Got a used b303 today
 

I need to know how important it is to buy new lifters with it. I got it at a swap meet at FFW houston today for $50. The guy said it was only in the car for about a month. It still looks new. The lifters I have now only have about 50,000 miles on them. I had my engine re-built and bored .040 in 2001. I still am going to use the stock heads, although I have plans to have them re-worked in a while at which time I'll get new rockers and lifters with pushrods. I dont know how to degree a cam so how hard is it just to install it, right? Thanks for the help folks!

Caymon

It is fine to reuse your lifters as long as they were good... reusing flat tappets is a no-no but reusing rollers is fine.

hydraulic roller lifters can be re-used, i re-used mine, a few of them even had some wear marks, also used my stock pushrods with gt-40 heads, the cam was pretty easy all in all, as long as the heads are off, go for it.
just buy some new head bolts, also, i didnt degree my e-cam, (should have) just installed it straight up, although i havent pulled any good times yet, i will be on slicks next time, expecting a high 12 at least.
many people told me to degree it though, i should be pulling 105 mph out of it way it is, soon as it is tuned.

Would it be easier to leave the heads on and take the rockers off, or just take the heads off? i'm thinking just take the heads o9ff. If I do, how hard would it be to get the heads back on with the rockers still in place? Or would I have to re-do the rockers anyways? Also, can someone with a similar set up give me an idea of what kind of gains I can expect with it? Thanks for the help.

Caymon

For just a cam swap there is no reason to pull you heads.. all you need to do is remove the water pump timing timing cover radiator, valve covers, rockers, pushrods the lifters and intake or optional IF you want to buy yet another tool...
http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.co...ts/camtool.jpg
If not then it is mandantory to pull the intake and lifters.

i was also wondering on what i would have to do to put a cam in from the looks of it the cam would be to long to squeze in between the condensor and the block... is it possible to leave the motor where it is and get the new cam in safely?

and what is this tool in the pic?

heres another one what is it when u degree ur cam?

i was thinking about the b303 what are ur thoughts? my car is mildly modified(intake, tb, maf, exhaust, gears) it is also a 5 speed if that matters

sorry if i steal the post....

Okay First those tools have a really strong magnet on the end of them and what you do is once the pushrods are out put one in each pushrod hole lift it up just a little (enough for the cam to clear the lifters) then spin the wing down to the head to hole it there while you do the other 7 once that is done the pull the cam out slide new one in and undo lifters tools and voila no intake removal necessary. (that picture was ripped from Anderson Ford Motorsport who sells them premade)

Two no it won't clear the condenser if left sitting there but with the condenser not mounted but ac hoses hooked up still, so you don't have to evacuate and recharge the ac, it moves around enough to get it out of the way just be careful with it.

So I guess this will be a good time for me to remove my condensor. I still have the compressor, but all the lines are gone. The compressor is serving as a pulley right now. Is it the FRPP a/c eliminator kit that moves the power steering pump?

Caymon

Yes the FRPP one is the relocation bracket for teh PS pump.. Tomie Vaughn stocks them and isn't to far from you.

I love that place. Its only 25 min from my house and you can get anything you need. Do you know about how much they run? Also, does anyone know about what I can expect with this cam? Idle quality, power gains, sound? Thanks.

Caymon

Anyone?

I am using the B cam in my combo, but I have heads, intake, etc. also. You can see the power I am making. The cam can get a good sound to it when the idle is turned down a little. My idle quality is pretty good, although I get a little bit of a surge when the engine is cold sometimes. In the winter it gets even worse.

We dont really have a winter here. it just cools off. Thanks for the info man.

Caymon

Are you sure its a B cam? I've seen people try to pass off stock cams at swap meets by putting them in different boxes.

I thought about that, but its actually stamped on the end of the cam. It was in an unmarked box with b-303 hand written on the outside. He said he was selling the cam for a friend who wasnt there and to make him an offer. I said $50 and it was mine. Thanks though.

