Air Conditioner Installation

dvh1 · 06-18-2003, 11:32 AM

I have restored a 1966 Mustang coupe with a 6 cylinder 200 engine. The car has never had air conditioning. I have purchased all parts of an air conditioning system that was removed from a 1966 6 cylinder Mustang. Can someone please tell me where I can obtain detailed, step-by-step instructions on how to install this air conditioner? I appreciate your help.

Dennis
Hemet, California

rbohm · 06-18-2003, 06:04 PM

vintage air can help www.vintageair.com (i think)

Jeff65 · 06-19-2003, 02:03 PM

Can tell you how I did it on my '65 5.0L and perhaps you can relate it to what you have.

1. Open hood, remove grille and hood lock assembly. Remove vertical support for hood lock assembly. This gives you clearance to install condenser.

2. Assuming your condenser already has mounting tabs or straps attached...locate condenser in middle of radiator opening. Top of condenser should be about 1" below the top opening in the radiator support sheet metal. Mark and then drill holes for sheet metal screws. Attach dryer to condenser driver side if not already attached. If not attached, mount condenser and straps using sheet metal screws. This will be a temporary fitting to allow you to position dryer for later attachement to condenser. Top fitting of dryer should attach to condenser. Screw it on temporarily and then add the bottom pipe. The bottom pipe should go to the driver's side horizontal. Look where the pipe hits the radiator support and note there's a dimple in the sheet metal. When properly positioned the lower pipe should hit the dimple. Mark this spot. Drill 1" hole for pipe to pass through the radiator support sheet metal. You can use GreenLee punch or hole saw to drill this hole. The hole should be lined with a 1" grommet. Now go to the top of the radiator support. Note the condenser has an upper hose connection. Match up the hose with the connection and estimate where to punch a hole to allow the hose end to pass through the upper radiator support. This will be in the curved part of the radiator support sheet metal just up from where the regulator is mounted on the drivers side of the radiator. Mark and drill a 1" hole here also. Line hole with grommet. Mount condenser and hose. Reassemble grille and hood latch. Note: at this point, the condenser should be in position in front of radiator with about 1" between the condenser and radiator. The lower pipe should pass through the radiator support below and slightly left of the regulator. The upper hose should pass through the hole drilled up top and be hanging with one end loose (for later attachment).

3. Mount compressor brackets (can't tell you how for I6, you'll just have to figure it out). The main thing is to get the bracket attached and adjusted so pulleys run true.

4. Attach condenser hose to compressor.

5. Look at firewall near the back of the left valve cover. There should be an oval stensel on the firewall. Drill or knock out the stenciled area and insert firewall grommet.

6. Run hose from compressor through firewall grommet.

7. At connection below regulator, attach aluminum tube segment. Attach "T" pressure switch fitting to end of aluminum tube. Attach pressure switch. Use clamp to mount end of aluminum tube to left shock tower. Attach evaporator hose between "T" fitting and firewall grommet.

Note: at this time you should have two hoses going through firewall. Do not attempt to make them neat at this time.

8. Mount evaporator unit under dash. Connect hoses coming through firewall to evaporator unit. Note: due to sizes of connectors these should only connect one way.

9. Electrical Power. You need a source of 12v switched. I believe there is a free connector in the heater fan harness. The connection should be: 12 v switched > fuse holder > evaporator.

10. Clutch Power. The evaporator has a wire coming from it that needs connection to the clutch via the pressure switch. The connection should be: Evaporator > Pressure switch > clutch.

How does it work? 12 volt power is provided from the fuseblock to the in-line fuse, in turn the evaporator. This provides power for the evaporator fan and for the clutch. Internal to the evaporator the power is routed to the thermostat. When the temperature of the evaporator is above 45 degrees the contacts in the thermostat are closed and hence power is routed to the clutch. The clutch engages and starts freon circulating. It is compressed and liquified and flows through hoses to the evaporator where it reaches the expansion valve. The expansion valve atomizes the liquid and as it does heat is drawn from the air surrounding the evaporator. The heated gas moves back to the compressor where it liquifies again for another evaporation cycle. This continues as long as the clutch is engaged and the compressor is turning. THe purpose of the pressure switch is to monitor the compressor. If the pressure drops below 2 lbs then the compressor clutch is disengaged. If the pressure exceeds the high pressure setting the clutch is disengaged. The purpose being to protect the compressor from incorrect pressures (high or low).

