Engine Flushes? Whats the best way to flush out the gunk
 

I have a 89 Special Service Mustang with 134k on the odo. The car runs real strong but I am leaving for a couple of month's to Connecticut and I'm driving my car up there.
What is the best way to flush your engine. I am also doing a tune-up. should I kept my timming on 14 degree? But I would like to know if you guys have any good idea's in flushing the engine safely. I know changing the oil is good but there's always gunk that can rob you of HP and Performance.

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89 Intercepter
BBK Shorty Headers, K@N Cone Filter,H-pipe, Flow Master,Under Drive Pullys,14 degree,Short Belt 14 degree Timming, No Air Silencer, And All Police Package

Change your oil, and put a new filter on, nothing expensive, use cheap oil and filter. Drive the car for an hour or so, and change the oil and filter again. Start the car, if the oil turns black after 15 minutes of driving repeat it one more time. Then put your good oil and good filter on it. I'm not a fan of that "engine flush" stuff. Do it just using oil. It works great.

[This message has been edited by tra9379 (edited 01-02-2001).]

I would NEVER use engine flush, I've seen several destroyed engines that ran fine before flush was used, and some that the pan had to be removed to clean pick up after flush, just change oil more frequently should help.

Army Orlandini

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89 GT 347 Trick flow heads and intake bbk full length headers 3.73 Pro Charger with 3 row intercooler and much much more

I agree. Engine flush can do more harm than it does good. Pick a brand of oil and stay with it. Change your oil every 2000 miles (or as soon as it starts to look dirty) for awhile and that should take care of any build up.

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90 Mustang LX 5.0
My Ride*My Site

I heard that if you put some ATF fluid and run the car for about an hour and then changing the oil, it really helps cleaning all the gunk out. I never tried this myself but I heard this from a couple of mechanics.

I also heard, when using that engine flush. All the gunk thats pasted to the engine, get's loose and damage your engine.

You may get a few posts saying "Go ahead, flush it. I've never had any problems." or "I use motor flush every oil change(or every other etc)." Those guys have been lucky

I would suggest using engine flushes only in extreme cases where you KNOW the engine is gummed up cause you pulled the valve cover, or you have a lifter ticking/knocking and the flush is the last chance before tearing the engine down.

Flushes are actually strong solvents that run through the engine and dissolve gunk, carbon deposits, wax deposits, etc. This also means that your oil is drastically thinned during that 20-30 minutes of flush time. That means ALL moving parts are not properly lubed while flushing.

My advice is to leave well enough alone, unless you KNOW that your engine is gunked up. I will assume, since you post here, that you change your oil like you should. Which means you do not need an engine flush. If, however, you still feel the need to run a flush through, let the car idle. DO NOT rev it up while the stuff is doing it's job. That way you don't put stress on the bearings while the oil is thinned.

Your call, this is just my advice.Later

Thanks guys, I guess I'll keep changing my oil every 2,500 miles and wait and see if that faint lifter noise will go away.

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89 Intercepter
BBK Shorty Headers, K@N Cone Filter,H-pipe, Flow Master,Under Drive Pullys,14 degree,Short Belt 14 degree Timming, No Air Silencer, And All Police Package

I use synthetic (blend) 20-w50 racing oil and has worked out good, but "cobra85, i dont want to insult your inteligence, but i wouldnt put ATF fluid in the motor, or at least not in the motor, however i heard of people putting a little in their carburetors to clean valves of carbon.

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90 lx coupe: Mac cold air fenderwell, accel supercoil,advncd ignition,3-core radiatr, FMS alum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs, 3chbr flows.
Best time: 14.26(on 225/60/15 firehawks)
Best mph 96.33 (with a passenger)
Best 60' 2.1
next mods: subframes, 3.73's

If you have lifters tapping try the tranny fluid idea before your next oil change. Don't verfill your engine by adding a quart of tranny fluid, but if 1 quart won't overfill it go ahead and add it before you change your oil next time. It's ok to drive with it in there and shouldn't hurt anything. Tranny fluid will help to clean everything out and may help with lifter tapping. I know this works because I have done this on an 85 Ford van with a 302 in it. It had serious lifter tapping in it and it made a big difference.

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90 Mustang LX 5.0
My Ride*My Site

Goto your auto parts stores in your area and ask for some stuff in a can called CD-2.It cleans rings,valves,lifters of varnish deposits.This is most likely why your lifters are abit noisy.All you do is dump the can into your oil and run til the next oil change.

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Paxton Blown 87GT

yea i was told once(but no way in hell will i do it) is get the car running at temp and drop somewater in the valve covers and it steam cleans the valves..hahahaha..ive also heard kerosine in the block..but i would just suggest chanig ur oil frequntly

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1987 black notch(ex 4 banger)
DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one..

Good Ideas but I dont think that putting water on the valve cover is smart.

Thanks all

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89 Intercepter
BBK Shorty Headers, K@N Cone Filter,H-pipe, Flow Master,Under Drive Pullys,14 degree,Short Belt 14 degree Timming, No Air Silencer, And All Police Package