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05-22-2002, 10:02 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Palm Harbor, FL
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VERY VERY short belt for the track...anyone done this??
I was thinking about next time I got to the track, just putting on a belt which runs the water pump and alt. Anyone tried this? What kind of gains are possible and is it safe?
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Blue Streak - '95 5.0L Mustang GT convertible | Saleen heat extractor fiberglass hood | K&N custom CAI | Taylor Spiro Pros | Walbro 255lph pump | Kirban AFPR | MSD Cap/Rotor/Blaster TFI | 2 chamber flows w/ dumps | BBK LTs | BBK short h-pipe | No smog or EGR | NOS 75hp dry kit w/ heater & purge | Battery in trunk| Chassis Eng. subframes | Custom 6-pt rollbar | King Cobra clutch | Steeda adj. clutch cable w/ double hook quad. & firewall adj. | B&M Ripper shifter | FMS C springs | Pro3i C/C plates | Lakewood 70/30 struts | Comp. Eng. 3-way shocks | Chassis Eng. LCAs | Fan switch | 180* thermo FMS| Kumho Ecsta 255/40's all around | Coolest neon lighting on a Mustang EVER! Don't find yourself in front of me...my brakes SUCK! saving up for a complete Cobra package Homepage: http://www16.brinkster.com/blueneonman/ Best 1/4 time: 13.5 @ 101 Best 1/8 time: 8.6 @ 84 |
05-23-2002, 03:37 PM | #2 |
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Location: Toledo, Ohio, USA
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You could try that, the tough part would be routing it to keep the CCW rotation of the water pump.
Your best bet might be to run a belt around the alternator, A/C (if not running, it is free-wheeling), WP and crank. That way you bypass the PS and smog.
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1989 LX Convertible, blue with white top and leather, 5 speed. Engine: GT40 al. heads, Cobra intake, TFS cam, 1.7RR, etc.... LOLDrivetrain: SPEC II clutch & FMS Billet flywheel, Pro 5.0 shifter w/Cobra knob and aluminum driveshaft through 3.73:1 gears.Chassis: 4 wheel disk w/Cobra front brakes, GT rears and 2001 "Bullitt" wheels Rear: MM adjustable LCAs with Griggs springs, KYB shocks. Front: Koni red struts, FMS "C" springs and full poly bushings. Full length MM sub frame connectors, steeda 2pt. K-brace.Misc.: 130a alt. upgrade, R134a conversion. Photos of my car |
05-23-2002, 06:46 PM | #3 |
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Long as you keep the proper rotation on your water pump you'll be fine, like Time89 said. A guy in my club runs a belt like that at the track, bypassing the ps, a/c, and smog. I've seen guys pull the belt alltogether before they run down the strip, that'll give you the best results if you really want a couple tenths. Pull it off right before you run and put it back on the return road. Not my thing, but I've seen several guys do it and get results.
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05-23-2002, 07:46 PM | #4 |
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1994GT-Vibrant Red, FRPP GT-40X Heads, Scorpion 1.7 Roller Rockers, Crower 15511 Cam, Edelbrock RPM Intake, BBK 70MM Throttle Body, Pro-M 77MM Mass Air, FRPP 24# Injectors, Kirban Fuel Pressure Reg., MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, MAC Prochamber, MAC Cat Back, March Pulleys, FRPP 3:55 gears, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, FRPP King Cobra Clutch, Steeda Upper/Lower Control Arms, Steeda G-Trac Bar, Steeda Strut Tower Brace, Steeda Sub Frames, Steeda Caster/Camber Plates, FRPP 5300-C Srings, Auto Meter Fuel Pressure/Water Temp Guages and alot more. |
05-23-2002, 09:10 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: baytown,tx,us
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belt size
i run mine like that all the time i have a race crank pulley and a cobras water pump pulley and a small alt pulley it takes a 39 in belt
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05-23-2002, 10:06 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
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I run mine like that all the time too, it's worth it. The only thing is on an 87-93, don't know about yours but it should be the same, you have to grind the end off the spring in the idler and put a bolt through the middle of it to let it come around enough to put tension on the belt.
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90 Mustang, full weight, 5 speed, pulleys, 3.73 gears... 13.33@101 mph on stock motor and DOT's 12.44@112.5 on the juice. Check out our clubs website at http://www.stanggang.com |
05-23-2002, 10:51 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,938
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Bypassing the PS and Smog will give you the most gains and as long as you keep your air conditioning off, the compressor pulley free wheels because the clutch isn't engaged.
Another thing i've heard of is wiring up a switch that kills the alternator right before you take a pass and you can switch it on at the end of the run and that is like a free 5 hp. The entire resistance of an alternator comes from it being electromagnetically charged when it's charging the battery. a switch on the control circuit side of an added in relay should be easy enough to wire in (wire in so the circuit is normally closed and opens when the relay field is activated). Just an idea. Good luck, Edit: sorry Tim89LXvert, i guess i repeated part of what you already said
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05-23-2002, 11:40 PM | #8 |
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I know a guy that does the alt kill swich on a carbed car, i wouldnt do it on a efi car. I just ran a shorter belt last nigh at the track, it didnt give me any gain, although i got more wheelspin, but no gain in mph, so i put the belt back on and ran a 14.0003 with a 1.999 60'. with a bog, humidity was bad, the short belt just doesnt work for me, but works for others, maybe if i can get traction, it either spins or boggs, need gears.
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Police package 5spd 90 Lx, Stock original motor, 3.27grs, BM fan, fms 10.5 clutch, D&D quadrant, and adjuster, ADS chip, 180 stat, mac cai, mac h-pipe, mac subframe connectors, ASP crank pulley, ripper shifter, 26x10.5 M/T sport pros welds. 246 hp according to analyzer Race weight: 3,120 E.t-13.57 with 26x10.50's e.t. streets. 1.88 60' mph- 99.92 mph |
05-24-2002, 05:18 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Take care, -Chris
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05-24-2002, 10:12 AM | #10 |
motors done......woohooo
Join Date: Mar 2002
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I USED TO HAVE AN 89LX, AND I JUST RAN THE BELT SO THE WATER PUMP WAS GOING BACKWARDS, THE CAR STILL RAN VERY COOL, I HAD IT AROUND THE ALT. WP, AND CRANK
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