How to diagnose a bad clutch cable...

Bad89stang · 06-03-2002, 09:16 PM

I think my cable is stretched out. I have already done the pedal remedy but it hasn't helped. After driving in traffic it is sometimes hard to get it into first. 2nd occasionally is hard to engage. The tranny seems fine and the clutch is fairly new. How can I tell if it is worn out? To shift into reverse I have to go to 5th and then down to R.

I am thinking about putting in a new cable with a quadrant and firewall adjuster. Will this help? By the way, I shift by the book. I never quick shift or drop the clutch. I usually push in the pedal... Shift into N and pause for a moment and then to the gear that I am going to.

82 GT · 06-03-2002, 09:44 PM

Did you try adjusting the clutch at the clutch fork?

Bad89stang · 06-03-2002, 10:41 PM

Not yet... Is it like a bicycle brake cable where you can pull some slack out and then re-tighten?

Coupe5oh · 06-03-2002, 11:13 PM

no, factory cable can Not be adjusted at the fork, it's weird how the haynes manual shows an adjustable one in their picture

anyway, does it feel sticky? mine looked burnt over bye where it comes out of the rubber, i had the, in traffic troubles too, ever since i installed my d&d quadrant the problem went away, but its weird because i still have to go almost all the way to the floor to shift still, but i have noticed in traffic, i dont have to sit there when the light goes green and wresle it in to 1st, i hated that

, if you get a quadrant let us know, these guys helped me install mine, it looked a whole lot harder than it was...good luck

btw, i have the firewall adjuster and stilll havent experimented with it much, but i believe it will adjust further off the floor to your likeing.

Bad89stang · 06-03-2002, 11:16 PM

It isn't sticking at all, but it does not disengage until it is about 2 inches from the floor. I am going to get the Forte quadrant kit that comes with the firewall adjuster and replace the cable as well.

82 GT · 06-04-2002, 02:16 PM

That would be your best bet. I have seen people use a thick nut or spacer at the fork to gain a little extra adjustment. It's only a temporary fix. You could try that until you get your adjustable cabe quadrant.

Coupe5oh · 06-04-2002, 04:44 PM

yea i dont see why someone cant get some washers and cut them to where they would slip over the cable for a little more adjustment, but bah, the quadrants are cheap enough.

Tricked Out Yod · 06-04-2002, 10:02 PM

I think I have the same problem. Its just really hard to push down on the clutch in the first place

. And letting off is like a spring bomb and it doesnt engage until like 2 inches as well..btw Bad89stang, nice LX, I have a notchback like that too. Ive heard there rare. I should get pics soon.

Bad89stang · 06-04-2002, 10:07 PM

Thanks... send me those pics sometime

Tricked Out Yod · 06-04-2002, 10:16 PM

Np, its a similar color to yours too. Go to Navasota Raceway any?

Bad89stang · 06-05-2002, 12:13 AM

Never been there, but I did go to A&M from '93 to '98. I live in Fort Worth now. I had an F-150 back then.

drtbiker · 06-06-2002, 12:08 AM

**** my cable is going to, i have a after market bbk cable and they are junk, i had it on for like 6 months and have adjusted it some many times and it just keeps on stretching

Bad89stang · 06-06-2002, 03:15 AM

O.K. this project sucks. I bought a Racecraft clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster. What a pain in the *** to take out the old quadrant and pawl.

The firewall adjuster was darn near impossible to fit into the firewall. So I have just about finished but I am out of steam for now. I got the Ford Racing clutch cable to replace my old one. This is one nice piece! I can already tell my clutch is going to be much easier to push in. If you have to get a new cable, this is the one to buy. Very thick and well constructed. $49. The quadrant and adjuster was $65. What a PITA though. Wish I was rich so I could pay some poor soul to do this.

06-03-2002, 09:16 PM	#1
Bad89stang Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 456	How to diagnose a bad clutch cable... I think my cable is stretched out. I have already done the pedal remedy but it hasn't helped. After driving in traffic it is sometimes hard to get it into first. 2nd occasionally is hard to engage. The tranny seems fine and the clutch is fairly new. How can I tell if it is worn out? To shift into reverse I have to go to 5th and then down to R. I am thinking about putting in a new cable with a quadrant and firewall adjuster. Will this help? By the way, I shift by the book. I never quick shift or drop the clutch. I usually push in the pedal... Shift into N and pause for a moment and then to the gear that I am going to. __________________ You're gonna need your seatbelt

06-03-2002, 09:44 PM	#2
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	Did you try adjusting the clutch at the clutch fork? __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

06-03-2002, 10:41 PM	#3
Bad89stang Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 456	Not yet... Is it like a bicycle brake cable where you can pull some slack out and then re-tighten? __________________ You're gonna need your seatbelt

