EFI to Carb...For those of you that emailed me..LG

[gofastlx]

Due to an overwhelming response:

Ok first thing to tackle when converting to carb is removing all of your EFI wiring harnesses, and sensors, and that can be found at: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/T.../efi-carb.html

This will cover the basic removal of all sensors, and direct you to the locations that are needed to get your stock gauges working again.

The next thing is your fuel system, there are 2 options

1.) If your running an older block, that has mechanical pump provisions in the timing you can simply plumb your tank to use a mechanical pumb. If you want to get more exotic you could ensure the delivery of fuel by adding, an inline, or intank low pressure electric fuel pump to push fuel to the mechanical one.

2.) This is the step I chose in which I scrapped the EFI fuel sytem entirely, and constructed a totally new setup for my application. First thing to do is have the stock fuel tank sumped, in which a sump is purchased, or constructed, and then welded to the lowest part of the tank. The sump I used was a CE sump that sells for about $50 from Summit, or Jegs, I was lucky to find a fellow racer that sold it to me for $25.

3.)The fuel filter that I chose was a Mallory Comp110 4 port billet aluminum piece that sells for about $70, in which it is mounted between the sump, and the fuel pump. The fuel pump I chose to use is the Holley Blue that sells for about $88/$100 at some places, and it comes with it's own pressure regulator that is preset at 7psi.

4.)NHRA rules state that you cannot have more than 12" of rubber line throughout the entire fuel system, If you don't care go ahead, and completely plumb the system with it. I opted to use all -8AN Aeroquip anodized fittings, and AQP steel braided hose to connect everything to the sump, and aluminum line. There are too many fittings to list, but if you want to do it right email me, and I'll list them out for you, and lastly I replaced the stock feed, and return lines with Moroso 1/2, and 3/8" aluminum tubing.

5.)Oh, one other last piece that is at the front of the engine is my Mallory 4309 4 port regulator, which ties everything into the fuel line to the carb.

**I think the fuel system is the hardest part to design, if you want it designed properly. I designed mine so I can add another fuel pump, and filter later down the road if I ever decide to add Nitrous. This fuel system is very flexible, should you ever decide to switch back to EFI you could easily remove the Holley Blue, and replace it with an EFI style external pump...Hell my reg will hold up to 50psi with the change of a spring.

Once you've removed the wiring, and your Fuel system is all set the next thing to get is an old 85 style distributor, or purchase a newer carbed style dizzy. I have a Mallory Unilite that sells for about $179.00 new through most dealers.

If you've followed the directions in the URL that I added at the top of this page you should already know what needs to be reconnected, or jumpered to get the signal back to the fuel pump, and as I said earlier get your gauges working again.

Other than that, toss your favorite intake, and carb on, and your ready to rock

**My 92 wiring was way different than those listed in the URL, if for some reason you have a problem locating a wire let me know..I DID NOT use my stock gauges, so I can't help you there. I did however hook into my FP lead, and Ignition trigger...

I might have some pics of the sump, fitings, lines...etc if interested on how it looks when done.


Rob (gofastlx@yahoo.com)