Engine Block Casting #s

CHRIS75 · 04-15-2004, 10:36 AM

does anybody know the casting numbers on the engine for a 351w with a 9.5 deck height, the one i have was from a pick-up truck in the 1970's i think, a guy is trying to sell me another block and said the one i have will not suite my needs, but i'm pretty sure it will THANK FOR ALL YOUR HELP GUYS!!!

PKRWUD · 04-17-2004, 09:40 AM

I'm not aware of any 351W blocks that didn't have a 9.5" deck. I'm thinking you or your buddy is talking about a 351M block, which is not interchangeable with a 351W. What are the numbers that are cast into your block just above the starter?

Ieatcamaros · 04-17-2004, 09:55 AM

If it is a motor from the late 70's pick up truck it is a 351 Modified. And in the early 70's they put 302, 360, 390, and 460's in the trucks. If I am not mistaken, Ford didn't put a 351W in the trucks until the 80's. Are you sure this came out of a truck? A 351W from a car in the 70's would have been a 9.2 deck height. An example casting # would be D4AE-6015-AA and then like a 7M2. All this is cast right above the starter. BTW, the easiest way to tell if you have a 351W or a 351M is that the 351W looks exactly like the 302 only slightly bigger. The 351M is a totally different animal.

PKRWUD · 04-17-2004, 12:15 PM

Hmmmmm. From 1969 through at least 1981, the 351W deck height was no less than 9.480", and no more than 9.503". Ford Motorsport offered SVO blocks with a deck height of 9.5" or 9.2", but I doubt either one of these blocks is an SVO. The 351C had a deck height of 9.2", and the 351M and 400C both were about an inch taller.

We need casting numbers.

Another easy way to tell a 351W from a 351C or 351M is by counting the valve cover bolts. The Windsor has 6, whereas the Cleveland and Modified both have 8.

Ieatcamaros · 04-17-2004, 01:00 PM

Yeah I forgot about the valve cover bolts. It is always those little things that I forget. I was thinking the deck height was 9.2 and I was 90% sure on that. I should have stated that. I know that the 351 that I have in my stang is a 9.5 deck height and it is a 74 block. Thanks for the correction PKRWUD. Glad to see you back on the boards.

CHRIS75 · 04-17-2004, 01:02 PM

yeah the block came out of a truck but there is no number above the starter it looks like the numbers where taken off the block with a grinder or something i dont have the heads, oh well guess ill trash it, ill start all over again, so what year block would you guy recommend for my use, i was thinking something with roller valve train capable if possible, and strong? one more question for the 393 stroker you use a 3.85 crank and stock 315w rods and 302 pistons why not 351 pistons?, i phoned an engine builder to ask him and he couldn't give me an answer, guess i take my business somewhere else, so if you bore it out 0.30 over wouldn't it make a 396?

Ieatcamaros · 04-17-2004, 01:06 PM

Well don't throw it away. There are a number of us on the board who would use it. On the 393, the 351 pistons are too tall. Or at least that is what I have read. I am going to build one myself this winter. As for the block, I would use a 69-74 block with the two piece rear seal and covert it to roller cam. But actually you would be more pleased with solid rollers. I think that 85 and later 351 were hyd. rollers. Someone verify me on this. PKRWUD? LOL. BTW, it is a 393 when bored .030.

CHRIS75 · 04-17-2004, 01:07 PM

oh one more question, does anybody know why there is a black dot on the envelope?

CHRIS75 · 04-17-2004, 01:13 PM

how do you tell if it is a two piece rear seal any type of old cars i should look at, one of the wreckers here only deals with old ford cars and trucks (complete engine for about 100.00)

thanks for your help ieatcamaros and PKRWUD

PKRWUD · 04-17-2004, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Ieatcamaros
Yeah I forgot about the valve cover bolts. It is always those little things that I forget. I was thinking the deck height was 9.2 and I was 90% sure on that. I should have stated that. I know that the 351 that I have in my stang is a 9.5 deck height and it is a 74 block. Thanks for the correction PKRWUD. Glad to see you back on the boards.

Bro, I'm not trying to correct anybody, let alone you.

I was just trying to clarify the possibilities for this guy.

I try and stop by when I can. I just finished upgrading the software we use over at RHC, and I needed to get away for a bit. lol.

The piston pin in the 351W piston is aprox. .140" higher than in the 302 piston.

I'm not sure when the 351W went roller. I know that all 5.0L blocks from '88 on are roller ready. The trucks didn't go roller until '92, I believe, but the blocks were made in Cleveland with the rest of the 5.0's, and are all the same design. Since the 351W and the 5.0L were never made at the same plant, I can't say if the same timeline holds true for the 351W. BTW, why do people still call the 302 a Windsor? That's always bugged me. lol.

Ieatcamaros · 04-17-2004, 08:34 PM

Thanks for the compliment PKRWUD.

Quote:

why do people still call the 302 a Windsor? That's always bugged me. lol.

