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10-02-2001, 11:29 AM
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#1 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: okemos
Posts: 205
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GREAT NEWS...HEATER CORE TOOK A ****
ANY TIPS BEFORE INSTALLING A NEW ONE???
THANKS |
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10-02-2001, 11:34 AM
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#2 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Just put a new one in my 84 on saturday....
it was'nt that bad... just take your time and be patient... i did have to drain my AC though........... ------------------ 84 GT,shorty headers, open dual's, bored .060, 10.5" clutch, T5, 89 heads, edelbrock Performer manifold, matched cam, 600 Holley.. |
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10-02-2001, 11:43 AM
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#3 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: okemos
Posts: 205
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I KNOW IT SAYS TO DRAIN THE COOLING SYSTEM BUT DID U DO THAT, IS THERE ANYWAY AROUND DRAINING IT, I LIVE IN APARTMENT AND THEY DONT LIKE THAT KIND OF STUFF GOING ON OUT IN THE PARKING LOT?
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10-02-2001, 12:47 PM
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#4 |
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I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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i get to do mine (again)in the next few weekends too because when i did the intake swap i broke the tube coming out of the firewall (the heater core tube) by jolting it around too much
you do NOT even have to touch the AC system when you get the dash off, just take a dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut the casing as close to the front of the car as you can, then remove the screws on it and the heater core is exposed, you may have to do a little more "customization" to get it out from there but not much, when you get the new one in, just use duct tape or some kind of glue in the seam after you screw it back on (after all duct tape is designed for heating ducts), it also fixes everything  hey while your at it, you wanna do mine too? good luck ------------------ 88 Notch, B&M Ripper, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframes, 65mm TB, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph f/p, Crane Adj.FPR, Nitto drag radials, best 1/4--> 13.76@101.4 on a 2.17 60ft |
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10-02-2001, 08:18 PM
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#5 | |
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Mustang Maniac
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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Quote:
 .I'm just waiting for the next time I have to change mine  . When I do, I'll have to consider your advice and do some "customization" myself.  Thanks.----------------------------------------- 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback Stock 5.8L under custom made 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s 14 x 4” K&N air filter. Only a couple of weeks b4 Project FOX begins!!!  "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
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10-03-2001, 07:57 AM
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#6 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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What do you mean you don't have to touch the A/C? I would like to know exactly how to do it, cause I just did mine and had to drain my A/C. I was looking at possible ways to do it, but it seems impossible without taking the drier assemble off of the firewall.
Exactly where do you cut and what exactly do you do? From the looks of mine I still wouldn't be able to get the thing out the way you described. I am not trying to be a smarta$$, I would just like to know for future reference. Thanks Jason |
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10-03-2001, 01:57 PM
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#7 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: okemos
Posts: 205
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I decided to take the easy route and just bypass the dam thing, who needs heat anyway i only drive at track and in summer
lol duck tape |
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10-03-2001, 02:09 PM
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#8 |
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I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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the reason you are supposed to disconnect the AC is because you have to pull back that bug black casing from the firewall to get to the bolts holding down the cover over the heater core, just remove the screws that you can see and cut the cover to get it the rest of the way off, trust me it works
------------------ 88 Notch, B&M Ripper, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframes, 65mm TB, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph f/p, Crane Adj.FPR, Nitto drag radials, best 1/4--> 13.76@101.4 on a 2.17 60ft |
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10-03-2001, 11:00 PM
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#9 | |
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Procharged!
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Hanover, PA
Posts: 1,539
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Quote:
------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! [b]12.16 @ 113.5, 1.78 60ft..no traction in the 90 degree |
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