how to check distributor function and plug wires?
 

I think I might have a ignition problem.It might be my wires or distributor.What things can I check or test for and how?

What kind of problem are you having??

First check to see if you have spark goin to your plugs.

Take a spark plug out,then re-attach the wire onto the plug you just removed.Then have a friend turn the motor over a few seconds,you should see spark coming from the plug.If not,it's in the distributor.

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Paxton Blown 87GT
ICQ:91504337

The problem is less pull at high rpm's.I had the fuel system pressure tested last week and it's fine.I also tested for vacuum leaks and there were none.I think the problem is in the ignition.

Have your exhaust system checked for a restriction.

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351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

Can I check the exhaust for restriction myself.

If you've got a vacuum gauge you can. Hook it up to manifold vacuum and watch it while idling. If it starts to slowly drop, you've got a restricted exhaust.

Take care
~Chris

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Retired Moderator
MustangNet
My site: JimPorterRacing
RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

Well I already did that test a few weeks ago.I gauge stayed a steady 17 psi.

Then it's not restricted, at least not enough to cause any problems. High rpm power loss is often a coil problem. What kind do you have and how old is it? You can test your plug wires with a multimeter set to measure Ohms. If any of your wires measure 20,000 ohms or more, from end to end, replace the set. A good set, like Accel 300+ Race Wires, will be as low as 100 ohms per wire, but stock wires have alot higher resistance.

Take care
~Chris

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Retired Moderator
MustangNet
My site: JimPorterRacing
RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

I have the original coil with 136,000 miles.I tested the coil with my multimeter and the specs were what my haynes manual says.Could it still be bad?

Absolutely. The tests you did don't measure output at high rpm's. This doesn't mean it is the coil, but it certianly could be. Use your meter to test the plug wires and post the results. Just remember, the best ignition system in the world isn't going to do squat if the juice can't get to the plugs! Check the wires.

Take care
~Chris

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Retired Moderator
MustangNet
My site: JimPorterRacing
RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

I also forgot to say I have FMS wires that are only 4 months old.They don't fit real tight and they gey loose.I bumped my timing up to 14 a week ago after the car ran real weak for one day and that helped some.My car varies all the time on how much power it has .Past 3000 rpm the car just doesn't have the pull that it used to.It doesn't pull weak,but it's just not real strong.When the car runs real strong it also runs much smoother which is usually the first ten or so minutes.

I just tested the plug wires.They read between 1.90 to 2.80 ohms.I have Equus meter and I set the ohm to read in 20k range.

I'm not saying it will solve your problems completely, but I suspect the coil should be replaced. You can pick up a decent PS91 for under $50, and install it in two minutes. That's the best I can recommend without actually seeing it. You've tested the fuel system, you checked for vacuum leaks, you've confirmed that there isn't excessive backpressure in the exhaust, and you've tested the rest of your ignition system. I learned a long time ago that the easiest way to start a diagnosis is to remember that it only takes 4 things for an engine to run:
Air, Fuel, Ignition and Compression. Have you checked your compression? If your vacuum is steady at 17", your compression is fine, but you might want to check anyway. I'd try the coil.

Take care
~Chris

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Retired Moderator
MustangNet
My site: JimPorterRacing
RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

I did a compression check a month ago and six cylinders were 169 and on one was 170 and another 174.I also did a leak down test and and it was in the green area.Does it matter what kind of coil I get?Will one from Kragen work?

I would by a quality one, such as a Crane PS91. It matters in that a new Kragen coil won't be anywhere near as good as an OEM Ford coil, which means it's probably as good as what you've got now. The factory OEM ignition systems Ford has been using are top notch when they are new. When my 95 F-150 was a year old, I installed a Crane HI-6 box, and it ran worse! The factory CD ignition was as good if not better than the best out there. Yours isn't as good as new anymore, which is why you should replace it with one that is (as good as a new OEM coil. Get a Crane. Trust me.

Take care
~Chris

Well I ordered a MSD blaster coil from Summit Racing.Kragen usually sells they around where I live,but they were out of stock.I have only heard good things about MSD.I also ordered a set of Taylor Spiral wires since the FMS don't fit real tight.When I receive these items I will post on how the car runs.Thanks a lot for the input.

I think you'll be pleased.