MustangWorks.com - The Ford Mustang Power Source!

Go Back   MustangWorks.com : Ford Forums > Mustang & Ford Tech > Windsor Power
Register FAQ Members List Calendar

Notices


Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 05-07-2002, 04:04 PM   #1
Just me
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Miami,Florida
Posts: 159
Question Burned hand no more electric

Here's what happenend.

I went to the auto parts store and bought a battery tray so I can relocate my battery to its original location under the hood. The reason for this is because the positive cable that Summit sold me with their crappy trunk battery relocator kit.

The positive cable isn't thick enough for normal operation. It would get roasting hot while driving. Then when I would reach my destination and turn off the car, it wouldn' t restart because the cable was too hot. Well, yesterday, I tried forcing the car to start by turning the ignition on. The starter would barely move. I repeated to turn the ignition on and off, trying to get the motor to crank over. Its worked before, but not yesterday. When I turned the key this time the starter kept trying to turn - even with the key out of the ignition.

I started to see smoke coming from the engine compartment and I panicked. The first thing I thought of was to jump into the rear of the car and rip off the positive cable from the battey. It was either this or jump out of the car and possibly watch my battery blow igniting my gas tank. There was alot of people around.

I reached over to rip off the positive cable and it severely burned three of my fingers on my right hand. With the massive burning pain I grabbed my adjustable wrench that I keep next to the battery box and managed to undo the positive cable. My skin looked wrinkled and the pain was massive. I actually thought I was gonna blow up with the car. Similar feeling as Hurricane Andrew. The worst nightmare of my life.

Ok, so with the detailed description of what happened, lol, the final result is a dead car. Only the door locks work. I have absolutely no power. I grabbed a volt meter and tested current. There is power going to the starter selenoid. The battery is still at 12.47 volts. I checked my fusable link. Is seems ok. There's not even power to my dome light. My headlights don't work either. I checked all fuses under the dash. All seems O.K.

What should I look for, guys?

I'm sorry that I wrote a long story, but I thought that this would be a lesson in safety everyone can benefit from. Maybe I'm just an idiot. Or maybe its ust me. lol!

Help me!

Thanks.
Just me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2002, 04:06 PM   #2
Just me
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Miami,Florida
Posts: 159
Default

Oops, I forgot.

Just me
91'lx, 302 block, crank pulley, no smog, short belt, Wolverine 1087 cam, 15 deg timing, TFS TW heads, motorsport 1.6 3/8 stud RR, ARP studs, TFS chrome hardened push rods, 24lb inj, BBK 255lph fuel pump, Areomotive billet adj FPR, Performer RPM intake(ported to 75mm), 1" spacer, Motorsport polished tall valve covers(love em), Pro-M 77, Acufab 75mm TB, Ford idle air bypass valve, K&N conical, MSD 6AL and coil, 9mm MS cables, NGK bkr5e 11 plugs@55, motorsport 3 core radiator,160 thermostat, Hurst short throw, motorsport 410 gears, aluminum drive shaft,Kenny brown Subs, Mac 1 3/4"Long tube, custom 3"off road xpipe, 2 chamber Flow Masters, 3 1/2" tailpipes HAL tubular K-member, KYB struts and shocks, Eibach springs, Steeda 2.5" Cowl, Steeda rear wing, black Dupont centari acrylic enamel paint.
Just me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2002, 06:24 PM   #3
drudis
Moderator
 
drudis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Livonia, MI, USA
Posts: 1,194
Default

You had some sort of short to begin with.
A battery cable should not get hot under normal use. I believe you had some sort of ignition switch short and caused you all the trouble.
Sorry for the pain. Hope you get better.
__________________
Darius Rudis, Moderator
Corner Carvers Delight
1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car
http://www.dariusrudis.com
drudis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2002, 06:31 PM   #4
gtsr515
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida
Posts: 725
Default

Sounds to me like your starter solenoid stuck, causing the starter to continually crank. Check and make sure battery is grounded well, also check all other grounds, I doubt you fried the computer in case your worried about that.
__________________
Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!
gtsr515 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2002, 06:52 PM   #5
sedanman
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 963
Default

I agree with drudis the cable should not get hot, I would first pull the battery and take it to a place that test batterys (sears, pepboys, autozone) then check all the wiring and fuses, than try this again this time be ready to pull the cable off, if it tries to start check the starter solednoid. Also did your car ever go in for the ign. switch recall??
__________________
04 Screamin Yellow Cobra
KB 2.4 (585/556 pump 626/666 race)
00R brakes, DFX clutch, Level 5's, return fuel system, Lts with 3" exhuast, FR500 wheels and all the other fun stuff.

GONE 1991 Lx sedan 5.0, 5spd (Liberty proshifted TKO) S-trim, Ported TF heads everything parted out.
sedanman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2002, 10:37 PM   #6
PKRWUD
Junior Member
 
PKRWUD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
Default

1) Replace the pos. cable with some 2 gauge welding cable.
2) Replace the starter solenoid.
3) Check your fusible links with a DMM set to ohms. There shouldn't be any detectable resistance.
4) Verify your gound connections, and add a ground cable between the engine and the frame, and another between the frame and the firewall (or rear floorpan). The fact that you have the battery mounted in the trunk means that your ground that used to go to the engine is no longer there, unless you've added a cable. This leaves crappy braided ground wires that can't handle heavy loads.

In the future, if you ever encounter a similar situation in which the engine continues to crank over, just rap the solenoid with the handle of a large screwdriver.

Take care,
-Chris
__________________
Webmaster:
Rice Haters Club
Jim Porter Racing
Peckerwoods Pit Stop


Support Your Local
RED & WHITE!
PKRWUD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2002, 01:51 AM   #7
joe4speed
He said Member...heh, heh
 
joe4speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Jupiter, Florida U.S.A.
Posts: 3,718
Default Re: Burned hand no more electric

Quote:
Originally posted by Just me
Similar feeling as Hurricane Andrew. The worst nightmare of my life.
I lived in Miami beach when that happened... Fortunately, we were forced to evacuate. My dad was the GM of the Eden Roc hotel, and he stayed behind, got some really good video. Life sure changed there after that...
__________________
Joe! 1988 GT, 13.58@101mph Check out my listing! Click here! Or my website:www.joe4speed.com
joe4speed is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electric Fan Wanna Be 1_fine_89 Windsor Power 2 04-07-2003 12:34 AM
HP gains from electric water pump? exgmguy Windsor Power 13 09-28-2001 02:46 AM
Any electric fans out there that handle 400hp? GTLee Windsor Power 4 09-23-2001 09:15 PM
Got an 130amp alt. and electric fan- have a few questions Killercanary Windsor Power 5 03-29-2001 07:17 PM
electric fan questions - new alternator, how many? ect.. 88COBRA Windsor Power 8 02-23-2001 12:47 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:46 PM.


SEARCH