Finally A Run With Nitrous But Inconsistent? Whats Wrong With These Times???

[1jimmy__d]

ok i found ther screen and it was clear of any debris. I went and tried it again and felt nothing. i am thinking that i need to buy a "bottle pressure gauge?" IF the pressure becomes low (according to the gauge), how do i increase the pressure anyways? I hope this thing will work soon as the summer is coming to an end.

[zepherman]

I have the NOS 5115 dry kit set to 75hp. When i instaled the kit i went from 14.2 to 13.2 on street radials with no suspension mods. I dint have the gears or subframes then. If you have he 5115 kit, where i the spray nozzle installed? Make shure the nozzle is spraing straight in the direction of the incomig air flow. You could use a DMM set to ohms to test your pressure switch. You dont really need to purge. I just arm the system and do a quick burst of nitrous on the burnout before my first run. That will get all of the air out of the line. Remember never to activate the nitrous below 3000 rpm.

[bigblockcoupe]

if the bottle pressure is low you can only raise it by heating the bottle. to see if you are getting nitrous to the intake with the car off just disconnect the nitrous line from the nozzle and turn all the switches on then hold the line away from yourself or anything else and engage the throttle wide open by hand if it sprays it is probably a fuel delivery problem so i would start checking the vacuum lines to the fuel pressure switch and electrical connections to the second solenoid.

[bigblockcoupe]

Originally posted by zepherman
I have the NOS 5115 dry kit set to 75hp. When i instaled the kit i went from 14.2 to 13.2 on street radials with no suspension mods. I dint have the gears or subframes then. If you have he 5115 kit, where i the spray nozzle installed? Make shure the nozzle is spraing straight in the direction of the incomig air flow. You could use a DMM set to ohms to test your pressure switch. You dont really need to purge. I just arm the system and do a quick burst of nitrous on the burnout before my first run. That will get all of the air out of the line. Remember never to activate the nitrous below 3000 rpm.

and don't ever use it in 5th gear(long story)

[fiveohpatrol]

Are you not sure which kit you have? I would like to know to help you out a little easier.

I have an idea to possibly help.

First, disconnect the nitrous line from the throttle body. Then bypass the fuel pressure safety switch by just connecting the 2 wires together. Then have someone sit in the driver's seat with the key on (car off) and the toggle switch ON. Then hold the nitrous line (with a rag, cause it will be cold) pointing away from you and the car, and tell your helper to floor it. This should activate the system and spray nitrous through the line. This will let you know if the line is clogged or not. If you are unsure, then just remove the bottle from your trunk and then briefly open the valve to compare the flow of nitrous. It will be a slightly different amount because of the orifice size, but you will be able to tell if enough is coming into the engine.


Bottle pressure will normally go down as the bottle starts to get empty. But also, temperature has ALOT to do with the pressure. If the bottle is cold, then the pressure will go down, and therefore it wont spray as hard and hp will decrease.

I was actually talking to a shop owner today about this and he said he's actually seen bottle pressure get upwards to 1500psi with only 2-3lbs of nitrous in the bottle. It was just that hot.
Just think of a pressure cooker: higher pressure=hotter food

[1jimmy__d]

Big Black- You say to disconnect the line directly from the bottle in the trunk?, then disconnect the line that goes to the manifold, then floor it to see if it works? I want to be sure before i try it! your saying that it should NOt spray right? if it does, then check the vacuum lines?

[1jimmy__d]

fiveoh i just saw your reply after i responded. it is the 5115 kit. I am going to try it now to see what happens. hope i dont blow up!

[bigblockcoupe]

no disconnect it from the nozzle in the throttlebody then floor it but make sure the nozzle isn't pointed at anything. and that would be bigblock not bigblack.

[1jimmy__d]

Sorry Big BLOCK!
I did exactly as mentioned above. I connected the two wires. unscrewed the line to the TB. Turn accessories on and nitrous switch on. punched it and nothing came out at all! I then reconnected everything and went to the trunk. went to un screw the line after turning the bottle to off and could feel a TON of pressure coming out (turned to ice quick). I then just tightened it right back up.
Anyone live in Rochester NY that can come over and fix this piece of crap??????

[fiveohpatrol]

Well there is either a wiring problem, your WOT switch isn't being triggered, or one of your solenoids has gone bad.

I'd first check the WOT microswitch as it would be the easiest to fix.
Just remove your air inlet hose to the throttle body, then you'll see the switch mounted to a bent arm thats bolted to the lower right TB bolt. Have someone hold the throttle all the way open (with the car off ofcourse) or just put a block of wood to hold the pedal down, and then check to make sure the linkage underneath the throttle body is hitting the switch all the way. If not, then just adjust the arm until the switch makes a click noise right when you are at WOT (wide open throttle).

Check this first and make sure its clicking.

Oh, and do you have a testlight? If the WOT is being depressed at WOT, and you dont have a testlight, then you'll need one if you wanna get it working.

[1jimmy__d]

well when i checked for nitrous spraying out from the line to the TB I noticed that it was touching the WOT microswitch, BUT i did not hear a clicking sound. Does that mean i need to adjust the switch (even though it is making contact already)? I bought this kit like a few months ago. Do you think the solenoid could go bad this early, and if so, any chance Jegs would cover the replacement cost? What a pain. What should be my next step (if I can get a light to test it)? thanks for everyones help in this pita matter!

neone live in rochester ny?

[fiveohpatrol]

push the WOT microswitch by hand and listen for the click, if you dont hear that when it is floored, then that is your problem.

Try the same testing method as before, but disconnect the 2 terminals from the WOT switch. Turn the arming switch on with your key on while someone is holding the nitrous line that has been disconnected from the intake tube and see if it works then.

[1jimmy__d]

ok, i pushed the microswitch by hand and heard the click coming from the switch itself when it was depressed. i also heard like a high pitch beep sound quickly right after. then i could tell that nitrous was going through the lines, but not out of the line that leads to the TB. I clicked it a few times and heard the nitrous flowing through the lines but again not coming out into the air (where I had the line pointed) i heard clicks coming from the solenoids as well i think. Plus no nitrous sprayed out. i then disconnected the two wires leading to the switch and activated it by the toggle and nothing happened at all again. this tells me that the switch is ok, right? IT must be a solenoid, cause the lines are clear of debris. If it is, this is a piece of crap being a few months old!

[fiveohpatrol]

i know it may seem like a dumb question, but do you have the bottle valve open while you are trying all of this?

Did you make sure that your TB linkage is activating the WOT switch?

This is starting to be a little diffucult to help with like this. I'd take it to your mechanic, tell him what all you've tested and go from there.

[1jimmy__d]

yes the bottle was open during testing. ill try and call him. i think he willl still be out of town . thanks for everyones help.