You know, I never did understand that either. The only thing that I can think of is that it is so much like the 351W only smaller. So many things will interchange between the two.

Chris75, you have to take the flywheel off to visually see if it is a 2 piece or 1 piece. A one piece rear seal looks just like the one you put on your rotors(wheel seal) only bigger. A two piece seal is two pieces of rubber with metal reinforcement. It is sandwiched in the back main bearing cap. I am not sure when they changed that over either. But the old ones I assure you are 2 piece. I prefer the 1 piece since they are easier to change. I can live with having a 2 piece vs having a green casting.

CHRIS75 · 04-17-2004, 11:53 PM

so a two piece is better than a one piece then?, let me get this right im looking for a 69 to 74 block with two piece seal then? i also heard that the 351 is only worth building only if its stroked is that true or can you get the same power with just a rebuild? i was also thinking about going up to a 408, my use is mainly for street duty plus daily driver any suggestion?

thanks for all your help man, you have cleared alot up for me!

Ieatcamaros · 04-18-2004, 12:15 AM

A 351 is worth building even if it ain't stroked. I will put mine against any 408 even though I would get spanked. Put it this way, build a 351, if you aren't satisfied, make a 408 out of it. Then you will know for sure. Of course, you will make more power with more cubes in the N/A form. If you want a street car with some track duty, I would build a 351 with at least 10:1 compression. Slap some AFR 185's on it with a good hyd roller cam. You will be pleased. The other most important thing is it must have at least a 3.55 gear for a stick car and at least 3.73 for an auto. Some people will argue that point cause it is personal preference. Personally I like my 4.10 with my 5 speed. BTW, I am not claiming that a 2 piece seal is any better than a one piece. Like I said, the 2 piece is a pita to change. They both seal good and they both wear out the same. The older 351's had two piece rear seals and you would just have to live with that. Look at it this way, by the time you need to change it, you needed to put bearings in it anyway.

CHRIS75 · 04-18-2004, 12:22 PM

well im going to rebuild it first and if i dont like it like you said upgrade, i see alot of mustang with high hp run auto trans but im think manual, got to love the stick but can it hold the hp like the auto, i have heard that you can turn the manual into soup real easy, so im think stay auto with a reverse valve body and a line lock and i was thinking 3:55 to 3:73 gears BTW what is AFR?

your mustang sound like it'll rock!

stang_racer20 · 04-18-2004, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by CHRIS75
BTW what is AFR?

Wha? AFR man, Air Flow Research, the number one streetable small block head on the market, IMO. Check em out.

CHRIS75 · 04-18-2004, 06:52 PM

i checked them out not bad

thanks

CHRIS75 · 04-18-2004, 06:59 PM

i was just wondering is there a book or manual i can buy to get the casting codes for engines,trannys,rear end etc. just want to be able to go to a wrecker an now what to look for when it comes to drive trains etc. or where can i find these codes in writng form.

thanks

PKRWUD · 04-19-2004, 02:55 AM

I'm yet to find one book that has them all, but there are several that have a lot. Check out Barnes & Noble.

CHRIS75 · 04-19-2004, 11:44 AM

thanks im going to check it out right now and see what they have for books, i checked out the AFR 185 heads and there are two types emission legal and non emission which ones are better, we dont have the sniffer here yet but it coming soon, can you run NOS with the emission one?

CHRIS75 · 04-19-2004, 11:59 AM

i could find any manuals that would have the codes in them, the only think i found is a parts locating manual is that what im looking for?

thanks guys

04-15-2004, 10:36 AM	#1
CHRIS75 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 67	Engine Block Casting #s does anybody know the casting numbers on the engine for a 351w with a 9.5 deck height, the one i have was from a pick-up truck in the 1970's i think, a guy is trying to sell me another block and said the one i have will not suite my needs, but i'm pretty sure it will THANK FOR ALL YOUR HELP GUYS!!!

04-17-2004, 09:40 AM	#2
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	I'm not aware of any 351W blocks that didn't have a 9.5" deck. I'm thinking you or your buddy is talking about a 351M block, which is not interchangeable with a 351W. What are the numbers that are cast into your block just above the starter? __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

04-17-2004, 09:55 AM	#3
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	If it is a motor from the late 70's pick up truck it is a 351 Modified. And in the early 70's they put 302, 360, 390, and 460's in the trucks. If I am not mistaken, Ford didn't put a 351W in the trucks until the 80's. Are you sure this came out of a truck? A 351W from a car in the 70's would have been a 9.2 deck height. An example casting # would be D4AE-6015-AA and then like a 7M2. All this is cast right above the starter. BTW, the easiest way to tell if you have a 351W or a 351M is that the 351W looks exactly like the 302 only slightly bigger. The 351M is a totally different animal. __________________ The sig says it all.

