HAL K-members?

84_GT350 · 06-10-2001, 02:48 AM

Damn....looking for K members is hard. I know Griggs is good stuff and I expect the Maximum Motorsports one will be when it's released (their tech said 1-1 1/2 months). But all the others seem like their just a drag race only kind of thing. So the guy at WMS Motorsports said they carry HAL K-members. Anybody know if these are good quality? The guy told me they used to carry another brand but they were "rough" and that the HALs are "excellent quality". I checked out their website and they looked pretty good. But will the hold up for road racing? They sell a whole kit with c/c plates, K-member, and adjustable tubular A arms. I'm not sure if they require HAL struts though. Anybody know more about this than I do?

------------------
1984 1/2 GT350 (#842 Hatchback w/ T-tops), 302HO, Comp cams Xtreme Energy cam, Carter 625cfm carb, Weiand Stealth intake, MSD distributor, MSD coil, FMS 9mm wires, 1 5/8" MAC unequal shorties, 2 1/2" MAC Prochamber H-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chambers, KYBs, 16"x8" 4 lug Cobra Rs, Falken 245/45ZR16s

8850 · 06-10-2001, 09:06 AM

I wouldn't call the Hal excellent quality but I did manage to get mine to work with a lot of grinding.

Three things were a problem. The rear A-arm bolts won't go in from the rear even after grinding down the shoulder. I had to finally grind down the nut used on the bolt and then it barely fit. I feel the nut is greatly weakened now with having one flat ground almost away. They need to fix this!

The second problem is the steering rack is not in the factory position now. I had to pull my steering column out about 1/2" in order for the steering shaft to reach the flange. I don't know if this is safe or not having the steering column out this far.

Third problem is the welded on arms for holding the A-arms are to wide. I went to the hardware store and bought washers to shim it so the A-arm would not slide back and forth when braking.

I don't understand why aftermarket suppliers can't make things right. These problems should be fixed. They have been selling these Kmembers too long to have these kind of problems.

This is my second Kmember. I had a Ground Pounder first and the motor mount brakets failed due to my torque. Also many other problems. The Ground Pounder is a piece of garage for sure!

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88 347, Twisted wedge heads,Comp Cams 224/230 cam, 1/4=10.718 @ 123.02 mph dyno= http://www.fbody.com/members/LarryS/mustdyno.jpg

[This message has been edited by 8850 (edited 06-10-2001).]

MiracleMax · 06-12-2001, 01:31 AM

"Three things were a problem. The rear A-arm bolts won't go in from the rear even after grinding down the shoulder. [b] I had to finally grind down the nut used on the bolt and then it barely fit [b] . I feel the nut is greatly weakened now with having one flat ground almost away. They need to fix this!"

The bolt isn't a load bearing piece so I don't think its that important, I had to do the same thing (after running down a nut and siezing both the bolt and nut), anywhosit I went back to the instructions and they said to grind down one face of the nut.

I went with the Granetelli arms myself, they have urethane bushings vs. solid or hiem which should give them a longer service life (thats the theory at least!)

As for the steering shaft issue? I haven't installed mine yet (gotta get my HAL struts and coilover kit), I'm going with a flaming river manual rack and solid shaft setup and I beleive they are adjustable?

COME CORRECT · 06-12-2001, 03:29 AM

I had no problem with the HAL install, trust me I am Mister test fit. I test fit everything. I may have got a better deal but the HAL was what worked. You do have grid down the rear bolt flange to insert it but hell It gives you a reason to purchase a grinder. Frankly the griding is simple just before you install it test fit all parts. I did use the D&D Motorsports A-arms, Ground Pounder Bump steer kit/ coil overs and HAL springs. Many parts but excellent fit. Contact Parkway Ford they were a good source of information and assistants.