Servicing. System must be evacuated and serviced with Freon or R134 (whichever the system is configured for). Once all plumbing is closed and tightened, a vaccuum pump is attached to evacuate the system and check for leaks. The system should hold 30"hg vaccuum for 30 minutes without the vaccuum pump pumping. The compressor must be serviced with oil (mineral oil, I think). Freon is added until it takes the requisite charge...as measured from high and low pressure readings.

Notes: sufficient airflow must cross condensor for liquify to occur. If your fan blade, or shroud is not good enough, unit will not cool and pressures cannot be achieved. If you suspect you don't have enough airflow, use household fan and blow across condenser in addition to engine fan. If household fan causes system to work but removing it causes the a/c to stop cooling, you'll have to install a better fan and shroud.

Specifics for service of the air conditioner come from the shop manual or from the aftermarket vendor (how much Freon or R134, how much mineral oil, high and low pressure readings).

Conical fittings require light oil film to properly seat and prevent leakage. Use 3-n-1 oil or other light oil to lubricate conical seats before tightening them. Conical seats are metal to metal seals, so do not over tighten them. Tighten just enough to seal and no more. Overly tight seals will start leaking and there is nothing that will make them stop if they're compressed too tightly. Go easy on these. Better to tighten as you know they are leaking then to get beefy armed with these. Once they're **... they're **!

Square fittings require an "O" ring. Saturate "O" ring in 3-n-1 oil (overnight, 8 hours) before use. Place on line and move to flange. Tighten and close connector enough to compress "O" ring seal (snug).

06-18-2003, 11:32 AM	#1
dvh1 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hemet, CA, USA Posts: 3	Air Conditioner Installation I have restored a 1966 Mustang coupe with a 6 cylinder 200 engine. The car has never had air conditioning. I have purchased all parts of an air conditioning system that was removed from a 1966 6 cylinder Mustang. Can someone please tell me where I can obtain detailed, step-by-step instructions on how to install this air conditioner? I appreciate your help. Dennis Hemet, California

06-18-2003, 06:04 PM	#2
rbohm Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: tucson,az/luray,va Posts: 243	vintage air can help www.vintageair.com (i think) __________________ define irony: a bunch of idiots on a plane, dancing to a song made famous, by a band who died in a plane crash. fordsix.com admin

