Just an FYI on AutoMeter Mechanical Water Temp Gauge Install

[RED92LX50]

The gauge comes with a 1/2" adapter - you will need the 3/8" adapter in order to put the sensor into the stock electrical sender location. Hope this save someone else the frustration of not being able to finish an otherwise easy install.

[lx mike]

just happened to me, just went to a local speed shop and they had it in stock.

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93-LX: 5 Speed, Flow's with H-Pipe, 3.73's, C&L 76MM Kit, Sub's and K&N.
14.722@ 98.24

[1989_351W]

Thanks for the info...
bought my guages yesterday, will have to go get the adapter!

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Michael Wigton
1989 351 Windsor
1964 1/2 Convertible

[Five0]

You can get at any automotive store, I got mine from NAPA and I believe it is a 3/8 to 1/8 npt adapter.
I just did mine about a week ago.


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James Cox
nochevy@hotmail.com
1991 Mustang LX
12.565 @109.38mph 1.764 60ft

[ByrdPE]

I installed mine in the thermo housing so I could retain the stock gauges also.:P

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FMS 373,Mac U/D Pullies,B&M shift kit,B&M Trans cooler,
KYB's,FMS 65mm T/B,Moroso cold air kit,75mm Bullet,BBK sub frame connectors,Power-slotted rotors w/performance friction pads
PST performance sway-bar kit,3G alternator,Maximum Motorsports Strut tower brace,Maximum Motorsports G-Load brace
Maximum Motorsports lower control arms,Autometer,oil,H2O,
volt MSD6AL,MSD Blaster coil,'Tiny Avenger'intake pipe

[RED92LX50]

Maybe a dumb question...why would you want to retain the stock gauge(s)? I have replaced all 4 of the side factory gauges - and covered those areas with black plastic. It didn't make much sense to me to keep the electrical factory gauges in addition to more accurate mechanical ones.

[ByrdPE]

Originally posted by RED92LX50:
Maybe a dumb question...why would you want to retain the stock gauge(s)? I have replaced all 4 of the side factory gauges - and covered those areas with black plastic. It didn't make much sense to me to keep the electrical factory gauges in addition to more accurate mechanical ones.

No dead gauges and no black plastic.



------------------
FMS 373,Mac U/D Pullies,B&M shift kit,B&M Trans cooler,
KYB's,FMS 65mm T/B,Moroso cold air kit,75mm Bullet,BBK sub frame connectors,Power-slotted rotors w/performance friction pads
PST performance sway-bar kit,3G alternator,Maximum Motorsports Strut tower brace,Maximum Motorsports G-Load brace
Maximum Motorsports lower control arms,Autometer,oil,H2O,
volt MSD6AL,MSD Blaster coil,'Tiny Avenger'intake pipe

[White GT]

Originally posted by ByrdPE
[B]I installed mine in the thermo housing so I could retain the stock gauges also.:P

Where is it please!!

[Mach 1]

Originally posted by RED92LX50
Maybe a dumb question...why would you want to retain the stock gauge(s)? I have replaced all 4 of the side factory gauges - and covered those areas with black plastic. It didn't make much sense to me to keep the electrical factory gauges in addition to more accurate mechanical ones.

If one fails, you have a back up.

Why the popularity of mechanical gauges around here? Electrical are vastly superior for obvious reasons, and just as accurate.

[RED92LX50]

Wow, a blast from the past!

To each their own - Electrical -vs- Mechanical... "vastly superior" - I don't agree. When I bought my gauges 2 years ago, they didn't make an electrical Vacuum gauge (maybe they do now, and all of the electric gauges were partial sweep (as opposed to the mechanical having a much wider sweep). Also, when running at the track, it is nice to watch the Temperature gauge without the key in the ignition. Also, with electrical, you have two points of failure (the gauge and the sender) with mechanical there is only one (the gauge).

I don't see why anyone would be so adamant about one over the other, it is a personal choice to make after weighing what factors are important to you with your setup. I agree 100%, that any aftermarket gauge will be better than the stock junk... this way you avoid the classic "I think I am running hot, my needle is near the "N" in NORMAL - or is it the "L"...." funny stuff!

Just one other note (from personal experience) - mechanical gauges are not suseptible to certain electrical problems. I had a bad battery drain about two years ago, and as the volts would approach 9V (OK, on an electric AutoMeter gauge , the tach needle started bouncing around all over the place - I would guess because it had insufficient voltage to run properly... but my Oil Pressure, Water Temp, and Vac gauge all functioned properly...until around 8V where my fuel pump shut down!

[drudis]

Once upon a time the electicals only had a smaller sweep, and the mechanicals had a 270 degree sweep. More "accurate" in that you had a bigger range.
Mechanicals are harder to install, but still work when the engine stalls, or when you are in the pits to see where you stand...
Its all a matter of preference.

[Mach 1]

Originally posted by RED92LX50


, with electrical, you have two points of failure (the gauge and the sender) with mechanical there is only one (the gauge).

I think you forgot the line (that could possibly leak inside the car, not only being very dangerous, but making a mess) and the fitting at either end which could leak.

Electrical are safer, easier to install, and just as accurate. I dont see any reason for mechanical.

If your electrical system is failing, you have bigger problems than your gauges

later

[RED92LX50]

Here's mine - in the dark garage unfortunately...

[RED92LX50]

Mach 1 - I bet you are a member of the "Fake Cobra Wheels are for Fags Club" too

I'm glad you like your electrical gauges, I really like my mechanical ones AND my electrical ones! If installed properly, no leaks at either end.

True electrical problems were severe, but at least I knew I still had Oil running through my engine...

[Mach 1]

Originally posted by RED92LX50
Mach 1 - I bet you are a member of the "Fake Cobra Wheels are for Fags Club" too

Yeah, Ok, whatever dude, say some more stupid crap, that will help you out here...duh

Originally posted by RED92LX50
True electrical problems were severe, but at least I knew I still had Oil running through my engine... [/B]

Yeah, you usually will still have oil running through your engine, even when you have an electrical system problem, which should be very rare in the first place.

If mechanical floats your boat, fine, but dont deny that electrical have thier advantages .

What do you think aircraft use? They have more things to worry about including accuracy and saftey than you have in a car, and they use electrical.

[Coolbreeze]

I have both electrical and mechanical. I run and electric temp and mechanical oil pres with braided line. The resaon is, I already had the oil pressure gauge and had to buy a new temp gauge. The line with the probe on the mech temp gauge broke and had to buy a new gauge any way. This is the 2nd one that did this to me, one was on my old 88GT. So I figured I would try and electrical this time. It works good and I can't complain. But I do like the electrical for the ease of install, and worrying about the probe line,by bending into place only to have it break.

And for the people who run a mech oil pressure gauge , I highly recommend the braided line. The cheap plastic on that comes in the kit sucks. I had one break in my 88 on the pillar and it made a mess. If I ever do buy a new oil pressure gauge it will be electrical also. But that is just my preference...... It all boils down to a matter of prefrence really...