Best Tubular K-Member????

88PONY · 01-23-2003, 10:54 AM

What do you guys think the best Tubular K-Member is? I like the SSM one due to the fact that you can take the center out todrop the oil pan. What do you guys think? I wanna keep the stock control arms and springs. I don't trust the tubular ones on the bumpy roads of NEW JERSEY.

Thanks

VeNuM · 01-23-2003, 07:57 PM

I've heard tubular doesn't hold up on a daily driver. I see that D&D Motorsports sells 2 different ones, a road, street, drag, and a drag only. The SSM is tubular and I haven't heard anything particular about it. The UPR is said to be for drag only cars, these are faint memories so don't take me 100% on this. ~Brian

sn95gt19 · 01-23-2003, 10:00 PM

i have heard of people saying that their d+d's didnt fit right, mine fit perfect though. a buddy of mine has the qa1 from summit, fits like a glove too.

VeNuM · 01-23-2003, 11:12 PM

sn95gt19: How's yours on the street. It looks like a good setup from D&D and I would like to get one on my car but it is street driven. ~Brian

sn95gt19 · 01-23-2003, 11:14 PM

mines great on the street havent had any problems "yet".

i have the tubular a arms and coil over setup too.

87BOSS351C · 01-24-2003, 08:29 AM

I have the QA1 and it fit great. You do have to modify the stock a arms a little but not anything major. It also moves your wheels forward about 0.75 inches. The paperwork that came with it doesn't say anything about it being drag only. Lots of other guys run them on the street. If they'll hold up in autocross, should take the street no problem. My car won't be on the road till spring, so I haven't personally experianced it on the street.

Later

sn95gt19 · 01-24-2003, 09:05 AM

my buddy with the qa1 had to grind 1/8th inch off the part that houses the a arm bushing, it was hitting the k member. nothing major though

87BOSS351C · 01-24-2003, 10:21 AM

Yup, that's what I did too. I just used a hand grinder with a cut off wheel in it. Took about 15 seconds per arm. Easy.

cyberstang5.0 · 01-24-2003, 10:54 AM

I have a QA1... and it's ok...

CONS:
I had to cut a little bit off the control arms (like everyone has said)
It moved my tires forward and now my tires rub on the front ground effects

My chassis might be twisted, but I had to redrill the holes in the secondary support brackets just to get the bolts though, and I can only get one of the two bolts in. The primary ones are ok.
When bolting up the primary, it took me forever to get the bolt holes to line up

There are two slots where you can rest your motor on. I am using the front slot and it seams like it pushed my motor back to the firewall an inch or so...
I can't pull the rack and pinion off without lifting the motor (it might be because of my oil pan)

PROS:
It's tublar, so it's very stong.
I like the amount of working room it gave me underneath.
Saved lots of weight.

If I could do it over again, I would check out a different company to see if they would fit better.... if there wasn't, I would go with the one I got.

88PONY · 01-24-2003, 12:51 PM

Has anyone used the SSM one? What about the D+D one with the stock springs and 90/10 drag stuts? My friend got the Hal one and it sux, but he has a crazy combo with a 550ci Chevy

and a single turbo, so I wanna stay away from them.

Thanks

87BOSS351C · 01-24-2003, 01:01 PM

My car has been hit in the front before and the QA1 still bolted right in and everything lined up no problem. I even used plumb bobs to make sure it was in square to the rearend and it was perfect on the first try. May not be the fanciest out there, but for what I'm doing it works fine.

The only thing I have heard about the SSM is other peoples opinions, not direct experiance. The common thought is that since the tube that runs under the pan bolts in it has the potential of weakening the suspension if the bolts come loose. I don't know anyone that runs one so have never heard of this really happening.

88PONY · 01-24-2003, 04:24 PM

Just one more stupid question, how did all you support the engine when the k-member was out? I really want to avoid pulling the motor, cause I just put it back it about a week ago.
I figure an engine crane is just in the way. I know they make those support bars that go from fender to fender, but is there an easier way?

Thanks

sn95gt19 · 01-24-2003, 05:31 PM

i did mine when i had the motor out, i would just extend the hoist all the way out and turn it a little sideways, hopefully there is enough room to get the k member out.

