faulty neutral safety switch???

ultraflo · 06-12-2002, 07:23 PM

I got my stang fired-up today

... but I had to cross the terminals on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver to do so.

I swapped out a Tremec 3550 for a Jerico (which doesn't have any connections for the factory wiring harnesses - speedo, reverse lights, etc.) ...I was wondering if that had anything to do with my problem (which is when I depress the clutch pedal and turn the key nothing happens!), or did my neutral safety switch fail?

EDIT: (brain-dead) - oh yeah, and how do I bypass the neutral safety switch to see if that's what my problem is... I took a quick look and saw two harnesses with three wires going into each - and I figured it would only have two (simple) ...any help greatly appreciated!!

PKRWUD · 06-12-2002, 07:36 PM

Have you checked your clutch pedal switch?

Take care,
-Chris

ultraflo · 06-12-2002, 08:46 PM

...just the guy I was hoping to hear from

Neutral safety switch, clutch pedal switch... I'm starting to get confused!

At this point, it's either the starter solenoid or either of the switches mentioned (are they not one and the same?). I'm gonna try a new solenoid tomorrow, sir, and what exactly would you recommend for "checking" the clutch pedal switch?

I was hoping to be able to jump two wires and bypass the this switch that's not letting me start the Stang without bustin' out a damn screwdriver... BUT, I peeked under the dash and saw the "box" that connects to the side of the clutch pedal and the two harnesses that go to it with three wires in each (as mentioned in first post). Am I looking at the right part? I figured it was the clutch pedal/neutral safety switch because when I depress the clutch pedal, the rod that is housed inside the mechanism moves in conjunction with said pedal.

What should I do, Chris?

jimberg · 06-12-2002, 08:53 PM

The neutral safety switch is what stops your engine from redlining when you push your shifter into neutral with the cruise control on. It's mounted on the tranny.

The speed sensor on your speedo cable is used for cruise control and detecting that you're still rolling so the computer holds the IAB open when you come to a stop. You could stall at stop lights without it.

gtsr515 · 06-12-2002, 08:57 PM

ultraflo · 06-12-2002, 09:08 PM

I haven't any speedo cable...

I haven't any neutral safety switch on the side of my JERICO...

I did see that the AOD's have a neutral safety switch located on the side of them... that is why I was asking the brainiack (sp) PKRWUD to ed-u-muh-cate me on the details of my current situation, but thanks for tryin to help me... I appreciate it!

and HELLO gtsr515

Phantom5oh · 06-12-2002, 09:29 PM

Yes, even stick cars have the wiring for the neutral safety switch. They don't have the actual switch because they don't need it, so Ford grounds it out @ one of the plugs. I can't remember what plug it is, but I had that problem when I did my clutch a few weeks ago. I had to jump the car at the solenoid. The connector to the tranny cracked and it fall apart. I rewired it and now its fine. I would bet it has something to do with one of the wires/connectors thats not hooked up.

ultraflo · 06-12-2002, 10:25 PM

...lets see if I can get this straight

1. speedo cable and wires/harness that connects to middle/front section of the tailhousing (t5/tremec)

2. reverse lights harness located at very rear of tailhousing on tranny

3. a two pin connector that fastens in middle of gear box (could be what I'm looking for - to jump to bypass NSSwitch)

4. and some sort of connection located at the front/top of tranny

...should have kept that tremec manual when I sold my 3550!!

Someone, please, feel free to correct me!

PKRWUD · 06-12-2002, 10:56 PM

There should be a two wire switch mounted on the clutch pedal assembly, with a red/blue wire & a white/pink wire. Unplug it, and set up a DMM to read 20 scale dc volts on the red/blue wire. Turn the key to the start position, and check the meter. It should read battery voltage. If it does not, check your ignition switch. If it does, reattach the plug to the switch, and splice a dmm probe into the white/pink wire beyond the switch, and set up the dmm the same way. Turn the key to start again, and check the voltage. It should be zero. Next depress the clutch pedal, and watch the meter (with the key still in the start position). It should go to battery voltage. If it doesn't, replace the switch, if it doesn't, let me know.