Caymon

I can only dream of living in a place where that statement is true:( .

Ya, its nice!!! But the summers blow nuts!! Today it was, at a guess, mid 80's to low 90's with a heat index of like 100 and about 150% humidity. Open the door and break a sweat.

I'm looking very forward to a b-cam and some 1.7 roller rockers from a very respected poster on this board...

While Baytown is hot, try out Brownsville...Lowest tip of South Texas...and my air con just lost the last of its freon!!!:(

Ya, I'm looking really forward to it too!! I just dont know when I'll have time to do it.

Remember "El Nino" like 5 years ago? My AC went out about a week after I got the truck and I had to go through "El Nino" without it!! Talk about a hot mother****er!!

Im guessing u can run low to mid 13's with that cam, and no head work. But i am not positive. I know my car will go faster i just need to tune it and do a few other things. Aswell as replace the tfi module. The idle is kinda aggressive.

later

Does anyone know what these are called? I would like to get some and need to know what they are actually called. Thanks.

Caymon

Go to http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/50-index 3rd from the bottom of the page last time I looked....you can build you own though you just need some all thread , wing nuts, some good pencil magnets and some JB Weld. They are like 60 bucks from Rick which i don't think is bad but I personally make stuff like that when i need it just because there should be but about $20 in material and an hr or so a labor involved.

Now for a question on the install. If I take my heads off, and leave the rockers on the heads, will I have to take them loose and re-tighten them after I put the heads back on? Or can I just leave them in place, put the pushrods back through the heads, and bolt the heads back down? I have never pulled a set of heads, so I am curious. Thanks folks.

Caymon

If you want to do it like that let me know so I can come watch:D

You would never get the heads to bolt back down. You must remove the rockers. And I dont know why you would want to remove the heads to change a cam.:confused:

That clears that up. And, I dont either, it was just a question. I know I dont want to spend $60 on the "tools" used to hold the lifters up. I will probably make them. What would be an appropriate length to make them?

Check this out man, your best bet is to just pull the upper and lower intake and valve covers and water pump and timing cover. Pull the radiator and move the A/C condenser. You don't have to pull the heads, just loosen the rockers. If they're stock stamped rockers you just have to torque them back down to spec when you're done (look it up in a haynes manual, there is a sequence too, you have to put the motor at TDC on cyl 1 and torque some of them, then go to a 180 degrees, then 90 degrees or something like that, torquing different rockers down each time (to make sure the valves are closed)) Anyway, that way you don't have to pull heads or any nonsense like that, or make any tools cause you can unbolt the lifters and pull them too. it's a little bit more work, but in my opinion it would be easier than making those tools (which i've heard work good, but I would only use them if I was going to leave the lower intake on, which isn't that hard to pull) Anyway, you could do all of this in a weekend if you have a good idea of what needs to be done and the right tools. Have you ever had a motor apart before? If not, you might want to find a haynes manual or just look at pictures of an engine tear down to get an idea of what is involved. It sounds to me like you might not understand why everyone was telling you to get those tools. Anyway, sorry for the long post, just thought it might help.

In my thread i never said you needed to remove the heads just the intake and lifters..... The tool is just to save the labor of pulling the inake off and putting it back on.

B cam...
 

I like it...it's not the best of course but it's not bad either. Nice idle, although it took a while with the FMS IAB spacer kit to get a nice lopey idle. Good low-end torque and it comes alive above 3200 RPM and pulls fairly well into the high 5's.
Enjoy...

Re: B cam...
 

So, you're saying that the IAB spacer made it harder to get the lopey idle generally associated with the cam?

b-cam and idle
 

Actually, it just wanted to idle higher around 1100-1200 with my optimal timing set. I had to crank the plungers all the way down to get the idle at around 875-900 and achieve the response I wanted, after setting TPS voltage at .95.
Also, I never touched the idle screw on the throttle body, I have just heard this is trouble.
I really am happy with the cam though, there will be those that hate it too.
Good luck.