Headers Glowing?
 

I took my car out last night after I tried a few more things to make it run a bit cooler. It always gets right to the middle of the guage and stops, which is not bad really. So I get home and want to check my antifreeze level, I pop the hood for some reason before I turn on the lights and my BBK headers are GLOWING red. Is that right?? Timing probs??
Thanks for any advice

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347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC and Smog del, rear seat del.

Is your injectors and mass air calibrated for one another? If a motor is running to rich the fuel will actually burn inside the headers causing them to glow. Your 30lb injectors may be a bit much, but they sound about right.

Does your car emit any black smoke when you mash the peddle? If so, you are definately rich.

Good luck!

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SVO siamesed 351 stroked to 417ci,Yates heads, solid roller,Trans King glide and a little blue bottle
of giggle gas. My Car

Being that your engine temp. is hot, I would say you are running lean. A lean condition will cause everything to get hot and it can cause headers to glow. Never heard of fuel burning in the header but then again I have no experience with fuel injection. Just my $.02.

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1969 fast back; yellow; weld wheels; 302 roller with GT-40 heads; 3:55 gears; 5spd T-5; MSD 6AL; E-303; flows

No smoke whatsoever comes out of my pipes when I floor it. When I turn the FP down it wont rev any higher than 5 grand..
The mass air meter is calibrated for 30lb injectors.
Someone told me to back my timing down a bit, does this sound right?

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347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC and Smog del, rear seat del.

What is your timing set at? Take a look at your plugs. If it is running lean they will have a whitish tint. If it's rich they will be sootie black. I would start there, it's important to see what the plugs look like so that we can if it's lean or rich.

It does look like you have a sufficient cooling set-up but has it always ran a little hot or did it strat when you put the motor in? Also, what size thermostat do you have in?

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SVO siamesed 351 stroked to 417ci,Yates heads, solid roller,Trans King glide and a little blue bottle
of giggle gas. My Car

I'd say youre either rich/lean or you timing is too low (i would guess the former, as your timing would have to be less than 0 to burn in hte header).

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90LX AOD Convertable: Lakewood control arms, FMS springs.
Best 1/4: 15.277@92.25 (2.27 60')
AIM: dinomite1, roadracestang
dinomite@softhome.net

I have had this heating problem since I first installed the motor. All these mods happened at once so its hard to pinpoint whats causing something.
I am running a 160 thermo--I have a 180 but am debating on switching it..

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347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC and Smog del, rear seat del.

Anyone who has ever driven by a running irrigation pump at night can tell you glowing exhausts is nothing to worry about. Think about it this way, typical exhaust temperatures run around 1100-1200 degrees. Steel begins to soften at 1700 and, it starts to glow long before it fails. It may be a little unusual for an idling engine to have glowing manifolds but if you had been up to speed shortly before that it's probably nothing to worry about.

as earlier stated a lean mixture causes high cylinder temputatures, overly retarted timing will also cause higher temuratures
if you have a mass air meter calibrated for larger injector than you have the engine will run lean, causing higher cyl temps which may lead to engine ping, the computer will compensate for this by retarding your timing. that will compund your problem. Also if your engine has alot of compression exhast temuratures will also be alot higher which can cause your problem either way it should be no huge problem mechanicly, although the high exhaust temps will add stress to your exhaust valve, but if your engine continues to do this steps to protect adjacent plastic peices would be advised anywho thats just what I know.....
Sean 89 mustang LX

I don't know if this will make you feel any better but, I race motocross, and on my YZ426 the header would get red hot, it was pretty common with the 400-426's.

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3:55's,BBK Off-Road H-pipe,BBK jet-hot coated equal length shorty headers,BBK 70mm Throttle Body,BBK adjustable clutch quadrant,C & L 76mm Mass air meter, PRO 5.0, Subframe connectors, Cobra R's 17x9 w/ 245's,Trick Flow Intake,Flowmaster Force II exhaust system, Super Duty T5,Centerforce II Clutch,Heavy Duty Radiator,9mm Ford racing plug wires,Accel cap and Rotor, moroso battery relocation kit, strut tower brace, 4 inch harwood cool hood, autometer phantom gauges

1989 Chevy S-10, EX. Cab-383(

I recently had the same problem and it was caused by the timing being retarded way too far. Check that first. It's the easiest.

I don't know about your heating problems but I do know that glowing headers are normal. Exhaust manifolds don't glow b/c they are thick, headers glow b/c they are thin. A high hp engine will make them glow a little more due to "more hp = more heat". You only notice it at night when you have been running hard or long distance. My super comps glowed bright enough to cast a shadow for a little while, they cool off fast. I then coated them b/c I didn't want shorten their life, now they are cool to touch 5-10 minutes after I turn it off. Bottom line is don't worry over a little glow.