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10-29-2001, 01:52 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 168
|
"Star" or Supporting Cast?
Got bit by the bug again...
have the all the freebies/cheapies, and full exhaust, gears, shiftkit. Wondering if I should jump in with heads, or get the intake/TB/MAF combo first...only have money for one. Kinda trying to get a little benefit now, obviously more gain as it is all together. 100K on the block, no leaks, smoke, or noises. AODE (I know) and kinda want to keep the stock cam, or similar...I heard the sn95 auto's can be tricky with a cam swap. Car is a daily driver, all street, no strip (well....) |
10-29-2001, 02:52 PM | #2 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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i've never heard that about the AODE and different cams, i have heard though you'll want a higher stall converter with certain cams
i think the biggest improvement you can make now is getting a PI stallion 2800-3000 RPM converter (about $700, roughly .4-.8 sec improvement) just doing the intake/TB/MAF will disappoint you on how much you spend compared to power gains the heads would be nice, but again you wouldnt see nearly the full potential without the intake and cam you've got a lot of money to spend ------------------ 88 Notch, B&M Ripper, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, full exhaust,65mm TB, Nitto DR's, new best 1/4--> 13.42@106.18 (1.89 short time) |
10-29-2001, 03:09 PM | #3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 168
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thanks, i think it is an idle thing with the sn95's and a large cam...ecu dont like it, takes some tuning.
everyone keeps telling me the stall converter. I have read a lot of info, talked, posted, etc, and cannot find anything more than a stall convertor is best for helping you launch in the correct ("powerband") rpm range - putting the most of the engines power to the rear end.. I drive 75% hiway, and am already at 2700 when i mash the gas to pass someone. around town, I keep my foot out of it for mpg sake. So, that being said, is there any other benefit to a different stall than better launches and 1/4 times with worse mpg? LOL at the "lot's of money to spend," trying to stay on a budget...iron heads, mild cam (B or steeda 21), intake... So, having $600 to play with would be best spent on a ~2800 stall and not toward heads/cam? |
10-29-2001, 03:28 PM | #4 |
Backyard Mechanic/Chemist
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Acton MA USA
Posts: 435
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I think you may have answered your question. Moving up to a high stall coverter will help out with track times but wont really help you on the road since the motor doesn't make any more actual power.
I would lean towards a set of GT-40 or 40-P heads, possibly slide a cam in there during the swap. Even that would break out over $600, why not just a good shot of NOS??? ------------------ Frank W 90 5.0 LX Notch MAC 2.5"cat bk FMS alu ds, MSD coil, MAC shifter 2.73 gears user site 88 Notch 2.3L FOR SALE! My two Notchbacks 74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 now 454 soon My web site |
10-29-2001, 03:49 PM | #5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 168
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thanks again for the replies...
I would love some spray, but at least $350 for a (used) kit that works sometimes, vs. money spent on something that works all the time. yeah, the used irons and a cam might do it..make a bit more hp anyway. I'm not trying to break into 12 or 13's - so don't really care about straightline numbers, would rather have some HP and be able to stick corners. I would definitely do the cam at the headswap - just wondering which one with what arm ratio's? |
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