No one mentioned changing your shift point. I dont powershift because i am too broke to fix any broken parts on my daily driver...but shouldnt you start the powershift a lot earlier than a granny shift??

Not really. Most shift points are aimed at shifting before power starts to drop while still not shortchanging yourself. It's often difficult to determine that point without a dyno but usually you can tell when your particular engine quits building power. Pick your shift point accordingly. Done correctly the whole shift takes a split second and the engine shouldn't be allowed to rev too high. This is the key to any powershift. Speed and accuracy. If you find it takes you too long to complete, either practice more without the throttle on the floor or find another way to shift.
All this should be taken with the knowledge that T-5's tend to grenade if powershifted wrong or with a lot of horsepower tugging on them. One point I want to reinforce. . .5.0's have rev limiters built in and I doubt you can rev it too high before that kicks in. It ain't a fun thing to do but it should survive it a few times anyway.
Still. . .your engine, your decision.

shifting
 

Granny shifting...to my knowledge is just taking it easy when shifting. Shifting slow & at a lower rpm than you would say in a full on drag race.
Double clutching...I'm not sure about that one. The only time I've heard the term is in the movie "The Fast & the Furious". :D If anyone has a "real" definition of double clutching...I'd like to hear it.

shifting
 

Whoops! Looks like I took a little too long to reply. :D

Double clutching is used on certain types of transmissions that have no synchronizers. . .big trucks for instance. The rational is that when you pull the transmission out of gear, and hold the clutch in while you try to go to the next higher gear, all the other gears slow down to the point where it will not engage the next gear. If you let the clutch out as you go through neutral, it speeds all the gear shafts back up and makes it easier to go into gear. Fuller 9 speeds (and most other big trannies) rely on a 500 rpm drop to the next gear. I.E. if you peg the engine at 2200 rpm you can begin your shift. Without using the clutch at all when the engine drops past 1700 rpm, you can pull it into the next higher gear without so much as a clunk. Same goes for upshifting. . going up a hill, as your engine slows to 1700 rpm, you can slide it up into a lower gear by blipping the throttle to pull it out of gear, mash the pedal to the floor, and push it into the next lower gear and you'll never feel the thing go in. THe point is that if you don't use the clutch on these, you can hang the next gear as everything goes past the magical 500 rpm drop. If you don't use this method, you gotta double clutch. I am thinking that some of the older road racing trannies are like this. Anyway, unless you're driving a really old pickup or an 18 wheeler, you're wasting leg muscle double-clutching.

hows your car running man? i've never caught you out there yet. we went friday jan 3 with some 245' nitto d/r's. our first run was 14.01@98 with 14* timing. we pulled it down to 12*, iced the intake, removed some spare weight and ran a 13.72@100 not shabby for a AOD :D

My car is runnig like doodoo. I was having all kinds of problems with my diving and my car. The kill switch on my alarm was jacked up nd I couldn't crank the car in the staging lanes. I had to sit in the pit and figure out how to bypass the kill switch. The next run, I blew a flat anddidn't have a jack or a spare. It was a chitty night all together. I am shutting down Bigred for a while until I finish the overhaul.Let me know when you plan on going next. I might just go watch.

Caymon

MEDIK418,

Thanks for the reply, it clears up things. :D

i dunno when we are gonna be out there, we need a drive shaft loop and roll-cage now. since we put the trick flow track heat intake on it, it really helps out alot at top end. i'm looking for me a car now, i'm normally out there every friday watching. letme know when u get ur car going.