which NOS kit need advice quick

[302crew]

well i need to know the advatnages to what nitrous kit to use i have the rpm air gap intake should i use the sportsman fogger which is direct port or should i just go with a plate between the intake and carb. ill will only be running about 150 shot at the most and with the plate shot since its a double plane intake will that make any effect on the cylinders that get nitrous im really not to sure just someone metioned it might not be worth spending all that money on the direct port when im not going to be running that big of a shot any advice would be appriciated

[jim_howard_pdx]

I would buy a 2" carb stack OPEN. Run the Fogger between the Demon and the 2" stack. This will give a ram effect, and help get better cylinder to cylinder mixtures.

Go with the FOGGER, and buy a set up that can go up to 250 HP. NOS does damage when you go lean, and a 150 shot is often more dangerous to a motor than a 250 shot. The 250 shot will end up about 195 because of the displacement/ volumetric efficiency of the engine.

You NEED TO MAKE SURE THE CARB is slightly rich, and you need to jet the NOS slightly rich too.

USE A HEATED BLANKET to keep NOS pressure high, this is a must!

Consider purchasing a water injection system just to make sure you do not detonate. Do not run more than 30 degrees total advance unless you are certain your fuel exceeds 104 octane. Then do not let it go much past 33 or 34 degrees total advance.

Now you can direct port, but it just adds a whole lot of extra variables and problems. Unless you have a dyno to tune each individual cylinder, the FOGGER will be safer for you. TRUST ME ON THIS.

Do not go with anything other than a top quality FOGGER system.

[302crew]

can anyone else help with some suggestions

[Bob]

For what your wanting to do, a plate system will work fine. I did quite a bit of checking on this when I put my car on the bottle, (just finished installing it about a month ago) and went with a N.O.S. Cheater system. It's a plate system that comes with jets to go from 150-250 h.p. You can also jet it down lower to start out with so you can get used to how it works like the smaller kits. I started out with it jetted to 100 and went from there. It's not much more than the power shot kits money wise, but comes with bigger solenoids and a better flowing bottle valve so you can upgrade if you want to later. It's very complete and comes with great instructions. The main thing is to make sure your fuel system will flow enough volume with enough pressure so you don't go lean at WOT. By the way, I also run an RPM intake and the plate system works fine with it.

[302crew]

whats is the biggest shot i can run do you think. I have hyperputic pistons with a girdle and stock rods and cranks with all studs on the motor with edlelbrock heads also will my fuel system be enough i have a fuel pump that flows a 140 gph at 18psi and i have -6an fuel lines and is there any plate kit that comes with the bigger solinoids i was looking at the kit 4 levels of fun

[Bob]

That's the Cheater system that I'm talking about. I'm pretty sure that what it says in the Summit catalouge. I would say your fine with 150 as long as you back the timing down and run one step colder plug. 140 gph pump is fine, I run a Mallory Comp 140 to feed the motor and the NOS without any problem, but a -6 feed line is a little small. Use a fuel pressure safety switch (Hobbs) inline just to be safe.

[jim_howard_pdx]

The hypereutectic pistons are going to be really "iffy" when you get past about a 100- 125 HP NOS squirt. By the way, a 150 NOS system typically delivers about 105-109 HP at the rear wheels.

The stock rings are also not up to the task. The stock rod bolts are not up to the task. The rod bearings have how many miles on them?????

I like to run dual 1/2 inch fuel lines on my NOS engines. It sounds like overkill, but everytime you bend a 3/8 inch line, you reduce its ability to provide volume over time. 1/2 inch fuel line just gives you that much better opportunity to keep eveything happy when the hammer is down.

Remember that the 140 GPH rating of the fuel pump is with optimum inlet and optimum outlet into NO PRESSURE. This does not exist on a street car.

I like to plumb the fuel pickup with two 3/8 inch pickups and run these into two 75-110 gph fuel pumps with 1/2 inch lines to the engine. I like to run separate lines to the primary and secondary sides of my Carbs on NOS engines. That way you know you will keep the bowls full.

I like the idea of running a fuel pressure cut-off, to kill the NOS system if the pressure drops, but it has never happened on any of my cars running dual fuel lines. I keep seat pressure at 5.5 lbs.

Since you are running hypereutectics and alot of stock stuff, you should consider using an MSD ignition box with the retard function. This means that when the NOS kicks in, your MSD will retard the spark by about 6 to 8 degrees to avoid detonation.

That is how we get 500+ horsepower out of a 1.7 liter dual turbo Maxda rotary engine. And yes it will spank your 5.0 with very low 9 second passes, one after the other. The MSD retard works so well, that after an entire season of racing, the piston tops and rings look like there is NO NOS and NO TURBO. Quite a feat for a 500 HP engine making over a hundred passes per season.

On your 5.0, when you do a bottom end rebuild, use the plasma moly top ring, not the single moly top ring. Use about 8.5 to 1 compression (FORGED) and have the pistons and the combustion chambers coated. You can do this yourself but the smell is incredible. There are some shops in Calif that will coat the parts for you at a great price.

Please go with a super lightweight piston and the longest light weight rod you can squeeze in. Have a shop turn down your crank journals to small block chevy size rod bearings. This will reduce the speed of the rod bearing and will eliminate unnecessary heat and possible spun bearings.

They can offset grind the journals at the same time to give you a 331 displacement. I absolutely love this engine. Lots of torque with the long rods. Perfect for superchargers and HEAVY NOS.

The heads you have are fine, but past 200 HP on the NOS shot you have a good chance of blowing the head gasket. I would consider grooving the head like Trick Flow does, and use the cool Felpro wire lock head gaskets. We have used these in NOS engines for about 4 years now and have only lost one head gasket in all that time. We replaced the head gasket and went right back on the track. TOTALLY COOL!

Hope this helps.

FOGGER SYSTEM PLATE SYSTEM
NOS CHEATER WOULD BE MY PURCHASE.
MSD retard box,
Water injection,
Dual 1/2 fuel lines with dual 3/8 fuel inlets from the fuel tank
Run pressure regulators at 5.5 to 6.5.
USE A NOS TANK WARMER.

You should now be good for the time being. With super lightweight pistons and rods we got a 5.0 to 9.13 on the quarter mile with a 350 squirt. Ran just fine. That took two NOS bottles and a progressive set up so we would not mash the rod bearings into copper dust.

[302crew]

do you think this would work if i put a tee at the pump and ran a -4an line up to the nos soliniod and the cheater comes with the big soliniods or the little ones and BOb if you dont mind me asking what were you times before the juice and after the juice

[302crew]

anybody

[Bob]

The Cheater comes with the bigger solenoids. My car runs 12.90's on the motor alone with street tires. Just put the nitrous on a month ago and haven't been to the track yet with it, but it makes quite a difference and I'm looking forward to seeing what it'll do! Fuel system is a little small, make sure you run that Hobbs switch.

[1320]

Hey man, Its been awhile .. You finally got the juice huh? Going o make it Joliet before they close? Let me know I will shoot out there with my (New) Stang..

Andy

[Bob]

Hey Andy!!! Yea it's been a while. Finally did it...ya can't rush into these things! Unfortunately, 66 is already closed for the season. I thought about trying to make it to Byron, but it's getting pretty cold now. NEW STANG???? I'll try to catch ya on ICQ....