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06-19-2003, 02:03 PM	#3
Jeff65 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 208	Can tell you how I did it on my '65 5.0L and perhaps you can relate it to what you have. 1. Open hood, remove grille and hood lock assembly. Remove vertical support for hood lock assembly. This gives you clearance to install condenser. 2. Assuming your condenser already has mounting tabs or straps attached...locate condenser in middle of radiator opening. Top of condenser should be about 1" below the top opening in the radiator support sheet metal. Mark and then drill holes for sheet metal screws. Attach dryer to condenser driver side if not already attached. If not attached, mount condenser and straps using sheet metal screws. This will be a temporary fitting to allow you to position dryer for later attachement to condenser. Top fitting of dryer should attach to condenser. Screw it on temporarily and then add the bottom pipe. The bottom pipe should go to the driver's side horizontal. Look where the pipe hits the radiator support and note there's a dimple in the sheet metal. When properly positioned the lower pipe should hit the dimple. Mark this spot. Drill 1" hole for pipe to pass through the radiator support sheet metal. You can use GreenLee punch or hole saw to drill this hole. The hole should be lined with a 1" grommet. Now go to the top of the radiator support. Note the condenser has an upper hose connection. Match up the hose with the connection and estimate where to punch a hole to allow the hose end to pass through the upper radiator support. This will be in the curved part of the radiator support sheet metal just up from where the regulator is mounted on the drivers side of the radiator. Mark and drill a 1" hole here also. Line hole with grommet. Mount condenser and hose. Reassemble grille and hood latch. Note: at this point, the condenser should be in position in front of radiator with about 1" between the condenser and radiator. The lower pipe should pass through the radiator support below and slightly left of the regulator. The upper hose should pass through the hole drilled up top and be hanging with one end loose (for later attachment). 3. Mount compressor brackets (can't tell you how for I6, you'll just have to figure it out). The main thing is to get the bracket attached and adjusted so pulleys run true. 4. Attach condenser hose to compressor. 5. Look at firewall near the back of the left valve cover. There should be an oval stensel on the firewall. Drill or knock out the stenciled area and insert firewall grommet. 6. Run hose from compressor through firewall grommet. 7. At connection below regulator, attach aluminum tube segment. Attach "T" pressure switch fitting to end of aluminum tube. Attach pressure switch. Use clamp to mount end of aluminum tube to left shock tower. Attach evaporator hose between "T" fitting and firewall grommet. Note: at this time you should have two hoses going through firewall. Do not attempt to make them neat at this time. 8. Mount evaporator unit under dash. Connect hoses coming through firewall to evaporator unit. Note: due to sizes of connectors these should only connect one way. 9. Electrical Power. You need a source of 12v switched. I believe there is a free connector in the heater fan harness. The connection should be: 12 v switched > fuse holder > evaporator. 10. Clutch Power. The evaporator has a wire coming from it that needs connection to the clutch via the pressure switch. The connection should be: Evaporator > Pressure switch > clutch. How does it work? 12 volt power is provided from the fuseblock to the in-line fuse, in turn the evaporator. This provides power for the evaporator fan and for the clutch. Internal to the evaporator the power is routed to the thermostat. When the temperature of the evaporator is above 45 degrees the contacts in the thermostat are closed and hence power is routed to the clutch. The clutch engages and starts freon circulating. It is compressed and liquified and flows through hoses to the evaporator where it reaches the expansion valve. The expansion valve atomizes the liquid and as it does heat is drawn from the air surrounding the evaporator. The heated gas moves back to the compressor where it liquifies again for another evaporation cycle. This continues as long as the clutch is engaged and the compressor is turning. THe purpose of the pressure switch is to monitor the compressor. If the pressure drops below 2 lbs then the compressor clutch is disengaged. If the pressure exceeds the high pressure setting the clutch is disengaged. The purpose being to protect the compressor from incorrect pressures (high or low). Servicing. System must be evacuated and serviced with Freon or R134 (whichever the system is configured for). Once all plumbing is closed and tightened, a vaccuum pump is attached to evacuate the system and check for leaks. The system should hold 30"hg vaccuum for 30 minutes without the vaccuum pump pumping. The compressor must be serviced with oil (mineral oil, I think). Freon is added until it takes the requisite charge...as measured from high and low pressure readings. Notes: sufficient airflow must cross condensor for liquify to occur. If your fan blade, or shroud is not good enough, unit will not cool and pressures cannot be achieved. If you suspect you don't have enough airflow, use household fan and blow across condenser in addition to engine fan. If household fan causes system to work but removing it causes the a/c to stop cooling, you'll have to install a better fan and shroud. Specifics for service of the air conditioner come from the shop manual or from the aftermarket vendor (how much Freon or R134, how much mineral oil, high and low pressure readings). Conical fittings require light oil film to properly seat and prevent leakage. Use 3-n-1 oil or other light oil to lubricate conical seats before tightening them. Conical seats are metal to metal seals, so do not over tighten them. Tighten just enough to seal and no more. Overly tight seals will start leaking and there is nothing that will make them stop if they're compressed too tightly. Go easy on these. Better to tighten as you know they are leaking then to get beefy armed with these. Once they're ... they're ! Square fittings require an "O" ring. Saturate "O" ring in 3-n-1 oil (overnight, 8 hours) before use. Place on line and move to flange. Tighten and close connector enough to compress "O" ring seal (snug).