06-03-2002, 11:13 PM	#4
Coupe5oh Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 734	no, factory cable can Not be adjusted at the fork, it's weird how the haynes manual shows an adjustable one in their picture anyway, does it feel sticky? mine looked burnt over bye where it comes out of the rubber, i had the, in traffic troubles too, ever since i installed my d&d quadrant the problem went away, but its weird because i still have to go almost all the way to the floor to shift still, but i have noticed in traffic, i dont have to sit there when the light goes green and wresle it in to 1st, i hated that , if you get a quadrant let us know, these guys helped me install mine, it looked a whole lot harder than it was...good luck btw, i have the firewall adjuster and stilll havent experimented with it much, but i believe it will adjust further off the floor to your likeing. __________________ Police package 5spd 90 Lx, Stock original motor, 3.27grs, BM fan, fms 10.5 clutch, D&D quadrant, and adjuster, ADS chip, 180 stat, mac cai, mac h-pipe, mac subframe connectors, ASP crank pulley, ripper shifter, 26x10.5 M/T sport pros welds. 246 hp according to analyzer Race weight: 3,120 E.t-13.57 with 26x10.50's e.t. streets. 1.88 60' mph- 99.92 mph

06-03-2002, 11:16 PM	#5
Bad89stang Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 456	It isn't sticking at all, but it does not disengage until it is about 2 inches from the floor. I am going to get the Forte quadrant kit that comes with the firewall adjuster and replace the cable as well. __________________ You're gonna need your seatbelt

06-04-2002, 02:16 PM	#6
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	That would be your best bet. I have seen people use a thick nut or spacer at the fork to gain a little extra adjustment. It's only a temporary fix. You could try that until you get your adjustable cabe quadrant. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

06-04-2002, 04:44 PM	#7
Coupe5oh Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 734	yea i dont see why someone cant get some washers and cut them to where they would slip over the cable for a little more adjustment, but bah, the quadrants are cheap enough. __________________ Police package 5spd 90 Lx, Stock original motor, 3.27grs, BM fan, fms 10.5 clutch, D&D quadrant, and adjuster, ADS chip, 180 stat, mac cai, mac h-pipe, mac subframe connectors, ASP crank pulley, ripper shifter, 26x10.5 M/T sport pros welds. 246 hp according to analyzer Race weight: 3,120 E.t-13.57 with 26x10.50's e.t. streets. 1.88 60' mph- 99.92 mph

06-04-2002, 10:02 PM	#8
Tricked Out Yod Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Central Texas Posts: 10	I think I have the same problem. Its just really hard to push down on the clutch in the first place . And letting off is like a spring bomb and it doesnt engage until like 2 inches as well..btw Bad89stang, nice LX, I have a notchback like that too. Ive heard there rare. I should get pics soon. __________________ 1987 Mustang LX 5.0 bored 0.40 over, 306ci, recent rebuild, 5 speed manual overdrive, recent rebuild as well, summit adj. alum clutch quadrant, anodized alum. underdrive pulleys, mac unequal length shorty headers, flowmaster mufflers, bbk chrome cold air induction kit, k&n conical filter, new struts and tie rod ends.

06-04-2002, 10:07 PM	#9
Bad89stang Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 456	Thanks... send me those pics sometime __________________ You're gonna need your seatbelt

06-04-2002, 10:16 PM	#10
Tricked Out Yod Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Central Texas Posts: 10	Np, its a similar color to yours too. Go to Navasota Raceway any? __________________ 1987 Mustang LX 5.0 bored 0.40 over, 306ci, recent rebuild, 5 speed manual overdrive, recent rebuild as well, summit adj. alum clutch quadrant, anodized alum. underdrive pulleys, mac unequal length shorty headers, flowmaster mufflers, bbk chrome cold air induction kit, k&n conical filter, new struts and tie rod ends.

06-05-2002, 12:13 AM	#11
Bad89stang Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 456	Never been there, but I did go to A&M from '93 to '98. I live in Fort Worth now. I had an F-150 back then. __________________ You're gonna need your seatbelt

06-06-2002, 12:08 AM	#12
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	**** my cable is going to, i have a after market bbk cable and they are junk, i had it on for like 6 months and have adjusted it some many times and it just keeps on stretching __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

06-06-2002, 03:15 AM	#13
Bad89stang Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 456	It is almost finished... AAAGGGGHHHH O.K. this project sucks. I bought a Racecraft clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster. What a pain in the *** to take out the old quadrant and pawl. The firewall adjuster was darn near impossible to fit into the firewall. So I have just about finished but I am out of steam for now. I got the Ford Racing clutch cable to replace my old one. This is one nice piece! I can already tell my clutch is going to be much easier to push in. If you have to get a new cable, this is the one to buy. Very thick and well constructed. $49. The quadrant and adjuster was $65. What a PITA though. Wish I was rich so I could pay some poor soul to do this. __________________ You're gonna need your seatbelt

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