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1. When I was reinstalling the balancer, it seemed to stop about an 1/16th-1/8th of an inch farther out than when I took it off. You can see it when looking at the pullies, the crank pulley sticks out just a tad farther than the other pulleys. What do you think is causing it to stop short?
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Are you positive the pullies lined up perfect before? Did you replace the water pump? What did you torque the balancer center bolt to (how many pounds)? Did you try hitting the balancer to get it the rest of the way in (this is often the cause because the weighted part of the balancer has been knocked off center slightly at one point)(for future reference, NEVER hit the balancer while trying to install it)? Did you use a new key on the crank, or the same one as before? Did you coat the inside of the balancer (where it rides on the crank) with anti-seize before installation? If you did the above, and are sure the balancer is sticking out more than before, the only possibility is that the crank gear in your timing set is thicker than the one it replaced. You should be able to see a wear mark on the balancer where it enters the seal if it's sticking out more than before.
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2. When I put the new timing chain on, it was a pretty tight fit. Is it possible that the crank sprocket wasn't put on far enough to be perfectly in line with the cam sprocket? Would this cause the vibration? If this is the case would it line itself up as the chain stretches?
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Usually, the crank sprocket settles in when you tighten down the cam gear bolt. If it doesn't, it will seat fully when you tighten the balancer bolt. What you need to determine is if the balancer itself is bent. The easiest way to do this is to get to a position where you can see both the outside of the balancer (the weighted end) and the shaft of the balancer, where it goes into the seal. Sometimes this can only be seen from underneath. Safely set up the car so you can observe both points on the balancer, and start the engine. Observe the shaft of the balancer and see if it wobbles with the rest of the balancer. If the shaft of the balancer does not wobble while the weighted part of it does, replace the balancer. If both the shaft and the weighted end of the balancer wobble, either the crank snout is bent, or the balancer has too much wear, and is cocked on the crank. Try loosening the balancer to crankshaft bolt (with no belts attached) and see if it wobbles by hand. If it does, replace it. If not, remove the balancer and place it on a solid, flat surface so the pulley mating surface is facing up. With a straight edge or an adjustable square, measure the exact distance from the balancer edge to the surface the balancer is sitting on, at four equally spaced points on the balancer (ie: 12 o'clock, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock). If they differ, replace the balancer. If they are the same, inspect the crank snout and key, and make sure there is no build up on them. Apply anti-seize to the snout and the balancer, and reinstall everything. Start it and check for a wobble. If no wobble, it's fixed. If it does wobble, you may have a bent crank snout. Remove the balancer again, disable the ignition system, and have someone crank the engine over while watching the crank snout. If it appears to wobble, you need to rebuild the bottom end. If it doesn't, find someone with a dial indicator and a magnetic base. Mount it to the engine with the dial tip touching the crank snout, install the balancer bolt and crank the engine over by hand. Watch for any change on the dial indicator.
Take care
~Chris
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[This message has been edited by PKRWUD (edited 09-16-2001).]