Fuel Pump Q's

StreetStang37 · 04-09-2001, 04:36 PM

How much does it cost to get one installed, mine is really whinning bad and is ready to go. If I did it myself, how long does it take for the average person to do? I heard it could be a nightmare but then again, so can the price of labor. What kind of work needs to be done? You do have to pull the whole gas tank out right? I can't have the car down more than a day so it I may take it to the shop to do it.

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1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. mandrel bent cat back, High Flow H-Pipe, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance

gray87GT · 04-09-2001, 04:56 PM

I think there is a good how-to article on the corral. www.corall.net I am gonna change mine soon, and expect it to take 2-3 hours max.

Smokedawg · 04-09-2001, 05:13 PM

They are fairly simple to change even for the inexperienced mechanic. To start off try to make it so your tank is about empty. Unbolt the nozzle that runs from the fill in to the tank. There will be two straps hold the gas-tank up. Unbolt those two straps and down comes the tank. Now Undo all the hoses and fittings. Be careful not to brake the plastic fittings. Then you will have a metal ring holding the pump down. easy way to get this off is using a hammer and a punch to unscrew it. Once that is unscrewed pull out the fuel pump. When you get your new one wiggled on down there make sure it goes inside that holder inside the tank. Replace old o-ring with new one place that metal ring back on and tighten it back up tight. slide it back under car and plug everything back in. Raise tank slightly so you have enough room to put that fill in hose back in tank and tighten that back up. Then put it all the way back up in the right spot and tighten those 2 straps back up. A safe thing to do is when you get your back end jacked up and car on jackstands is to take you jack and get a piece of wood about16 to 18 inches long and about 6 to 8 inches wide and place that on the jack and jack it up to the tank so when you undo the straps that will still hold your tank in the air and you can let it down slowly. Good Luck!

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347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

CJ's94GT · 04-09-2001, 10:17 PM

I would recommend also replacing the rubber grommet that the fill tube fits in the tank. I tore my grommet in my 94 and had to run all over town on a Saturday for a dealer only item. Luckily, one of the stealers service shops was open so I did get one. We tore it trying to get the tank back up in the car. Go slow and don't force it.

And don't do like we did. We dropped the tank in a garage heated by a natural gas heater. We drop the tank and, amid the gas fumes filling the closed garage, Ryan says "Think we oughta shut off the heater?" My dumb *** is thinking natural gas not gasoline so I says "Nah, the flames is burning all the fumes." About 15 seconds later that light bulb goes off in my head that says, "Hey, wait a minute. Gasoline explodes. SHUT IT OFF, SHUT IT OFF!!" His house is still in one piece, I still have my eyebrows and all is right in the world.

It didn't take us two hours to do it. It's really not that bad.

CJ's94GT · 04-09-2001, 10:21 PM

I almost forgot, you will need the special tools that disengage the push on connectors on the fuel lines. You can get them at almost any auto parts store. You should also unplug the fuel pump and run the car till it stops so you remove the pressure from the lines. There will still be some fuel pressure so keep a rag over the fuel fittings when you seperate them so you don't get hosed down.

Change the filter while you're down there.

[This message has been edited by CJ's94GT (edited 04-09-2001).]

04-09-2001, 04:36 PM	#1
StreetStang37 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: San Jose, California USA Posts: 275	Fuel Pump Q's How much does it cost to get one installed, mine is really whinning bad and is ready to go. If I did it myself, how long does it take for the average person to do? I heard it could be a nightmare but then again, so can the price of labor. What kind of work needs to be done? You do have to pull the whole gas tank out right? I can't have the car down more than a day so it I may take it to the shop to do it. ------------------ 1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. mandrel bent cat back, High Flow H-Pipe, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance

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04-09-2001, 04:56 PM	#2
gray87GT Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Minnesota Posts: 177	I think there is a good how-to article on the corral. www.corall.net I am gonna change mine soon, and expect it to take 2-3 hours max.

04-09-2001, 05:13 PM	#3
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	They are fairly simple to change even for the inexperienced mechanic. To start off try to make it so your tank is about empty. Unbolt the nozzle that runs from the fill in to the tank. There will be two straps hold the gas-tank up. Unbolt those two straps and down comes the tank. Now Undo all the hoses and fittings. Be careful not to brake the plastic fittings. Then you will have a metal ring holding the pump down. easy way to get this off is using a hammer and a punch to unscrew it. Once that is unscrewed pull out the fuel pump. When you get your new one wiggled on down there make sure it goes inside that holder inside the tank. Replace old o-ring with new one place that metal ring back on and tighten it back up tight. slide it back under car and plug everything back in. Raise tank slightly so you have enough room to put that fill in hose back in tank and tighten that back up. Then put it all the way back up in the right spot and tighten those 2 straps back up. A safe thing to do is when you get your back end jacked up and car on jackstands is to take you jack and get a piece of wood about16 to 18 inches long and about 6 to 8 inches wide and place that on the jack and jack it up to the tank so when you undo the straps that will still hold your tank in the air and you can let it down slowly. Good Luck! ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, A9P Computer, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley Fuel Regulator, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 79mm Mass Air Unit, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors

04-09-2001, 10:17 PM	#4
CJ's94GT Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Wichita,KS Posts: 59	I would recommend also replacing the rubber grommet that the fill tube fits in the tank. I tore my grommet in my 94 and had to run all over town on a Saturday for a dealer only item. Luckily, one of the stealers service shops was open so I did get one. We tore it trying to get the tank back up in the car. Go slow and don't force it. And don't do like we did. We dropped the tank in a garage heated by a natural gas heater. We drop the tank and, amid the gas fumes filling the closed garage, Ryan says "Think we oughta shut off the heater?" My dumb *** is thinking natural gas not gasoline so I says "Nah, the flames is burning all the fumes." About 15 seconds later that light bulb goes off in my head that says, "Hey, wait a minute. Gasoline explodes. SHUT IT OFF, SHUT IT OFF!!" His house is still in one piece, I still have my eyebrows and all is right in the world. It didn't take us two hours to do it. It's really not that bad.

04-09-2001, 10:21 PM	#5
CJ's94GT Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Wichita,KS Posts: 59	I almost forgot, you will need the special tools that disengage the push on connectors on the fuel lines. You can get them at almost any auto parts store. You should also unplug the fuel pump and run the car till it stops so you remove the pressure from the lines. There will still be some fuel pressure so keep a rag over the fuel fittings when you seperate them so you don't get hosed down. Change the filter while you're down there. [This message has been edited by CJ's94GT (edited 04-09-2001).]