Take care,
-Chris

ultraflo · 06-13-2002, 05:24 PM

Well, Chris, I got 'er fingered out. Here's what I did after thinking about it all last night (actually it was very simple)...

Since I swapped tranny's I figured that the wires that were disconnected from the Tremec (and left disconnected since there are no hook-ups on a Jerico) had something to do with my problem...

I started looking at the colors of the wires that were previously connected to the Tremec and noticed that there was a 4-wire harness with (1)white w/red stripe (1)red w/blue stripe (1)black w/purple stripe and (1) purple w/brown stripe

I cut the harness off and connected the the black and purple wires, turned on the battery switch and had reverse lights. Then I hooked up a toggle switch so I'd have them if I need 'em.

SO, I figured (as soon as I saw them) that the red and white wires had to do with the neutral safety/clutch pedal position switch... wired them together, turned the key and nothing... pushed the clutch pedal to the floor and turned the key and heard the starter turn over (WOO-HOO!!) ...that's it!!!

I sincerely appreciate your input on the matter, and have printed and saved your instructions for checking the switch at the pedal should I have a similar problem in the future... in other words, DAMN YOU'RE SMOOTH!!!

And my next issue... NO HEAD LIGHTS!?!?!?! got any suggestions on this one? ...I got parking lights, turn signals, dash lights, NO flash to pass lights but no blown fuse??? WTF?! I'm wondering how my headlamp switch would go bad...

Whaddaya think???

-Ryan

edit: I would also like to thank the others for their input as well...

jimberg · 06-13-2002, 05:35 PM

The headlight problem is caused by a bad multi-function switch (Turn Signal Switch). Try jiggling it to see if they come on. If not, pull apart the steering column and take a look at it. It's probably all melted.

ultraflo · 06-13-2002, 05:54 PM

I'll see what I can come up with and let ya know...

-Ryan

PKRWUD · 06-13-2002, 05:55 PM

GREAT!! I'm glad you got it figured out. When it comes to electrical repair advice online, there are often several areas to check, but in order to simplify, it's easier to start at one end of the circuit and work to the other. I started at the pedal switch, and the problem was at the tranny end. I'm really glad you figured it out though. Good job!

Take care,
-Chris

ultraflo · 06-13-2002, 11:43 PM

Thanks for the guidance Chris... like I've said before, it's a privilege to have a guy like yourself hangin out here! You set me in the right direction and I thank you!!

I figured out the headlight deal also, pulled the dash panel below the steering wheel (got rid of that damn heavy metal plate that goes behind the plastic one) and the shroud around the wheel and found the culprit... no burnt wires, just a loose connector/harness on the steering column; and believe it or not, I'm not sure how that happened (go figure). The car has only been sitting for 6 months and I have a terrible memory...

Thanks again everyone! I should have some new pics posted next week on my MustangWorks webpage (Jerico install, center console mod for Long V-gate shifter, motor in car, etc.)

Laters!

Ryan

PKRWUD · 06-14-2002, 02:19 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ultraflo
I figured out the headlight deal also

Feels pretty damn good, doesn't it!

Thanks for the kind words!

Take care,
-Chris

06-12-2002, 07:23 PM	#1
ultraflo NX dealer-man Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Peoria, Illinois Posts: 977	faulty neutral safety switch??? I got my stang fired-up today... but I had to cross the terminals on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver to do so. I swapped out a Tremec 3550 for a Jerico (which doesn't have any connections for the factory wiring harnesses - speedo, reverse lights, etc.) ...I was wondering if that had anything to do with my problem (which is when I depress the clutch pedal and turn the key nothing happens!), or did my neutral safety switch fail? EDIT: (brain-dead) - oh yeah, and how do I bypass the neutral safety switch to see if that's what my problem is... I took a quick look and saw two harnesses with three wires going into each - and I figured it would only have two (simple) ...any help greatly appreciated!! __________________ RLS Racing! 93 LX 9.20 @ 147mph 03 Mach 1 12.39 @ 116mph

