Help! Quick question about rear end

Niks90coupe · 09-14-2001, 09:37 PM

Yes, I know my rear end is cute but I need to know if my mustangs has positive traction. It feels like it does but it only leaves one burn mark but I thought all 87-93 had positive traction on their rear ends. I drove an 87 and left 20 foot burn marks from both tires. Did AODs come without positive traction?

------------------
Nik
1990 LX Coupe

92lxStang · 09-14-2001, 11:33 PM

you t-lok is probally gone i just replaced mine. you can buy the rebuild kit from ford here is the part #F5AZ-4947-BA. here is a how to for ya.

Here's how:

It helps if you have a good manual but the instructions that come with
the kit are pretty good. The part number is F5AZ-4947-BA. It lists for a little over $60 at Ford but Mean Mustang Supply has it cheaper if you can wait. Get yourself a small fluid pump to reload the diff with, and get about 3 quarts of 80w-90 gear oil. If you
use synthetic you probably shouldn't use friction modifier. If you want absolute max trak-lok action and are willing to put up
with some unsettling noises from the rear end, don't use any modifier at all. It just makes the clutches more slippery so they
don't chatter. I chose to use it and I'm glad I did since this is my daily driver, autocrossed and dragraced for fun. Anyway, here
goes.

1) Jack up the rear end and support with stands.
2) Loosen the diff cover bolts, removing all but the top two so you don't take a gear-oil bath
3) Pry the cover loose and drain the rear into a pan.
4) When threat of bathing is gone remove the top bolts and pull the cover off
5) Scrape/wipe out the bottom of the diff.
6) Now is a good time to soak the new clutch discs in friction modifier, the need to soak for 20 minutes at least. If not friction
modifier, at least gear oil -- you don't want to put them in dry
7) The shaft going through the center of the diff is called the pinion shaft. It's got a lockbolt on one end. Undo the lockbolt and
push the shaft out.
8) Remove the wheels and brake drums, leave the other brake hardware alone. Push the axles inward, and you'll see the
c-clips that hold them in place. Remove the clips and pull the axles out gently -- don't torque the bearings on the way out and
don't let the axles hang, just remove them.
9) Get a grip on the s-spring and pull it out. You may need to punch it with a hammer to get it started, and keep a damn good
grip on it when you remove it you don't want it zinging around.
10) The gears you see are the pinion gears and the side gears, called spider gears. Rotate things until the spider gears pop
out, then pull the pinion gears out too. Inspect for damage.
11) Now you can simply slide the clutch packs out, use the tabs on the plates if necessary. Make sure you get them all out
including the shims.
12) Reinstall the clutches and steels in the proper order, using a shim at least as thick as the ones you removed. You want to
use the thickest shim you can while still being able to get the spider gears bac in. Forget about using the set-up tool and all
the special measurements, if you can get the spider gears back in you're all set.
13) To get the gears in, it helps to have a helper turn the now-temporarily-installed driver's side axle while you lock the
passenger-side pinion gear in place. The spider gears will squeze into place. They are perfectly aligned when you can get the
pinion shaft back in.
14) Re-install the s-spring. This can be a *****. Try holding it against its slot with a pair of channel-locks to get it squeezed
down a bit while prying it in with a piece of 2X4 using the swaybar as a fulcrum. Alternately, do the same but whack it with a mallet. It should pop in. If it doesn't, try using a 1-1/2 inch hose clamp to squeeze the
spring so you can insert it. Then cut the clamp and slide it out.
15) Re-install the axles by pushing them all the way in, installing the c-clips, and pulling the axles back out against the clips
which are now recessed in the housing and locked in place.
16) Reinstall the pinion shaft and make damn sure you put it in the right way so the new lockbolt can be installed. And do not
use the old lockbolt.
17) Use gasket maker on the diff housing and reinstall the cover.
18) Remove the fill bolt on the front drivers side of the housing, and wipe its tip off. It's magnetic and the silvery paste is metal
shavings.
19) Fill the housing until it comes out the fill hole and replace the plug.

i didn't soak my clutch disks in friction modifier i just soaked in gear oil. i was told not to soak them in the friction modifier.

Niks90coupe · 09-15-2001, 02:39 PM

Thanks! This is a big help! Maybe one day this year I'll get to do it

------------------
Nik
1990 LX Coupe

90dpscoupe · 09-16-2001, 12:43 AM

Hey, i have some stuff in a tube called "posi trac" and kinda thought it wouldnt hurt to add to my rearend, has anyone ever used this stuff? does it work?
thnx for any help, since we are on the rearend subject..

------------------
90 lx coupe: 5spd, energy susp trans mounts, fms hd clutch, Mac coldair fenderwell, Mac h-pipe, supercoil, ADS chip, 160 stat, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs.
Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks)
Best mph: 98.17
Best 60': 1.9607

someday mods:4.10's, slicks.

