Header and Exhaust Installation

1991GT · 12-03-2002, 09:28 PM

I have some nice go fast goodies sitting in my garage that I'm going to be putting on either tomorrow or sometime later this week. BBK 1 5/8 ceram. unequal shorties, BBK h-pipe w/ cats, flowmaster 2 chambers, and new GT tailpipes. My question mostly concerns the header to block bolts. I purchased the locking header bolts from Mustangs Unlimited and Im going to use those for all of them obviously except where the engine lift brackets and dipstick support are in which case I am using the stock rusted bolts. Now I've talked to several different ppl and some have said to use red loctite, others have told me the opposite use teflon tape so they dont seize up, etc. What would you guys recommend on the header to block bolts??? I know I need to use the red loctite on the header collector studs (they aren't installed on the headers from the factory). What about the rest of the exhaust??? The nuts that hold the h-pipe on the header studs?? The bolts that hold the h-pipe and the mufflers together?? I was also told to use sensor safe black silicone where the flanges seal on the header to h-pipe and h-pipe to muffler connections. This is the first time I'm dong this and I want to make sure it's done right. Thanks for all the help you guys have given me. I know I can always come to the mustangworks forums for help

CB93LX · 12-03-2002, 09:43 PM

I dont know the answers to all of your questions but I would not use loctite on the header bolts to the heads. I usually put on anti seize.

MEDIK418 · 12-03-2002, 10:31 PM

Actually, I did use the blue loctite on my last set of header bolts just to see if it works. So far it has held like a champ after about 5,000 miles.

Red is PERMANENT. Don't put this on anything you want to remove in this lifetime. Blue is softer and can be removed easily. Kinda sets up like putty. Green is a wicking type of locker. You can put it on a bolt or nut already tightened and it will penetrate the threads and holds about like the blue stuff. THere's more colors, but these are all I know about.

CB93LX · 12-03-2002, 10:37 PM

Really?? Never even really thought about doing it. Seems like theyre hard enough to get of with nothing on them... I havent had much problem with them coming loose though, just maybe a retorqing after a few thousand miles after the install.

squid · 12-03-2002, 11:17 PM

I have one recommendation...ANTI SIEZE...your knuckles will thank you someday!

12-03-2002, 09:28 PM	#1
1991GT Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Flemington, NJ Posts: 13	Header and Exhaust Installation I have some nice go fast goodies sitting in my garage that I'm going to be putting on either tomorrow or sometime later this week. BBK 1 5/8 ceram. unequal shorties, BBK h-pipe w/ cats, flowmaster 2 chambers, and new GT tailpipes. My question mostly concerns the header to block bolts. I purchased the locking header bolts from Mustangs Unlimited and Im going to use those for all of them obviously except where the engine lift brackets and dipstick support are in which case I am using the stock rusted bolts. Now I've talked to several different ppl and some have said to use red loctite, others have told me the opposite use teflon tape so they dont seize up, etc. What would you guys recommend on the header to block bolts??? I know I need to use the red loctite on the header collector studs (they aren't installed on the headers from the factory). What about the rest of the exhaust??? The nuts that hold the h-pipe on the header studs?? The bolts that hold the h-pipe and the mufflers together?? I was also told to use sensor safe black silicone where the flanges seal on the header to h-pipe and h-pipe to muffler connections. This is the first time I'm dong this and I want to make sure it's done right. Thanks for all the help you guys have given me. I know I can always come to the mustangworks forums for help __________________ '91 GT - 135K miles T-5, stock 2.73's uugh, MAC cold air, Pro-M Bullet 75mm, BBK 1 5/8 jet-hot unequal shorties, BBK h-pipe w/ cats, Flowmaster 2 chambers, Pro 5.0 short throw, KYB shocks and struts In the garage waiting to be put on: Screamin Demon coil, Dyna Mod TFI module, underdrive pulleys

12-03-2002, 10:31 PM	#3
MEDIK418 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA Posts: 780	Actually, I did use the blue loctite on my last set of header bolts just to see if it works. So far it has held like a champ after about 5,000 miles. Red is PERMANENT. Don't put this on anything you want to remove in this lifetime. Blue is softer and can be removed easily. Kinda sets up like putty. Green is a wicking type of locker. You can put it on a bolt or nut already tightened and it will penetrate the threads and holds about like the blue stuff. THere's more colors, but these are all I know about. __________________ 1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet. Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer.

12-03-2002, 11:17 PM	#5
squid Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Dayton, OHIO Posts: 73	I have one recommendation...ANTI SIEZE...your knuckles will thank you someday! __________________ 93'GT 5spd. Underdrives, FMS clutch, adjustable quadrant,Flowmasters, Kenny Brown subframe connectors, 3.73 gears, Steeda Tri-Ax. JBA shorties, BBK h-pipe. More to come.

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12-03-2002, 09:43 PM	#2
CB93LX Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Eastern N.C. Posts: 50	I dont know the answers to all of your questions but I would not use loctite on the header bolts to the heads. I usually put on anti seize.

12-03-2002, 10:37 PM	#4
CB93LX Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Eastern N.C. Posts: 50	Really?? Never even really thought about doing it. Seems like theyre hard enough to get of with nothing on them... I havent had much problem with them coming loose though, just maybe a retorqing after a few thousand miles after the install.