------------------
PALADIN
"COME CORRECT"

06-10-2001, 02:48 AM	#1
84_GT350 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Overland Park, KS, USA Posts: 1,631	HAL K-members? Damn....looking for K members is hard. I know Griggs is good stuff and I expect the Maximum Motorsports one will be when it's released (their tech said 1-1 1/2 months). But all the others seem like their just a drag race only kind of thing. So the guy at WMS Motorsports said they carry HAL K-members. Anybody know if these are good quality? The guy told me they used to carry another brand but they were "rough" and that the HALs are "excellent quality". I checked out their website and they looked pretty good. But will the hold up for road racing? They sell a whole kit with c/c plates, K-member, and adjustable tubular A arms. I'm not sure if they require HAL struts though. Anybody know more about this than I do? ------------------ 1984 1/2 GT350 (#842 Hatchback w/ T-tops), 302HO, Comp cams Xtreme Energy cam, Carter 625cfm carb, Weiand Stealth intake, MSD distributor, MSD coil, FMS 9mm wires, 1 5/8" MAC unequal shorties, 2 1/2" MAC Prochamber H-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chambers, KYBs, 16"x8" 4 lug Cobra Rs, Falken 245/45ZR16s

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06-10-2001, 09:06 AM	#2
8850 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Sugarland, TX USA Posts: 161	I wouldn't call the Hal excellent quality but I did manage to get mine to work with a lot of grinding. Three things were a problem. The rear A-arm bolts won't go in from the rear even after grinding down the shoulder. I had to finally grind down the nut used on the bolt and then it barely fit. I feel the nut is greatly weakened now with having one flat ground almost away. They need to fix this! The second problem is the steering rack is not in the factory position now. I had to pull my steering column out about 1/2" in order for the steering shaft to reach the flange. I don't know if this is safe or not having the steering column out this far. Third problem is the welded on arms for holding the A-arms are to wide. I went to the hardware store and bought washers to shim it so the A-arm would not slide back and forth when braking. I don't understand why aftermarket suppliers can't make things right. These problems should be fixed. They have been selling these Kmembers too long to have these kind of problems. This is my second Kmember. I had a Ground Pounder first and the motor mount brakets failed due to my torque. Also many other problems. The Ground Pounder is a piece of garage for sure! ------------------ 88 347, Twisted wedge heads,Comp Cams 224/230 cam, 1/4=10.718 @ 123.02 mph dyno= http://www.fbody.com/members/LarryS/mustdyno.jpg [This message has been edited by 8850 (edited 06-10-2001).]

06-12-2001, 01:31 AM	#3
MiracleMax Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Hayes, Va, USA Posts: 798	"Three things were a problem. The rear A-arm bolts won't go in from the rear even after grinding down the shoulder. [b] I had to finally grind down the nut used on the bolt and then it barely fit [b] . I feel the nut is greatly weakened now with having one flat ground almost away. They need to fix this!" The bolt isn't a load bearing piece so I don't think its that important, I had to do the same thing (after running down a nut and siezing both the bolt and nut), anywhosit I went back to the instructions and they said to grind down one face of the nut. I went with the Granetelli arms myself, they have urethane bushings vs. solid or hiem which should give them a longer service life (thats the theory at least!) As for the steering shaft issue? I haven't installed mine yet (gotta get my HAL struts and coilover kit), I'm going with a flaming river manual rack and solid shaft setup and I beleive they are adjustable?

06-12-2001, 03:29 AM	#4
COME CORRECT Registered Member Join Date: Jul 1999 Location: Headed EAST in 5 days Posts: 252	I had no problem with the HAL install, trust me I am Mister test fit. I test fit everything. I may have got a better deal but the HAL was what worked. You do have grid down the rear bolt flange to insert it but hell It gives you a reason to purchase a grinder. Frankly the griding is simple just before you install it test fit all parts. I did use the D&D Motorsports A-arms, Ground Pounder Bump steer kit/ coil overs and HAL springs. Many parts but excellent fit. Contact Parkway Ford they were a good source of information and assistants. ------------------ PALADIN "COME CORRECT"