09-14-2001, 09:37 PM	#1
Niks90coupe Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Aiken, SC, USA Posts: 3	Help! Quick question about rear end Yes, I know my rear end is cute but I need to know if my mustangs has positive traction. It feels like it does but it only leaves one burn mark but I thought all 87-93 had positive traction on their rear ends. I drove an 87 and left 20 foot burn marks from both tires. Did AODs come without positive traction? ------------------ Nik 1990 LX Coupe

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09-14-2001, 11:33 PM	#2
92lxStang Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Posts: 12	you t-lok is probally gone i just replaced mine. you can buy the rebuild kit from ford here is the part #F5AZ-4947-BA. here is a how to for ya. Here's how: It helps if you have a good manual but the instructions that come with the kit are pretty good. The part number is F5AZ-4947-BA. It lists for a little over $60 at Ford but Mean Mustang Supply has it cheaper if you can wait. Get yourself a small fluid pump to reload the diff with, and get about 3 quarts of 80w-90 gear oil. If you use synthetic you probably shouldn't use friction modifier. If you want absolute max trak-lok action and are willing to put up with some unsettling noises from the rear end, don't use any modifier at all. It just makes the clutches more slippery so they don't chatter. I chose to use it and I'm glad I did since this is my daily driver, autocrossed and dragraced for fun. Anyway, here goes. 1) Jack up the rear end and support with stands. 2) Loosen the diff cover bolts, removing all but the top two so you don't take a gear-oil bath 3) Pry the cover loose and drain the rear into a pan. 4) When threat of bathing is gone remove the top bolts and pull the cover off 5) Scrape/wipe out the bottom of the diff. 6) Now is a good time to soak the new clutch discs in friction modifier, the need to soak for 20 minutes at least. If not friction modifier, at least gear oil -- you don't want to put them in dry 7) The shaft going through the center of the diff is called the pinion shaft. It's got a lockbolt on one end. Undo the lockbolt and push the shaft out. 8) Remove the wheels and brake drums, leave the other brake hardware alone. Push the axles inward, and you'll see the c-clips that hold them in place. Remove the clips and pull the axles out gently -- don't torque the bearings on the way out and don't let the axles hang, just remove them. 9) Get a grip on the s-spring and pull it out. You may need to punch it with a hammer to get it started, and keep a damn good grip on it when you remove it you don't want it zinging around. 10) The gears you see are the pinion gears and the side gears, called spider gears. Rotate things until the spider gears pop out, then pull the pinion gears out too. Inspect for damage. 11) Now you can simply slide the clutch packs out, use the tabs on the plates if necessary. Make sure you get them all out including the shims. 12) Reinstall the clutches and steels in the proper order, using a shim at least as thick as the ones you removed. You want to use the thickest shim you can while still being able to get the spider gears bac in. Forget about using the set-up tool and all the special measurements, if you can get the spider gears back in you're all set. 13) To get the gears in, it helps to have a helper turn the now-temporarily-installed driver's side axle while you lock the passenger-side pinion gear in place. The spider gears will squeze into place. They are perfectly aligned when you can get the pinion shaft back in. 14) Re-install the s-spring. This can be a *****. Try holding it against its slot with a pair of channel-locks to get it squeezed down a bit while prying it in with a piece of 2X4 using the swaybar as a fulcrum. Alternately, do the same but whack it with a mallet. It should pop in. If it doesn't, try using a 1-1/2 inch hose clamp to squeeze the spring so you can insert it. Then cut the clamp and slide it out. 15) Re-install the axles by pushing them all the way in, installing the c-clips, and pulling the axles back out against the clips which are now recessed in the housing and locked in place. 16) Reinstall the pinion shaft and make damn sure you put it in the right way so the new lockbolt can be installed. And do not use the old lockbolt. 17) Use gasket maker on the diff housing and reinstall the cover. 18) Remove the fill bolt on the front drivers side of the housing, and wipe its tip off. It's magnetic and the silvery paste is metal shavings. 19) Fill the housing until it comes out the fill hole and replace the plug. i didn't soak my clutch disks in friction modifier i just soaked in gear oil. i was told not to soak them in the friction modifier.

09-15-2001, 02:39 PM	#3
Niks90coupe Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Aiken, SC, USA Posts: 3	Thanks! This is a big help! Maybe one day this year I'll get to do it ------------------ Nik 1990 LX Coupe

09-16-2001, 12:43 AM	#4
90dpscoupe Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa Posts: 1,407	Hey, i have some stuff in a tube called "posi trac" and kinda thought it wouldnt hurt to add to my rearend, has anyone ever used this stuff? does it work? thnx for any help, since we are on the rearend subject.. ------------------ 90 lx coupe: 5spd, energy susp trans mounts, fms hd clutch, Mac coldair fenderwell, Mac h-pipe, supercoil, ADS chip, 160 stat, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs. Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks) Best mph: 98.17 Best 60': 1.9607 someday mods:4.10's, slicks.