Suspension Opinions-Long

95Convert · 01-27-2001, 11:17 PM

I have a very lightly modified (K&N, 3.73 gear, Underdrives, 2 1/4 flowmasters) '95 GT Conv. I am looking to upgrade in time for the summer. I am starting with the chassis, then moving on to the drivetrain. It will be a daily driver/stoplight car, so I don't want a super-stiff combo. What do you recommend that will best put the future power to the ground? Keep in mind, I have a set of 17x11 Centerlines in the back with 315/35-17 GSC's.

jonnyk · 01-28-2001, 12:21 AM

Are you looking for handling or drag suspension? I would start at a minimum with a set of subframe connectors, and a good set of rear lower control arms (like WMS Racing, or Steeda...something to that effect). After that, springs and struts along with caster/camber plates would be a good move (depending on whether you're looking for handling or a drag setup).

------------------
1991 LX Hatch 5.0L

Skankin · 01-28-2001, 02:58 PM

A good set of subframe connectors for sure (WMS, Griggs, Global west, Kenny Brown, Maximum Motorsports). If you keep the stock k-member, a 4pt chassis brace is great too.

Just adding lowering springs will lower your centre of gravity, but it lowers the roll center even more (cause of the lower control arm angle). To make up for it, you gotta add some stiffer springs.

I did a budget approach with FMS5300B springs, KYB shocks, front LCA urethane bushings (really helps maintain alignment, nice turn in response, but really gives you the NVH). I was more concerned with handling than hooking, and I haven't done anything but springs & shocks out back.

If you went a similar route, I'd recommend the FMS5300C springs. The 600# springs will reduce body roll, help keep the inside tire down, and you feel the bumps with the LCA bushings anyway. The rear springs are the same 200-300# progressive, so you won't deteriorate the ride much.

Since you're starting from scratch, I say to do it right. Griggs has a great coil-over front setup, ground-pounder is a little cheaper, and maximum motorsports is comming out with a K-member. All of these kits improve the geometry, so you won't need rock hard springs to keep the body from rolling over. Plus, they take some weight off the front (often 100# or so).

If you don't wanna get into k-members & stuff (labour might be expensive if you can't do it yourself), www.ajeracing.com has a nice setup. For $999 you get a 2" dropped spindle, coil-overs & cc plates. This gives you the drop, but retains the geometry & suspension travel. It'll take a little weight off the front, and if you wanna shed some more #, adding their k-member & A-arms will remove 150# total. I'm thinking about this setup myself (there seems to be quite a few drag cars using it too).

I'm not sure what springs they use, but a 300# coilover would probably be good for you (assuming you use one of these kits that provides proper geometry). That's about the same as a 450# spring in the stock location... the stock springs are about 425#.

If you use coil-overs with your stock k-member & spindles, you'll wanna go stiffer to maintain your handling, and so you don't bottom out (since the lowering would reduce your suspension travel).

Out back, I'd start with some good LCA's, and keep the uppers. Again, I'd put out a little extra for a coil-over setup. The adjustability would certainly be worth it. One thing that is often overlooked, is that this removes some of the stress from the torque box (which should REALLY be welded up when you do the subframes).

Griggs & Ground pounder have complete kits, but if you're handy, you can do it yourself a little cheaper. These guys have some really good pricies:
http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=343

I'd keep the stock UCA's, unless you really wanted to improve handling... then a MM torque arm and panhard bar would be the way to go.

The stock 4 link gives you a ton of anti-squat, so with some better LCA's, it'll hook well. Problems are: it gives you a HIGH rear roll center (which overloads the front outside wheel in a turn), and the UCA's yield AWEFUL brake jacking (which leads to the nose-dive effect). Also, it binds a lot, which is why the rear springs are so soft.

If you go to the TA/PHB with stiffer springs, you'll be able to put an adult in the back, without it bottoming out. I've removed the pinion snubber for added travel, but now it bottoms on the axle stops, which is pretty harsh.

Obviously it depends how much ya wanna spend, and what's most important to you. People will often say to stick with one provider, but if you know what you're doing, you can tailor the setup to your own needs.

Griggs has been race-proven, and you pay for that. Maximum motorsports is great quality, but maybe a little more for the curves than what you're looking for. Steeda's got a nice 5link, which would be really nice, but it's rather pricie. Ground pounder's stuff is a great deal, but the customer service seems to be lacking (from what people have said).
www.corner-carvers.com has some good posts... as does the corner carver board here.

Since I haven't done much to my rear suspension, I'm actually thinking about getting crazy, and picking up a used cobra IRS. They don't hook as well, but the ride quality is a lot better, and you can get it a lot lower too!

------------------
'89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 155K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, MarkVIII fan, Variflow controller, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, conv. motor mounts, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, polli

Skankin · 01-28-2001, 03:07 PM

Also, if you do the k-member, get some convertible motor mounts. THey're firmer, and lower the engine about 1".

01-27-2001, 11:17 PM	#1
95Convert Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 123	Suspension Opinions-Long I have a very lightly modified (K&N, 3.73 gear, Underdrives, 2 1/4 flowmasters) '95 GT Conv. I am looking to upgrade in time for the summer. I am starting with the chassis, then moving on to the drivetrain. It will be a daily driver/stoplight car, so I don't want a super-stiff combo. What do you recommend that will best put the future power to the ground? Keep in mind, I have a set of 17x11 Centerlines in the back with 315/35-17 GSC's.

