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07-25-2001, 09:26 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts
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First time fire up..boy is she hot!
I forgot to metion that The engine is running real hot. I have no thermostat and just running water through the radiator (only temporary) but she is real hot after only a few minutes of running around 2500 RPM's. Also I got a lot of smoke which I assume is the paint and stuff wearing off. Any ideas as to why she dies when I back off the gas and won't start without me pressing down on the throttle?? Thanks again!
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07-26-2001, 06:23 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Milan, OH
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I'd bet that you've got the distributor stabbed one tooth off. If the ignition timing is real retarded (say 4^BTC or less), the fuel will be burning in the exhaust ports and header tubes. You'll see the headers start to glow when this is the case. It also would explain why you've got to stay in the gas to keep it running. Double-check your timing.
------------------ Jeff Chambers Trophy Stock #3 11.462 Seconds / 117.43 MPH Chambers Racing Team |
07-26-2001, 09:09 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts
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Jeff- I'll have my engine builder check the timing again. You are probably right. But what about the TPS sensor? I bought mine new and doesn't it need to be adjusted by loosening the circle screws on the top of the TB?
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07-26-2001, 10:25 AM | #4 |
Sniffed too much n20
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Ont, Canada
Posts: 1,018
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When I built my current engine, I just left it open headers, because all that assembly lube, oil, etc will get burnt out and cause one nasty cloud of smoke. I too had my timing 4 degrees out, but fixed that and it ran great ever since.
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07-26-2001, 11:37 AM | #5 |
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Yep, just turn the key to the ON position and stab the green and black wires. TPS voltage should be right around 0.99V. You may have to elongate the holes to get it there. Then open the throttle all the way and look at the WOT value. I think it should be around 4.5V full scale.
------------------ Jeff Chambers Trophy Stock #3 11.462 Seconds / 117.43 MPH Chambers Racing Team |
07-26-2001, 11:48 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts
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Is there anything else that I should check? What other sensors control idle? I don't have any check engine light on so whatever is wrong can't be that bad right?
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07-26-2001, 12:15 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Rogers, MN
Posts: 2,089
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Stang_ROTY,
Did you see my post on idle in your other thread? As far as the heat issue goes, are you at 2500 with it sitting in the driveway or are you driving it? I'm assuming your just sitting in the driveway. Without a thermostat and without air moving past the radiator there isn't really a way for the engine to regulate the water temp. It's just going to get hotter and hotter. I wouldn't worry about it until you have a properly configured cooling system. What kind of fan do you have? Is the fan clutch working? Your TPS will not cause excessive heat. If, however, you have a sensor that isn't hooked up that should be, the computer may stay in open loop mode. If the calibration of your MAF and open loop tables are too lean for your setup, that could cause you to generate excess heat. Your computer will never adapt to a richer air/fuel ratio unless you can go into closed loop mode. Where did you wind up screwing in the ECT sensor? Without it, the computer will definitely stay in open loop mode. I'm thinking that this topic is getting a little too spread out. You might want to create a new thread telling us what parts you have and don't have (sensors, emissions, etc. ) and what your current status is. Then we should try to keep all of the questions under there. Title it "Stang_ROTY's Project Status" or something. I can't keep up with all the topics. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible |
07-26-2001, 03:02 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts
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Great idea. Keep an eye out for the new thread. Thanks
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