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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: The South, USA
Posts: 143
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![]() Hey everyone!
My 1966 Mustang joined the ranks of the running today as I picked it up fresh from it's brake job (and it needed the choke fixed). So far, I have about $3500 invested including the base car, and I have something that I can drive! Now for the questions. I have the following repairs I need made quickly. Please advise: 1) the turn signal relay appears to be stuck in the "closed" position, i.e. it turns the light on, but doesn't flick off. How to replace it? 2) the backup lights are sitting in the trunk. I need to re-mount them and get them working. Wiring? This should get me through inspection. Next questions are these: 3) The transmission has a rattling noise. When I put my hand on the stick, it goes away. Should I have this tightened/adjusted, and is this something I can do in an apartment without any real space to work. 4) Speedometer seems to only engage when I go fast (i.e. interstate speeds), and my top speed so far has been 40mph (yeah, right). opinions/difficulty to fix? 5) The engine temperature gauge seems to not work at all (always cold). Difficulty to fix? now, I know I may have to tear the dashboard out at some point for this work. That's ok, since I'll have to replace the dashboard pad. Look forward to your advice and help. Thanks again! |
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#2 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1
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![]() Quote:
Traigo |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Hampton, Virginia
Posts: 227
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![]() You can always go and but new bushings for your shifter for a few bucks. Check mustangs plus. As far as your speedo cable is concerned. It could be loose at your gauge cluster or your transmission. Could be a bad cable or the gear at the end of the cable thats goes into the trans. could be worn out. Your turn signal relay is under the drivers side of the dash. One inch round cylinder. You can find the relay at any auto store for under 5 bucks. All of these things you can do at your apartment and relatively inexpensive.
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1980 RX7 with 289 Ford V-8 bored .030 over, Very radical cam, Torker 2 high rise intake, Holley 650 Carb, MSD Nascar 6ALN ignition, MSD coil and distributor, Headers with dual open side exhaust. Over 300 horse. 1966 Mustang still in progress |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Hampton, Virginia
Posts: 227
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![]() Oh yeah, backup lights. you just need to get a wiring manual: either ford factory or a haynes and little playing around and youll get it. just make sure the backup sensor on the transmission isn't bad. Just be sure to use a voltage meter to make things easier. Saftey!! Saftey!! Saftey!! Saftey!! Saftey!! if you do any of this since you will be behind or underneath of the car while it is out of gear. Saftey!! Saftey!! Saftey!! Saftey!!
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1980 RX7 with 289 Ford V-8 bored .030 over, Very radical cam, Torker 2 high rise intake, Holley 650 Carb, MSD Nascar 6ALN ignition, MSD coil and distributor, Headers with dual open side exhaust. Over 300 horse. 1966 Mustang still in progress |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: The South, USA
Posts: 143
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![]() Thanks!
One new item popped up. The Highbeam switch gets stuck. Looks like a simple replace, but I would like to make sure. I'm going to get some blocks to make sure the car doesn't roll while working (would bricks be ok), and I plan on having someone around if I do any work that requires me to be under the hood or under the car. As Zach0 said... Safety Safety Safety! |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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![]() You won't need to remove the dash pad for any of this. The instrument panel bezel comes out with about 6 screws with everything still attatched. Put a towel over the top of the steering column so as not to scratch it up.
The only reason you may even need to remove that is if you replace the speedometer cable or the speedometer gauge itself. Rev
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'66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Hampton, Virginia
Posts: 227
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![]() The high beam switch is also an easy task that should take you 10 mins or less. Go ahead and takle it.
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1980 RX7 with 289 Ford V-8 bored .030 over, Very radical cam, Torker 2 high rise intake, Holley 650 Carb, MSD Nascar 6ALN ignition, MSD coil and distributor, Headers with dual open side exhaust. Over 300 horse. 1966 Mustang still in progress |
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#8 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: The South, USA
Posts: 143
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![]() Quote:
Ammendum: OK. I need a manual transmission kit. Goes for about $35 instead of $4. That has bushings and springs... Now, I won't have to drop the tranny to do this, right? I think I'll pick up Chilton's guide tonight. time to do some reading myself. |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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![]() A Ford shop manual is a great investment. About $35 from the classic Mustang parts houses. It goes into a lot of detail. I couldn't get along without it.
Rev
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'66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 245
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![]() No you wont haveto drop the tranny to fix the linkage bushings. But, you will have to get it up in the air. Unless you're real skinny and can squeeze underneath. Jackstands and chocks are in order. It's an easy rebuild, but due to the lack of space under there it could take awhile.
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1970 Stang Conv: en:Boss351 (balanced/blueprinted) mech cam(240*@.050/.540 lift) Scrw in studs/comp cams rllr rkr Mldn valves 2.19in 1.71ex ported polished cc'd hrdnd ex Keith Black FT pistons(10.25/1) Weiand Excellorator manifold Holley700 DP mech 2nds MSD 6 box and Dis Headers/2 1/2 inch duels tr: modified FMX re:9-inch/3.89 limited slip |
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#11 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: The South, USA
Posts: 143
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![]() Quote:
Well, I'll see if I can get the garage I had some of the work done already to help me out on this. It's a low priority at this point, since the car does run. |
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