HELP! Frikin' Civics are running faster then me!

[95mustanggt]

AHHHHHHHHhhhh!!

My car has no Power!

Here's the story:

I moved from Edmonton Canada to Dallas TX a month ago. On the way down I get detonation (Funniest sounding detonation as I thought it was an exhaust leak). So I take out my ADS chip, with no real change (except less power ). I get down to Dallas and my car is still running real crappy.

I take it to a shop and in order to get rid of the detontation they had to back off the timing to 0, (yes that's ZERO) degree's. The reason, I am told, is that the computer is used to Canadian climate and needs to adapt to Texas heat and humidity.

So now my car is slower than my wifes frikin' Chev cavalier!

The guy at the shop said that I could reset my computer completely. How is that done? Disconnect battery for 48 hours? When I reconnect am I going to have a problems (other than the sh*tty 0 timing??

I need some help, otherwise some dam ricer is going to try and race me and then claim he beat a V8 stang . I can't let that happen! Advice, please!

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1995 Mustang GT

[Stang Runner]

It will not take 48hr mabe 1 hour Disconnect battery and then put the headlights on. put the light off before you put your battery on and start the car with no acessorres on and let it run for like 8Min and trun it off and put ever thing on lights, a/c fan and then start the car and let it run for about 8min. and the computer should be all set but I dont know if that will fix your car hope it helps I did this on my car and it ran better I am not 100% that this is the way to do it on your newer car wont hurt to try. Good luck!
I had my car running Very bad a it was my Timming chain was sliping.

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14.62@96.9 Engine: Steal Mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, Home ported Lower Intake, No power steering, No A/C
Drive Train: 3.55, World Class T-5, Lakewood Bell housing, Adjustable Clutch Cable, AL Driveshaft
Suspension: MAC Control Arms, Maximum Motorsports Front Grip Package, H&R Sport Springs, Bilstein Shocks
Exhaust: 1 5/8 UN-Equal Length Mac Headers, X-pipe W\cats, Edelbrock cat\back
Cooling: 3 Core Radiator

[chadtn2]

Maybe you just picked up some bad gas somewhere. I wouldn't think your car would ever need to be set at 0 degrees timing.

Chad

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http://members.aol.com/chadtn

[blueneonman1]

Your distributor could have slipped, but that may not be the case since I assume the shop that backed your timing down to 0 saw it was ok to begin with.

My car just started pinging like crazy. I think my distributor may have slipped. It was fine a week ago, now i hear the rockshower in 3rd gear. That darn distrubutor hold-down bolt on the 5.0 is wedged in there so that you can't really get a good grip on it and I think I may not have tighened it enough last time i did timing. Check yours, but I may also think like chadtn2 said, I may have gotten bad gas...like the station refill truck dumped 87 in the 93 tank by mistake.

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Blueneonman - '95 5.0L Mustang GT Convertible | K&N Custom Cold Air Intake | FMS 9mm Wires | Hollow Cats | Flowmaster 2 Chambers | BBK Subframes | 6-pt Rollcage | King Cobra Clutch | FMS Adjustable Clutch Cable | B&M Short Throw | Coolest Neon Lighting on a Mustang EVER!

Homepage: http://www16.brinkster.com/blueneonman/

[dinomite]

its probably a combination of bad gas and the temp change, though i think more the former. to reset the computer, disconnect the neg battery cable for 30 min., then put it back on. start the car up with no accesories running, and run it for 10 minutes. then turn off, turn all accesories on, start up and run for 10 minutes.

as for the bad gas, go to the auto parts store, and get some gas dryier. use that, and then put your timing back at stock. i'm pretty sure that they sell mustangs in texas and canadia with the same stock timing.

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90LX AOD Convertable: Lakewood control arms, FMS springs.
Best 1/4: 15.277@92.25 (2.27 60')
AIM: dinomite1, roadracestang
dinomite@softhome.net

As far as resetting your computer.........
disconnect the negative cable for 15 minutes. Reattach it, Start engine up (no accessories running) and let it idle for 15 minutes. Shut it off and let it sit for 15 minutes. Turn it on (all accessories on this time - radio, wipers, a/c, hazards etc) and let it run at idle for another 15 minutes. Shut it off for another 15 minutes. Then start it up and drive her hard. I needed to do this after I added my JMS chip - it made a world of difference.

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'90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach drag-launch spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; Cervini's 3" turbo hood; A/C-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats; FMS 30# injectors; JMS chip; Holley 190lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113 - 1.78 60')

[95mustanggt]

I'll give the computer a reset a try. I don't know if I could be bad gas, I've put over 1500 miles since the problem started happening.

Thanks for the response guys.

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1995 Mustang GT

[95mustanggt]

Well I disconnected the battery for about 4 hours. I then ran the car for about 10 min with everything off (E-brake on though), waited about 5 min and turned it back on for 10 min with the A/C on, wipers on, Dome light, windows went up and down, rear window defroster, etc.

When I first started out the car had some good jam, then after the second light, it just died. No power at all.

Not a whole lot different from before. Did I reset the computer?

I think I'll get the timing bumped up and see what happens.

It'd be nice if I had a timing light, I hate to pay $42 for a timing adjustment

Any ideas??


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1995 Mustang GT

[dinomite]

eek! 40 bucks for timing? you can probably get a light for that.