How to be cool?
 

I have a 2 core hi-effecency radiator in my pony now. When I had my stock motor, the temp never went above the 3rd line from the bottom durring Houston's summer in traffic. It cooled it so good, that I litterally didn't have heat in the winter time (my motor never got that hot). I have a Black Majic Electic fan too. So you can see, it cooled my motor really good.

Now that I have a big bad 347:D , it's not doing it job as good as it use to. Mostly because my new motor runs hotter. Does anybody know of a radiator that I can get to cool it better?

I was thinking about the "Be Cool" radiator that summit has (Part number BCI-82165) but that's a lot of money for a radiator. I am thinking a 3 core alunium radiator will do the trick.

why not just try a differnt thermo first? that is what i would do

I got me a 3 core aluminum Modine radiator from NAPA for $125 bucks.. and I got a lifetiem guarantee with it to.. what yo ugonan get with a Be Cool. NOTTA.

Bradley

Check out the Griffin radiators.

Here is what I installed in mine:
http://www.dariusrudis.com/mustang/e...d_install.html

i run a ROn davis alum radiator with a sn95 fan and IMO is the best for the $$$..way cheaper and more efficent than a becool setup

Hey cyberstang5.0,
This is off topic, sorry, but where did you get your hood and ground kit? That' s exactly what I'm going for.

Thanks!
Justin

i too run a griffin radiator. They have excellent customer support and service. I highly recommend them.

another vote for the griffen:)

I'm running a 160 therm as it is.

I got my hood from either ABC Exclusive or Design Concepts, I can't remember. I got the hood from one place, and the rear bumper and spoiler from the other. The front bumper is a Cervini GT Stalker. The sides are just the stock GT ground effects.





Someone told me to get a 3 core alunium rad and a small thin electric fan to mount in front of the rad to PUSH the air though the rad in addition to my black majic fan.

cyberstang5.0:
If your scoop is cut out already you picked it up from Design Concepts. The similar design from ABC is not pre-cut.

Thanks, by the way, your ride look identical to what I was going for. Just hope mine turns out as nice. I'm picking it up Thursday, then the work and fun begins!

Justin

Oops. Realized I mis-spoke just now. The Design Concepts is NOT cut out, nor is the ABC one.

Is it difficult to cut that out?

Thanks again,
Justin

I didn't cut out the front scoop cuz if it rains, my distrubitor sits right below it and I don't want that to get wet. The rear cowl vents are cut out though. So the back part is functional. I just used a drimil tool to cut out the cowl vents.

Sorry - cowl vents? On the hood? Am I missing something in the pictures I've seen?

Thanks again, your time is appreciated.

Justin

yeah cowl vents, just like the regular 2" or 4" cowl hoods. They suck air in from the back by the windshield. I cut the pannels out so they would be functional. The entire cowl part sits 3" high.

Thank you for all the information again. I'm picking up the car on Thursday and will then start my modifications list, starting with the hood.

Justin

Few questions and comments:

1. Try a 180 degree stat and you might be surprised that it will run cooler. With a large 351 the 160 stat will run in an open loop the whole time the engine is running at tempature. This won't give your coolant a chance to cool down in the radiator before going back into the engine.

2. Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't a cowl hood suck air OUT from under the hood at the windshield? not in. Physics tells us that fast air(above the hood) is at lower pressure than stagnant air(under the hood). so as you go faster and faster there is less pressure on top of the hood than under it, this should create a sucking effect at the windshield. This in turn allows for more cooler air to be brought in the front of the hood. Someone please correct this idea if I'm wrong. This is just the way I always thought it worked.

There is low pressure on top of the hood, which is cooler then high pressure. This gets "sucked" in like a vacume. That is why ppl have cowl hoods to take advantage of the colder air. Only carbed motors can use this to their advantage without spending an arm and a leg to run a custome intake design. If you check out NASCAR's, there is a "hole" infront of the windsheild. They are using the same concept, but with better airodynamics.

The only low pressure zone on the hood is between the radiator and the carb area.
The windshield is a high pressure zone. Thats why the cars use this area for your A/C, and cowl induction into the carb on 6-'s cars...

On our Mustangs, it is NOT a cooling thing. The reason I got the cowl hood:
1. looks cool (ok, so I had to admit it)
2. weight (but its only like 15# savings, and not a good bang for buck)
3. The cowel lets ar OUT, yes OUT when driving less than 40mph. Also when I park the car (drive it to work), I dont raise the hood when I stop.
4. Its NOT for the high-speed, as air run INTO the engine compartment, and stagnates the radiator air (throughput), and has a worse effect on the radiator, but does aid in getting air over the headers.

If you dont believe me, tape a piece of yarn on the back edge and see at what speed and where the yarn goes!

I run a 3 core heavy duty from autozone, $130.00. I like the idea of alum. for $125.00. I have a 180 stat. I have an elec. fan but it never comes on. I went street race yesterday, 4 passes, the temp needle was on the secound line from the bottom. I do have alot less motor than most of you all.
The cowl hood, drive in the rain, the air goes in. I never have any dist, wire, elec, ect... problems. It does get the motor a little dirty.