equal or unequal shorties
 

I was just wondering whether equal length or unequal shortie headers or better. I know equal lengths are more expensive but which gives more power??? I know there wont be much gain on stock heads but im planning on changing that too. i already have the x-pipe so i cant go with long tubes.

Equal lengths are better over the unequals. But for a street car, you won't see the difference in power. Maybe 2tenths gain in the 1320.

Equals for sure and buy into the BS that they are hard to install etc...

I pull my engine out and drop it back in with the headers still attached to the heads;)

I had both headers on my car. (Mac 1 5/8 equal & unequal length). I felt a huge difference between the two. The equal's gave me more bottom-end and about 2 tenthes in the quarter mile on average. Headers were my first mods I did on my car back in '93. So we are talking about a stock engine with just shortie headers and a off-road H pipe with Flow-masters.
But what do I know?

Only thing with equal lengths is....say goodbye to easy spark plug changes. What used to take one hour for me now is a whole day project. And make sure you have 90 or 45 degree spark plug boots. And I suggest putting boot shields on them. Otherwise, you'll be trashing a set of spark plug wires every 2 months or so.

another vote here for equal. they arent that hard to install and i really didnt have plug issues either.

I had EL shorite 1.5" headers. IMOHO, better than the 1-5/8" ones, on a mostly stock motor. More midrange and where you drive the car.
Thats my story, and I'm stickin' to it.


I also currently use the 1-5/8" longtubes, but thats for an S-trim with TFS Heads/Cam/Intake... Longtubes were worth it in this case.

I have "NO" problems changing spark plugs it takes me 10 minutes tops.

Yep...

Tell me how you do it then please? My spark plug socket and flexible extension won't go around the mess of knots. And if they do I'm not at the right angle to apply enough torque on the ratchet to remove the spark plugs, cause the mechanic who last touched them during the motor assembly tightened the **** out of them.

The trick is to have a 3/8 rachet with a long handle and a head that folds so you can get in those tight places.
Having the right tools are the key!!!!:cool:

What brand are your headers?

I really dont have any problems with BBK equal lengths.

But I dont install the plugs very tight either I am very carefull with my aluminum heads.

Couldn't tell you what brand. The previous owned installed them, and I've tried to since ID them by looking at photos of other brands, but they all look almost the same.

Oh and anyone know a good tool of trick to removing SUPERSTRONG plugwire boots? These MSD's were re-booted and they grab so hard I can grab both hands on it and brace myself against the fender and still can't pull them off. :mad:

Generally twisting the boot first before pulling will aid in removal.:confused:
Good luck

ditto, also, your local parts store sells a conductor gel like substance to put in the boot or on the spark plug when installing for easy removal. I use it and it works great.

Absolutely good point made here, do not over tighten the plugs on aluminum heads!

I've had 4 different sets of headers on my various Mustangs. The BBK 1-5/8" equal length shorty headers were no more of task to change plugs with than any of the other headers. Actually my MAC 1-3/4" equal length long tubes are by far the most work for plug changes... and a MAJOR pain for R&R, but that's the nature of long tube headers.

And as far as R&R of headers, the one piece flange design is the only way to go. I actually welded bar stock between the individual flanges to create a one piece flange on my MAC's. No more leaning on a tube with a pry bar while trying to get a bolt started :mad:

MAC = Most Always Crap :p

Another trick is to not even use a ratchet wrench. Notice how 5/8" spark plug sockets have a 3/4" O.D. hex on the end? Just slip the socket over the plug... then use a 3/4" open end wrench to tighten or loosen.

420....it doesn't have anything to do with the boots sticking. The problem is in the boots themselves. MSD's use that crazy locking setup, and since mine were re-booted, the engaging pieces are super tight. So they're almost impossible to snap on, and equally impossible to pull off.

PWR...that's a good idea...I'm gonna have to try that. I might just get this tuneup over with tomorrow...

Sorry...it just sounded like a problem I once had a long time ago when a friend told me to twist the boot first...:eek: lol

If you're having so many problems with the snap-ring, why don't you just try to expand them with a pair of needle-nose pliers or just simply replace them? If I had those kind of problems...let me tell you, it would've been addressed right away, by either burning them or putting them on a friends car and watch them beat there heads into the wall. lol

Lol well there-in lies the problem... I paid $80 for the wires so I'm definitely not going to toss them. They make the car run awesome compared to, say, Accel universal 8mm's. And the pair of needlenose plyers we used to have were either lost or stolen....so I don't have any. Plus I'd need a very long and slender pair to get in there. Maybe I can get a pair from a friend... It's amazing how the most useful tools are always the ones that 'disappear' eh?

So true, So true.