06-12-2002, 07:36 PM	#2
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Have you checked your clutch pedal switch? Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

06-12-2002, 08:46 PM	#3
ultraflo NX dealer-man Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Peoria, Illinois Posts: 977	Mr. PKRWUD:) ...just the guy I was hoping to hear from Neutral safety switch, clutch pedal switch... I'm starting to get confused! At this point, it's either the starter solenoid or either of the switches mentioned (are they not one and the same?). I'm gonna try a new solenoid tomorrow, sir, and what exactly would you recommend for "checking" the clutch pedal switch? I was hoping to be able to jump two wires and bypass the this switch that's not letting me start the Stang without bustin' out a damn screwdriver... BUT, I peeked under the dash and saw the "box" that connects to the side of the clutch pedal and the two harnesses that go to it with three wires in each (as mentioned in first post). Am I looking at the right part? I figured it was the clutch pedal/neutral safety switch because when I depress the clutch pedal, the rod that is housed inside the mechanism moves in conjunction with said pedal. What should I do, Chris? __________________ RLS Racing! 93 LX 9.20 @ 147mph 03 Mach 1 12.39 @ 116mph

06-12-2002, 08:53 PM	#4
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	The neutral safety switch is what stops your engine from redlining when you push your shifter into neutral with the cruise control on. It's mounted on the tranny. The speed sensor on your speedo cable is used for cruise control and detecting that you're still rolling so the computer holds the IAB open when you come to a stop. You could stall at stop lights without it. __________________ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

06-12-2002, 08:57 PM	#5
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	NOT! __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

06-12-2002, 09:08 PM	#6
ultraflo NX dealer-man Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Peoria, Illinois Posts: 977	I haven't any speedo cable... I haven't any neutral safety switch on the side of my JERICO... I did see that the AOD's have a neutral safety switch located on the side of them... that is why I was asking the brainiack (sp) PKRWUD to ed-u-muh-cate me on the details of my current situation, but thanks for tryin to help me... I appreciate it! and HELLO gtsr515 __________________ RLS Racing! 93 LX 9.20 @ 147mph 03 Mach 1 12.39 @ 116mph

06-12-2002, 09:29 PM	#7
Phantom5oh Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Boston, MA Posts: 334	Yes, even stick cars have the wiring for the neutral safety switch. They don't have the actual switch because they don't need it, so Ford grounds it out @ one of the plugs. I can't remember what plug it is, but I had that problem when I did my clutch a few weeks ago. I had to jump the car at the solenoid. The connector to the tranny cracked and it fall apart. I rewired it and now its fine. I would bet it has something to do with one of the wires/connectors thats not hooked up. __________________ 95 GTS 03 DR 650SE Sgarzi's Machine Works

06-12-2002, 10:25 PM	#8
ultraflo NX dealer-man Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Peoria, Illinois Posts: 977	...lets see if I can get this straight 1. speedo cable and wires/harness that connects to middle/front section of the tailhousing (t5/tremec) 2. reverse lights harness located at very rear of tailhousing on tranny 3. a two pin connector that fastens in middle of gear box (could be what I'm looking for - to jump to bypass NSSwitch) 4. and some sort of connection located at the front/top of tranny ...should have kept that tremec manual when I sold my 3550!! Someone, please, feel free to correct me! __________________ RLS Racing! 93 LX 9.20 @ 147mph 03 Mach 1 12.39 @ 116mph

