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06-18-2004, 11:45 AM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Boston
Posts: 592
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71 2v Cleveland heads on a mild 302
Hello all, I recently recieved a set of 1971 Cleveland 2V open chamber heads (D1AE CB) for $100. I was told that these are excellent street heads and flow quite appreciably. My question would be "is it worth it?" I know I could get a direct bolt it head for $1300 but part of me says it would be more fun to build my own, carefully hand porting and cleaning it myself and own a piece of history. Should I do it and how much streetability do I keep? I know the aussie heads are popular but according to fletch, they flow less than the domestic versions!
http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/f.../cleveland.htm The heads have been basically sitting for at least 10 years. The exhaust valves were stuck fast and were all crusty so I had to break them to get them out. Oddly, the intake ports/valves are beautiful and fresh but the exhaust side is crusty and rusty with scale (see attachment). Why was the exhaust side so bad compared to intake? I wirebrushed one and there's good metal underneath. I broke a valve guide taking out the valves, how screwed am I? Are these seats ready for unleaded or do I need to reseat them? I was thinking to get a set of larger 2.19 and 1.71 valves like in the aussie/4v. Will this kill my streetability, bottom end torque? I know I need to drill out the water jacket on either side of the heads. A lot of places say to drill the block. I hate seeing the words drill and block in the same sentence. Would these things be actually able to cool with just the corners drilled? I'm gonna torture the MAC shorty headers until they fit. I'll have to grind the header openings until they sort of look round/ovalish and do the same on the heads. I'll drill holes at 10 and 4 oclock to use the 351's bolt holes. The gaskets look similar enough. All the 351c headers are longtubes and I just got me a new bassani x-pipe that I refuse to part with! For intake....I was contemplating just ghetto stacking gaskets to make the connection for the initial runs to see how good it really is. Afterwards.... Edelbrock makes a performer clevor intake for $190. I appreciate any thoughts! Have a great weekend everyone! Crazy Pete
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
06-18-2004, 03:01 PM | #2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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block drilling
I didn't even blink when instructed to drill holes in the block when installing my TFTW heads. I did get my wife to hold the shop vac right next to where I was drilling to remove all the cuttings from the dril bit. You won't want hot spots caused by non connecting water jackets after installation.
Rev
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'66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe |
06-18-2004, 03:24 PM | #3 |
Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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What you're up to is referred to as a "Clevor". YES it's worth the trouble. The broken valve guide is no big deal at all, had one replaced on my Windsor Sr's for around $50. You will need to replace all the valve seats to run unleaded, but if you think about it with the exhaust valves being stuck, that's not a bad idea to do anyways. I'd also stick with the stock valve size, did you look at those ports???? You'd need a huffer up top to fill up those chamber with monster valves.
Here's a link to a thread talking about exactly what you're thinking about doing: http://www.network54.com/Forum/threa...eid=1085978217 Hope this helps you out dude! Keep us posted!
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply..... |
06-18-2004, 07:05 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Boston
Posts: 592
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Excellent! I'm happy to know that I am partaking in a wel documented procedure.
Am I right to think that this edelbrock intake will fit? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=EDL%2D2750 It lists for 351C with 2V heads. So you guys are recommending that I go with the stock valve sizes....I hear there is some gains to be made in increasing the exhaust valve size and doing portwork exhaustside on these heads and leaving the intake ports alone. Lets say I do increase the valve size...I'm also boring out the port to match the valve, right? This is what they really refer to when they talk about increasing valvesize, right? I'm not just sticking a bigger valve in there "as is" I dont think What do you think of the port plates. I hear they were popular during their day. Would they be appropriate for the 2V heads? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=36474 Thanks for all the responses! Have a great weekend! Pete
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
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