SlowFoxGTvert · 01-24-2003, 05:42 PM

I like the one that Kenny Brown has, But it looks like a ton of money. Good looking piece, though. They say it extends the wheelbase by a little over an inch too. They also said that there were a lot lighter ones on the market, but theirs was strong eneugh for extreme abuse on the track or street. I'm thinking about getting one maybe late this summer.

just my $.02

will

01-23-2003, 10:54 AM	#1
88PONY Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: INDIO CA USA Posts: 141	Best Tubular K-Member???? What do you guys think the best Tubular K-Member is? I like the SSM one due to the fact that you can take the center out todrop the oil pan. What do you guys think? I wanna keep the stock control arms and springs. I don't trust the tubular ones on the bumpy roads of NEW JERSEY. Thanks __________________ 88 Notch Natually aspirated 306 600 carb Edelbrock Victor Jr. Intake and Performer RPM heads 11.5 comp. ATI C-4 8" 4200 stall 4:10's 28x10.5 M/T MAC longtubes/prochamber Dynomax Race magnumss dumped, Caged and ready to go!!! 11.8@115 And remember friends don't let friend drive MOPARS!!!

01-23-2003, 07:57 PM	#2
VeNuM Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Downers Grove, IL Posts: 464	I've heard tubular doesn't hold up on a daily driver. I see that D&D Motorsports sells 2 different ones, a road, street, drag, and a drag only. The SSM is tubular and I haven't heard anything particular about it. The UPR is said to be for drag only cars, these are faint memories so don't take me 100% on this. ~Brian __________________ 1989 Black Mustang GT Hatchback, Underdrive Pulles, Electric Fan, Cold Air Intake, Headers, Offroad H-Pipe, Magnaflow catback, Steeda Tri-Ax, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Timing at 14*, 3.73's Coming not so soon: 408w Ricer Hater's Club Member #59

01-23-2003, 10:00 PM	#3
sn95gt19 motors done......woohooo Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 799	i have heard of people saying that their d+d's didnt fit right, mine fit perfect though. a buddy of mine has the qa1 from summit, fits like a glove too. __________________ 95gt lazer red (98 cobra clone) Rice Haters Club Member #116

01-23-2003, 11:12 PM	#4
VeNuM Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Downers Grove, IL Posts: 464	sn95gt19: How's yours on the street. It looks like a good setup from D&D and I would like to get one on my car but it is street driven. ~Brian __________________ 1989 Black Mustang GT Hatchback, Underdrive Pulles, Electric Fan, Cold Air Intake, Headers, Offroad H-Pipe, Magnaflow catback, Steeda Tri-Ax, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Timing at 14*, 3.73's Coming not so soon: 408w Ricer Hater's Club Member #59

01-23-2003, 11:14 PM	#5
sn95gt19 motors done......woohooo Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 799	mines great on the street havent had any problems "yet". i have the tubular a arms and coil over setup too. __________________ 95gt lazer red (98 cobra clone) Rice Haters Club Member #116

01-24-2003, 08:29 AM	#6
87BOSS351C Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Midland, Michigan Posts: 92	I have the QA1 and it fit great. You do have to modify the stock a arms a little but not anything major. It also moves your wheels forward about 0.75 inches. The paperwork that came with it doesn't say anything about it being drag only. Lots of other guys run them on the street. If they'll hold up in autocross, should take the street no problem. My car won't be on the road till spring, so I haven't personally experianced it on the street. Later __________________ Black '87 LX 5.0 5 spd T-top with 450hp '71 351 Cleveland 4V, C6 tranny, "and some other stuff" Rice Haters Club Member #124

01-24-2003, 09:05 AM	#7
sn95gt19 motors done......woohooo Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 799	my buddy with the qa1 had to grind 1/8th inch off the part that houses the a arm bushing, it was hitting the k member. nothing major though __________________ 95gt lazer red (98 cobra clone) Rice Haters Club Member #116

