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10-11-2002, 06:51 PM | #1 |
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Location: Florida
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Building my first motor
I own a 90gt 5spd with over 130k on it and before I start bolting everything on I would like to just build a new motor and since it will be my first time I was thinking of buying a Ford Motorsports short block for about $1250 or does someone have any other suggestions cause I really dont wanna add anything on the top end of my motor with 130k plus miles.
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90gt 347 and some bolt ons :-) RICE HATERS MEMBER #73 |
10-11-2002, 11:10 PM | #2 |
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Well im not sure on the specs for the short block your thinking of buying. But you can build one for cheaper i think with better parts. Lets see if you can't find a used block, it would cost about 425 that includes shipping for a new 302 block. Then if you get a new cast crank is like 185, i imagine thats what they use in theres. Rods will cost you about 230 for decent/ better the stock set. Pistons will cost you about 250-300 with rings. and a set of bearings will cost about 100.
425+185+230+300+100 =1240 Well that only saves you 10 bucks but thats includes shipping so your actually saving around 150 on the shipping it will cost you for a short block. with that 150 you can have it balanced (The balance job will be much better then what ford does) So now you have spent the same money but you have some better parts and a completely balanced engine that will last longer. And you can say you built the whole thing from scratch. I don't know... just a thought.
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94 GT (Full length headers, Off Road H Pipe and Flowmasters) MSD Ignition, 75 shot nitrous, cold air induction. 65mm t.b. pulleys and 3:73 gears. everything else STOCK!! 60' = 2.04; 1/4 = 13.9 on street tires dynoed with 87 octane at 240hp 310 lb torch w/out nitrous. Its a pooch but im working on it. |
10-12-2002, 10:58 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA
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I agree with DLB on building your own. If it goes BOOM at least you know it wasn't someone else who got to you. I've built three engines this year, a 306, a 414 and my tired old 300 inch six in the truck. I did buy the 414 stroker (short block) for the boy's Bronco and I still feel uneasy about it and probably won't do that again. The biggest problem with building your own is all the little added expenses you don't budget for. With a used block, you can count on machine costs from 200 - 500 bucks depending on who's doing it. freeze plugs, cam bearings, are the lifter bores going to need work? Every time I do one of these things I sit looking at my poor smoking checkbook and wish I'd bought the thing outright and yes you can come out about the same but there's a lot of decisions budgetwise to get there. Watch the guaranteed shortblocks too. A lot of them only guarantee the engine if an ASE certified mechanic installs it. Good thing to do, but most folks don't go that route.
Good luck
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1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet. Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer. |
10-12-2002, 04:08 PM | #4 |
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Location: Fayetteville, NC
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What if you just get your current block machined? Any good machine shop should magnaflux the block before they do any machine work. The extra expense is definetely worth it, whether you use your current block or a used one. I'd purchase a stroker kit, there are quite a few good companies making them. You could do a 306, 331, or a 347 for around $1300. But that's just my opinion.
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10-12-2002, 08:28 PM | #5 |
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Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A.
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Is this going to be a street car? What level? I think a few of us are getting carried away. Do you drag, do you like curves, or do you just enjoy driving, want more power, and a fresh motor? A simple RHO 306 is only $899.00 I have a freind with one. His runs 12s, he beats the hell out of it. It runs fine for four years now. Is that what you want? I use junkyard motors, usally get a couple of years out of them. $300.00-$700.00 I don't mind wrenching. Or do you want a 10,000 RPM 9.00 @ 150mph motor. Just wondering so we can steer you in the right direction
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88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle. |
10-13-2002, 01:02 AM | #6 |
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Location: Florida
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Its my daily driver and I just didnt wanna bolt on all my top end stuff on my motor now which is pushing about 140k plus miles I just want something reliable i'm open to all suggestions, maybe I can jus get my motor now refresged its just that everyones been tellin me I can to the top end without the bottom end so I need some suggestion on what can I do, I just wanna be like low 13's, I only drag once and a while most driving is on the street in daily stop-n- go traffic.
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90gt 347 and some bolt ons :-) RICE HATERS MEMBER #73 |
10-15-2002, 06:35 AM | #7 |
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Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A.
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Just go with a RHO for $899.00. A GOOD shop will charge that much just to freshen yours up. Good luck
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88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid I'm somewhere in tthe middle. |
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