EGR valve question...
 

My EGR plate has been removed for several years.
I zip tied the plunger closed (all the way in) on the EGR valve itself. My engine will not idle when cold, and cuts out. The tach does not go to zero so my ignition seems to be good.
While warming up, I have to goose it to keep it running.
It runs great, almost perfect once it is warm.

I've replaced/checked the IAB, TPS, ACT, ECT, MAF, fuel pump, coil, fuel pump relay, and looked for vacuum leaks.

How do ya'll have your EGR's blocked off? Since I have all emissions stuff removed can I just disconnect the EGR valve too? Or does it provide some reference signal to the EEC-IV? I'm frustrated at this point, it's been happening for a week now.

Re: EGR valve question...
 

The system looks for a closed voltage value from the sensor of .2vdc or higher, if you have the plunger all the way in, it's reading over the max value for a closed valve condition. There is a resistor plug to get rid of the valve but still provide the ECM with a "good" voltage reading, don't have the details on how to get one but maybe one of the guys can help you with it. You could also zip the plunger to a position where the signal reading stays above .2vdc and take care of that concern.

On your idle/cold problem.......have you checked the system for codes? If so, can you post them? It will give us more info to help you solve the problem. LUK

Re: EGR valve question...
 

I got a egr eliminator off of ebay for maybe 10 bucks. Works great not problems at all.

Re: EGR valve question...
 

A new symptom now, when it cuts off, I can hear the fuel pump cycling on and off at least three to four times with the key in the ignition?
Is this a sign of a short somewhere? The fuel pump relay underneath the drivers seat gets extremely hot too.

still looking...thanks

Re: EGR valve question...
 

I replaced the ignition switch today and I ordered the EGR plug from ebay, thanks for the tips. I'll post if it works....
After the ignition switch install, it ran well. So we'll see.