01-24-2003, 10:21 AM	#8
87BOSS351C Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Midland, Michigan Posts: 92	Yup, that's what I did too. I just used a hand grinder with a cut off wheel in it. Took about 15 seconds per arm. Easy. __________________ Black '87 LX 5.0 5 spd T-top with 450hp '71 351 Cleveland 4V, C6 tranny, "and some other stuff" Rice Haters Club Member #124

01-24-2003, 10:54 AM	#9
cyberstang5.0 347ci of HORSE POWER!!! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,416	I have a QA1... and it's ok... CONS: I had to cut a little bit off the control arms (like everyone has said) It moved my tires forward and now my tires rub on the front ground effects My chassis might be twisted, but I had to redrill the holes in the secondary support brackets just to get the bolts though, and I can only get one of the two bolts in. The primary ones are ok. When bolting up the primary, it took me forever to get the bolt holes to line up There are two slots where you can rest your motor on. I am using the front slot and it seams like it pushed my motor back to the firewall an inch or so... I can't pull the rack and pinion off without lifting the motor (it might be because of my oil pan) PROS: It's tublar, so it's very stong. I like the amount of working room it gave me underneath. Saved lots of weight. If I could do it over again, I would check out a different company to see if they would fit better.... if there wasn't, I would go with the one I got.

01-24-2003, 12:51 PM	#10
88PONY Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: INDIO CA USA Posts: 141	Has anyone used the SSM one? What about the D+D one with the stock springs and 90/10 drag stuts? My friend got the Hal one and it sux, but he has a crazy combo with a 550ci Chevy and a single turbo, so I wanna stay away from them. Thanks __________________ 88 Notch Natually aspirated 306 600 carb Edelbrock Victor Jr. Intake and Performer RPM heads 11.5 comp. ATI C-4 8" 4200 stall 4:10's 28x10.5 M/T MAC longtubes/prochamber Dynomax Race magnumss dumped, Caged and ready to go!!! 11.8@115 And remember friends don't let friend drive MOPARS!!!

01-24-2003, 01:01 PM	#11
87BOSS351C Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Midland, Michigan Posts: 92	My car has been hit in the front before and the QA1 still bolted right in and everything lined up no problem. I even used plumb bobs to make sure it was in square to the rearend and it was perfect on the first try. May not be the fanciest out there, but for what I'm doing it works fine. The only thing I have heard about the SSM is other peoples opinions, not direct experiance. The common thought is that since the tube that runs under the pan bolts in it has the potential of weakening the suspension if the bolts come loose. I don't know anyone that runs one so have never heard of this really happening. __________________ Black '87 LX 5.0 5 spd T-top with 450hp '71 351 Cleveland 4V, C6 tranny, "and some other stuff" Rice Haters Club Member #124

01-24-2003, 04:24 PM	#12
88PONY Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: INDIO CA USA Posts: 141	Just one more stupid question, how did all you support the engine when the k-member was out? I really want to avoid pulling the motor, cause I just put it back it about a week ago. I figure an engine crane is just in the way. I know they make those support bars that go from fender to fender, but is there an easier way? Thanks __________________ 88 Notch Natually aspirated 306 600 carb Edelbrock Victor Jr. Intake and Performer RPM heads 11.5 comp. ATI C-4 8" 4200 stall 4:10's 28x10.5 M/T MAC longtubes/prochamber Dynomax Race magnumss dumped, Caged and ready to go!!! 11.8@115 And remember friends don't let friend drive MOPARS!!!

01-24-2003, 05:31 PM	#13
sn95gt19 motors done......woohooo Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 799	i did mine when i had the motor out, i would just extend the hoist all the way out and turn it a little sideways, hopefully there is enough room to get the k member out. __________________ 95gt lazer red (98 cobra clone) Rice Haters Club Member #116

01-24-2003, 05:42 PM	#14
SlowFoxGTvert Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Racing Capital of the World Posts: 9	best k-member? I like the one that Kenny Brown has, But it looks like a ton of money. Good looking piece, though. They say it extends the wheelbase by a little over an inch too. They also said that there were a lot lighter ones on the market, but theirs was strong eneugh for extreme abuse on the track or street. I'm thinking about getting one maybe late this summer. just my $.02 will

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