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01-23-2004, 12:39 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
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fuel gauge install
my stock fuel gauge works but is no longer accurate. i think its typical mustang behavior. now, i want to throw in an autometer fuel gauge. which is the correct part # for my application?
ATM-5714 Gauge, Phantom, 2-1/16" Fuel Level, 0-90 Ohms ATM-5715 Gauge, Phantom, 2-1/16" Fuel Level 73/8-12 Ohms ATM-5716 Gauge, Phantom, 2-1/16" Fuel Level, 240-33 Ohms ATM-5717 Gauge, Phantom, 2-1/16" Fuel Level, 0-30 Ohms ATM-5718 Gauge, Phantom, 2-1/16" Fuel Level, 16-158 Ohms also, can anyone give me a link or some info on installation? also would like to know if i can use my stock sender or do i need autometer's: ATM-3262 240 to 33 ohms, fuel level sending unit thanks.
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
01-23-2004, 08:42 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 706
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Thing is...
The thing is that it is probably your sending unit in the tank that is bad in the first place so a new gauge won't help you unless you are sure it's not the unit.
I just say this b/c the sending units are notorious in Fords. I have changed mine twice. The unit is not so bad, but the connector that sits on top of the tank is pathetic and becomes brittle and falls apart over time. Once the ground goes out on the connector, forget it. I ended up rewiring the harness at the connector and haven't had a problem since. Good luck.
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
01-23-2004, 09:08 AM | #3 |
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yeah, i figure it could be my slosh mod or the stock sender. so should I replace the sender with a ford piece or should i pick up the universal sender from autometer?
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
01-23-2004, 09:32 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 706
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sender
Personally, I don't have a problem with the mechanical portion of the Ford unit. The electrical connector is what is a pos.
When you drop the tank, check the wiring and manipulate the mechanical arm of the unit with Key on-Engine off (obviously) and see if the gauge works. Make sure you do this well away from the tank itself and any fuel vapor in a well-ventilated area. This is a good thing to do to ensure you found the problem before you go to the trouble of reinstalling everything just to find out you didn't fix the problem. Again, since I rebuilt the two-wire electrical connector and shrink-wrapped it, I haven't had any probs. Good Luck.
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1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy |
01-23-2004, 01:41 PM | #5 |
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do you have any pics of how u rebuilt the connector? or maybe a good description? sorry for all the annoying question.........
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1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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