06-12-2002, 10:56 PM	#9
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	There should be a two wire switch mounted on the clutch pedal assembly, with a red/blue wire & a white/pink wire. Unplug it, and set up a DMM to read 20 scale dc volts on the red/blue wire. Turn the key to the start position, and check the meter. It should read battery voltage. If it does not, check your ignition switch. If it does, reattach the plug to the switch, and splice a dmm probe into the white/pink wire beyond the switch, and set up the dmm the same way. Turn the key to start again, and check the voltage. It should be zero. Next depress the clutch pedal, and watch the meter (with the key still in the start position). It should go to battery voltage. If it doesn't, replace the switch, if it doesn't, let me know. Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

06-13-2002, 05:24 PM	#10
ultraflo NX dealer-man Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Peoria, Illinois Posts: 977	Well, Chris, I got 'er fingered out. Here's what I did after thinking about it all last night (actually it was very simple)... Since I swapped tranny's I figured that the wires that were disconnected from the Tremec (and left disconnected since there are no hook-ups on a Jerico) had something to do with my problem... I started looking at the colors of the wires that were previously connected to the Tremec and noticed that there was a 4-wire harness with (1)white w/red stripe (1)red w/blue stripe (1)black w/purple stripe and (1) purple w/brown stripe I cut the harness off and connected the the black and purple wires, turned on the battery switch and had reverse lights. Then I hooked up a toggle switch so I'd have them if I need 'em. SO, I figured (as soon as I saw them) that the red and white wires had to do with the neutral safety/clutch pedal position switch... wired them together, turned the key and nothing... pushed the clutch pedal to the floor and turned the key and heard the starter turn over (WOO-HOO!!) ...that's it!!! I sincerely appreciate your input on the matter, and have printed and saved your instructions for checking the switch at the pedal should I have a similar problem in the future... in other words, *DAMN YOU'RE SMOOTH!!!* And my next issue... NO HEAD LIGHTS!?!?!?! got any suggestions on this one? ...I got parking lights, turn signals, dash lights, NO flash to pass lights but no blown fuse??? WTF?! I'm wondering how my headlamp switch would go bad... Whaddaya think??? -Ryan edit: I would also like to thank the others for their input as well... __________________ RLS Racing! 93 LX 9.20 @ 147mph 03 Mach 1 12.39 @ 116mph Last edited by ultraflo; 06-13-2002 at 05:31 PM..

06-13-2002, 05:35 PM	#11
jimberg Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Rogers, MN Posts: 2,089	The headlight problem is caused by a bad multi-function switch (Turn Signal Switch). Try jiggling it to see if they come on. If not, pull apart the steering column and take a look at it. It's probably all melted. __________________ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

06-13-2002, 05:54 PM	#12
ultraflo NX dealer-man Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Peoria, Illinois Posts: 977	I'll see what I can come up with and let ya know... -Ryan __________________ RLS Racing! 93 LX 9.20 @ 147mph 03 Mach 1 12.39 @ 116mph

06-13-2002, 05:55 PM	#13
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	GREAT!! I'm glad you got it figured out. When it comes to electrical repair advice online, there are often several areas to check, but in order to simplify, it's easier to start at one end of the circuit and work to the other. I started at the pedal switch, and the problem was at the tranny end. I'm really glad you figured it out though. Good job! Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

06-13-2002, 11:43 PM	#14
ultraflo NX dealer-man Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Peoria, Illinois Posts: 977	Thanks for the guidance Chris... like I've said before, it's a privilege to have a guy like yourself hangin out here! You set me in the right direction and I thank you!! I figured out the headlight deal also, pulled the dash panel below the steering wheel (got rid of that damn heavy metal plate that goes behind the plastic one) and the shroud around the wheel and found the culprit... no burnt wires, just a loose connector/harness on the steering column; and believe it or not, I'm not sure how that happened (go figure). The car has only been sitting for 6 months and I have a terrible memory... Thanks again everyone! I should have some new pics posted next week on my MustangWorks webpage (Jerico install, center console mod for Long V-gate shifter, motor in car, etc.) Laters! Ryan __________________ RLS Racing! 93 LX 9.20 @ 147mph 03 Mach 1 12.39 @ 116mph

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