04-17-2004, 12:15 PM	#4
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Hmmmmm. From 1969 through at least 1981, the 351W deck height was no less than 9.480", and no more than 9.503". Ford Motorsport offered SVO blocks with a deck height of 9.5" or 9.2", but I doubt either one of these blocks is an SVO. The 351C had a deck height of 9.2", and the 351M and 400C both were about an inch taller. We need casting numbers. Another easy way to tell a 351W from a 351C or 351M is by counting the valve cover bolts. The Windsor has 6, whereas the Cleveland and Modified both have 8. __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

04-17-2004, 01:00 PM	#5
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	Yeah I forgot about the valve cover bolts. It is always those little things that I forget. I was thinking the deck height was 9.2 and I was 90% sure on that. I should have stated that. I know that the 351 that I have in my stang is a 9.5 deck height and it is a 74 block. Thanks for the correction PKRWUD. Glad to see you back on the boards. __________________ The sig says it all.

04-17-2004, 01:02 PM	#6
CHRIS75 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 67	yeah the block came out of a truck but there is no number above the starter it looks like the numbers where taken off the block with a grinder or something i dont have the heads, oh well guess ill trash it, ill start all over again, so what year block would you guy recommend for my use, i was thinking something with roller valve train capable if possible, and strong? one more question for the 393 stroker you use a 3.85 crank and stock 315w rods and 302 pistons why not 351 pistons?, i phoned an engine builder to ask him and he couldn't give me an answer, guess i take my business somewhere else, so if you bore it out 0.30 over wouldn't it make a 396?

04-17-2004, 01:06 PM	#7
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	Well don't throw it away. There are a number of us on the board who would use it. On the 393, the 351 pistons are too tall. Or at least that is what I have read. I am going to build one myself this winter. As for the block, I would use a 69-74 block with the two piece rear seal and covert it to roller cam. But actually you would be more pleased with solid rollers. I think that 85 and later 351 were hyd. rollers. Someone verify me on this. PKRWUD? LOL. BTW, it is a 393 when bored .030. __________________ The sig says it all.

04-17-2004, 01:07 PM	#8
CHRIS75 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 67	oh one more question, does anybody know why there is a black dot on the envelope?

04-17-2004, 01:13 PM	#9
CHRIS75 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 67	how do you tell if it is a two piece rear seal any type of old cars i should look at, one of the wreckers here only deals with old ford cars and trucks (complete engine for about 100.00) thanks for your help ieatcamaros and PKRWUD

04-17-2004, 11:53 PM	#12
CHRIS75 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 67	so a two piece is better than a one piece then?, let me get this right im looking for a 69 to 74 block with two piece seal then? i also heard that the 351 is only worth building only if its stroked is that true or can you get the same power with just a rebuild? i was also thinking about going up to a 408, my use is mainly for street duty plus daily driver any suggestion? thanks for all your help man, you have cleared alot up for me!

04-18-2004, 12:15 AM	#13
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	A 351 is worth building even if it ain't stroked. I will put mine against any 408 even though I would get spanked. Put it this way, build a 351, if you aren't satisfied, make a 408 out of it. Then you will know for sure. Of course, you will make more power with more cubes in the N/A form. If you want a street car with some track duty, I would build a 351 with at least 10:1 compression. Slap some AFR 185's on it with a good hyd roller cam. You will be pleased. The other most important thing is it must have at least a 3.55 gear for a stick car and at least 3.73 for an auto. Some people will argue that point cause it is personal preference. Personally I like my 4.10 with my 5 speed. BTW, I am not claiming that a 2 piece seal is any better than a one piece. Like I said, the 2 piece is a pita to change. They both seal good and they both wear out the same. The older 351's had two piece rear seals and you would just have to live with that. Look at it this way, by the time you need to change it, you needed to put bearings in it anyway. __________________ The sig says it all.

04-18-2004, 12:22 PM	#14
CHRIS75 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 67	well im going to rebuild it first and if i dont like it like you said upgrade, i see alot of mustang with high hp run auto trans but im think manual, got to love the stick but can it hold the hp like the auto, i have heard that you can turn the manual into soup real easy, so im think stay auto with a reverse valve body and a line lock and i was thinking 3:55 to 3:73 gears BTW what is AFR? your mustang sound like it'll rock!

04-18-2004, 06:52 PM	#16
CHRIS75 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 67	i checked them out not bad thanks

04-18-2004, 06:59 PM	#17
CHRIS75 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 67	i was just wondering is there a book or manual i can buy to get the casting codes for engines,trannys,rear end etc. just want to be able to go to a wrecker an now what to look for when it comes to drive trains etc. or where can i find these codes in writng form. thanks

04-19-2004, 02:55 AM	#18
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	I'm yet to find one book that has them all, but there are several that have a lot. Check out Barnes & Noble. __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

04-19-2004, 11:44 AM	#19
CHRIS75 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 67	thanks im going to check it out right now and see what they have for books, i checked out the AFR 185 heads and there are two types emission legal and non emission which ones are better, we dont have the sniffer here yet but it coming soon, can you run NOS with the emission one?

04-19-2004, 11:59 AM	#20
CHRIS75 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 67	i could find any manuals that would have the codes in them, the only think i found is a parts locating manual is that what im looking for? thanks guys

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