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01-28-2001, 12:21 AM	#2
jonnyk Being stroked is great Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 772	Are you looking for handling or drag suspension? I would start at a minimum with a set of subframe connectors, and a good set of rear lower control arms (like WMS Racing, or Steeda...something to that effect). After that, springs and struts along with caster/camber plates would be a good move (depending on whether you're looking for handling or a drag setup). ------------------ 1991 LX Hatch 5.0L

01-28-2001, 02:58 PM	#3
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	A good set of subframe connectors for sure (WMS, Griggs, Global west, Kenny Brown, Maximum Motorsports). If you keep the stock k-member, a 4pt chassis brace is great too. Just adding lowering springs will lower your centre of gravity, but it lowers the roll center even more (cause of the lower control arm angle). To make up for it, you gotta add some stiffer springs. I did a budget approach with FMS5300B springs, KYB shocks, front LCA urethane bushings (really helps maintain alignment, nice turn in response, but really gives you the NVH). I was more concerned with handling than hooking, and I haven't done anything but springs & shocks out back. If you went a similar route, I'd recommend the FMS5300C springs. The 600# springs will reduce body roll, help keep the inside tire down, and you feel the bumps with the LCA bushings anyway. The rear springs are the same 200-300# progressive, so you won't deteriorate the ride much. Since you're starting from scratch, I say to do it right. Griggs has a great coil-over front setup, ground-pounder is a little cheaper, and maximum motorsports is comming out with a K-member. All of these kits improve the geometry, so you won't need rock hard springs to keep the body from rolling over. Plus, they take some weight off the front (often 100# or so). If you don't wanna get into k-members & stuff (labour might be expensive if you can't do it yourself), www.ajeracing.com has a nice setup. For $999 you get a 2" dropped spindle, coil-overs & cc plates. This gives you the drop, but retains the geometry & suspension travel. It'll take a little weight off the front, and if you wanna shed some more #, adding their k-member & A-arms will remove 150# total. I'm thinking about this setup myself (there seems to be quite a few drag cars using it too). I'm not sure what springs they use, but a 300# coilover would probably be good for you (assuming you use one of these kits that provides proper geometry). That's about the same as a 450# spring in the stock location... the stock springs are about 425#. If you use coil-overs with your stock k-member & spindles, you'll wanna go stiffer to maintain your handling, and so you don't bottom out (since the lowering would reduce your suspension travel). Out back, I'd start with some good LCA's, and keep the uppers. Again, I'd put out a little extra for a coil-over setup. The adjustability would certainly be worth it. One thing that is often overlooked, is that this removes some of the stress from the torque box (which should REALLY be welded up when you do the subframes). Griggs & Ground pounder have complete kits, but if you're handy, you can do it yourself a little cheaper. These guys have some really good pricies: http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=343 I'd keep the stock UCA's, unless you really wanted to improve handling... then a MM torque arm and panhard bar would be the way to go. The stock 4 link gives you a ton of anti-squat, so with some better LCA's, it'll hook well. Problems are: it gives you a HIGH rear roll center (which overloads the front outside wheel in a turn), and the UCA's yield AWEFUL brake jacking (which leads to the nose-dive effect). Also, it binds a lot, which is why the rear springs are so soft. If you go to the TA/PHB with stiffer springs, you'll be able to put an adult in the back, without it bottoming out. I've removed the pinion snubber for added travel, but now it bottoms on the axle stops, which is pretty harsh. Obviously it depends how much ya wanna spend, and what's most important to you. People will often say to stick with one provider, but if you know what you're doing, you can tailor the setup to your own needs. Griggs has been race-proven, and you pay for that. Maximum motorsports is great quality, but maybe a little more for the curves than what you're looking for. Steeda's got a nice 5link, which would be really nice, but it's rather pricie. Ground pounder's stuff is a great deal, but the customer service seems to be lacking (from what people have said). www.corner-carvers.com has some good posts... as does the corner carver board here. Since I haven't done much to my rear suspension, I'm actually thinking about getting crazy, and picking up a used cobra IRS. They don't hook as well, but the ride quality is a lot better, and you can get it a lot lower too! ------------------ '89.5 5L LX, hatch, Medium Canyon Red, 155K Km (No winters), 5sp, 3.08, GT interior, a/c, Alpine CD, K/N, Crane PS91, Walbro 190 LPH, March Pulleys, Mr. Gasket 180 therm (HP balanced), 3 core rad, MarkVIII fan, Variflow controller, Polygraphite front bushings, FMS-5300B springs, 6 KYB's, 73mm Calipers, Maximum Motorsport 4pt chassis brace, Western Motorsport Racing's Sub-frame connectors. Re-ringed bottom end, conv. motor mounts, melling oil pump, FMS-C50 waterpump, GT40P heads (blended, polli

01-28-2001, 03:07 PM	#4
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	Also, if you do the k-member, get some convertible motor mounts. THey're firmer, and lower the engine about 1".