subframe connectors should really be enough, just some ideas. Good luck.

------------------
'84 Mustang 5.0 LX
My car

stanger8172 · 07-03-2001, 08:10 AM

withamc, o.k., guess I am going to have to schedule some surgery on it. The co. van hit your car? I bet you threatened to sue the hell out of them!!! j/k Does it go down the 1/4mi. a little better after that? j/k

84stangLX, that link in your message brought me right to them. My god, they are as big around as a baseball bat! I have got to have these!

07-02-2001, 09:17 PM	#1
stanger8172 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin Posts: 380	easy subframe install on a '91 convertible? What subs should I get for an easy install on my '91 stang convertible? I don't want bolt-on, however, they must be tough as nails. I do not want to cut out the floorboards. There have been no mod's to the underside of the car other than a Lakewood driveshaft loop. Thanks

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07-02-2001, 10:29 PM	#2
Lexicon Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Evansville, Indiana Posts: 182	Pretty much any of the major manufacturer's offerings will work for your particular application. Contact a manufacturer such as Kenne Bell and inquire with one of their Inside Salespeople. They will be able to assist in choosing the proper stage/combination of subframes and cross supports. A particular noteworthy install point to look for is a set that is first bolted onto the car and then welded in to the "fitted" locations. If I am correct a search in an issue of any major publication will result in a good offering of companies to compare and shop from. ------------------ 1994 GT, Performance "Ticket" Red. Stock block with E-303 Cam, 351 "Boss Spec" Heads, Crane 1.7 Rockers, Cobra R Intake, Griffin Aluminum Radiator, BBK 70mm TB, FMS Aluminum Drive Shaft, FMS Clutch "Cobra", BBK Headers, BBK H-pipe, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Zoom Clutch Qradrant. All mating surfaces are port matched and clean, Car is lowered and is factory look. Sound sytem: Sony MD Head Unit, Sony 10-disc with memo Changer, Alpine DSP Equalizer and BBE Center, Image Dynamics Component Drivers (2high

07-02-2001, 11:05 PM	#3
stanger8172 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin Posts: 380	Thanx, Lexicon, but did anyone get any that fit up well with no floorboard cutting necessary?

07-03-2001, 12:56 AM	#4
withamc Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Thousand Oaks, CA Posts: 396	I put a set of Groundpounder subs on my '86 convertible. In order to fit any connectors on, you will have to cut off the rear "reinforcement" brackets that go from the rear sub-frame to the body on convertibles. They're basically useless anyway. It made a world of difference. No more rattles... till it got hit by a company van ------------------ 93 GT, CCM long block, GT40P heads, Crane 2031, 1.7 RR's, Moroso cold air, 73mm Vortech, 65mm TB, Cobra intake, 24# injectors, MSD 6AL, MAC GT40P headers, 2-1/2" BBK H-pipe (w/cats), Flowmasters, 3.55s, B&M Ripper shifter, Black Magic fan

07-03-2001, 04:41 AM	#5
84stangLX Guest Posts: n/a	I was looking through all the companies to find the toughest subframe connectors on the market and what i found (and heard was the strongest) was the Western Motorsports full length subframe connectors. I think the site is www.wmsracing.com . It's made out of very thick gauge roll bar tubing and is a weld on design that connects the front subframe, rear subframe and torque box on each side. Very tough looking. They also advertise in Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords magazine, but they usually show their engine management system and air intake. The packaging sucked and there weren't any directions, but the product speaks for itself in it's quality. I'd be happier if it showed exactly how to weld it in, but it should be easy to figure it out. Other than that, Kenny brown has good full length subframe connectors, and also a brace kit called the extreme matrix brace which looks like it'd really stiffen up anything. Any weld in full length subframe connectors should really be enough, just some ideas. Good luck. ------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 LX My car

07-03-2001, 08:10 AM	#6
stanger8172 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin Posts: 380	withamc, o.k., guess I am going to have to schedule some surgery on it. The co. van hit your car? I bet you threatened to sue the hell out of them!!! j/k Does it go down the 1/4mi. a little better after that? j/k 84stangLX, that link in your message brought me right to them. My god, they are as big around as a baseball bat! I have got to have these!