How good are 4.10 gears and AOD?

KG88GT · 01-31-2002, 06:04 PM

I am concidering putting 4.10 gears in my 88GT. how big of an improvement will this be? And how high will my engine be running on the highway (approx)?
thanks
KG88GT

silver_pilate · 01-31-2002, 06:28 PM

You will be pleased with the improved acceleration with the 4.10's and AOD. Alot of folks will tell you that is the only way to go for AOD performance. I run 3.73's with my AOD with a 2800 non lock-up converter and I run 2600 rpm at 70. With the stock torque converter and 4.10's, you should run about the same...maybe a tad higher.

--nathan

Sonics2042 · 02-01-2002, 01:13 AM

Can anyone tell me how how a stall converter works and what exactly it gives you performance wise?

Thanks,
DoranW

88COBRA · 02-01-2002, 09:44 AM

From my friends over at Edge Racing Converters

What is Stall?
The easy answer is: The RPM a torque converter will allow the engine to attain with a given engine torque input.

How is Stall measured?
That's where the confusion begins between the racer and the builder. Stall is measured in three different ways. TRUE, BRAKE and FLASH Stall. The only true way to set stall is using TRUE stall math.

What is TRUE Stall?
True stall is measured with the transmission locked (Trans brake) and the drive shaft still. The throttle is then fully depressed and held to obtain the holding RPM of the torque converter. This is the "TRUE" Stall.
TRUE Stall is the only real way to insure that the stall converter is set up properly for the intended combo.

What is foot Brake stall?
This is attained with the transmission in gear and the brakes depressed fully. Now slowly apply the accelerator. The RPM the engine reaches the moment before the tires spin is known as the "BRAKE" Stall
BRAKE Stall in not a consistent way to measure your stall converter and has many variables. This method will be lower then TRUE stall by 600-1000 RPM

What is FLASH Stall?
Flash stall is generally read while the car is in motion. While rolling at a slow speed the throttle is depressed fully to see where the RPM will flash (or peak)
This method will not be true if tires spin or car is rolling too fast.
Due to the turbine already turning in converter we end up with less torque multiplication.
This will give you a lower stall reading of between 200 and 800 RPM under the converters TRUE stall in the same application.

green92gt · 02-01-2002, 02:52 PM

Go with 373--i made a mistake (did not know) and installed 355 in my car when it had an aod. you will not be up set--more get up and go and you can still drive the car on the highway

50redvert · 02-01-2002, 05:31 PM

i happy with 4.10s in my AOD

FivepointOH · 02-01-2002, 06:42 PM

4:10's is the only way to go man... i'm at 2700 at 70 in OD.... look at my sig for time... i was running low 15's, MAYBE a high 14 b4 the gear change and pulleys.

silver_pilate · 02-01-2002, 09:00 PM

Good explanation of some confusing terms, 88Cobra.

A torque converter works similar to the clutch in a T-5. It takes the output of the motor from the flywheel and transfers it to the transmission. However, instead of using a friction plate like a clutch, it uses fluid dynamics and viscosity to couple the engine and tranny. The converter has blades in it similar to an impeller. The blades spin submerssed in the transmission fluid. The fluid provides resistance against the blades. The faster they spin, the more the resistance. Eventually, the resistance is so great that the tranny and engine are essentially coupled together. This is the true stall speed.

Converters are built with a little "slip" in them to allow the engine to rev up closer to its powerband. Otherwise, the one-to-one coupling would bog the motor off the line every time because the motor doesn't make enough power at 600-700 rpms to move the car forward. The stock converter essentially lets the motor rev up to around 1500 rpm's before the resistance of the fluid "locks" up the converter. This is still considerably short of the stock or modified 302's powerband. Therefore, when you floor it, the engine surges strong, then suddenly bogs down a bit when the converter reaches its stall speed and locks up only to come back strong at around 3000 rpm. This was the way my AOD always acted. When you install a higher stall speed converter, it allows the engine to reach its powerband more quickly before the converter locks up. A 2800 rpm converter puts you right at the beginning of the powerband, thus eliminating the bog.

A higher stall speed converter is absolutely one of the best modifications you can make to an AOD car. The converter, coupled with sufficiant gearing transforms the mundane AOD into a fun and considerably quicker off the line vehicle to drive.

--nathan

Mach 1 · 02-02-2002, 01:20 AM

4.10's

anything less, and you will be disapointed.

4.10's are fine on the highway, dont sweat it.

HiFlow5 0 · 02-02-2002, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mach 1
4.10's

anything less, and you will be disapointed.

4.10's are fine on the highway, dont sweat it.

what about tranny life? will prolonged driving at high speeds and high rpm's shorten the life of the tranny? or would a shift kit, trans cool, and such help that problem?

Mach 1 · 02-02-2002, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by HiFlow5 0

what about tranny life? will prolonged driving at high speeds and high rpm's shorten the life of the tranny? or would a shift kit, trans cool, and such help that problem?

RPM's wears the engine, not the tranny. Slightly higher highway RPM is not a big deal. Cars used to never even have overdrive, and all had 3 speed automatics on the highway. This would be like driving your AOD equipped stang in third gear without a lock-up converter on the highway. No big deal, thats the way all cars used to drive. the only reason for lock-up converters and 4th overdrive greas was for increased fuel economy.

A shift kit and tranny cooler is always a good idea, even in a stock set up.

Rob23 · 02-02-2002, 10:34 PM

are 4.10s good for a T5?

01-31-2002, 06:04 PM	#1
KG88GT Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pueblo, CO, USA Posts: 43	How good are 4.10 gears and AOD? I am concidering putting 4.10 gears in my 88GT. how big of an improvement will this be? And how high will my engine be running on the highway (approx)? thanks KG88GT

01-31-2002, 06:28 PM	#2
silver_pilate DURKA DURKA!! Join Date: Sep 1997 Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle) Posts: 1,418	You will be pleased with the improved acceleration with the 4.10's and AOD. Alot of folks will tell you that is the only way to go for AOD performance. I run 3.73's with my AOD with a 2800 non lock-up converter and I run 2600 rpm at 70. With the stock torque converter and 4.10's, you should run about the same...maybe a tad higher. --nathan __________________ '91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT

02-01-2002, 09:44 AM	#4
88COBRA STANGPOWER.COM Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,045	From my friends over at Edge Racing Converters *What is Stall?* The easy answer is: The RPM a torque converter will allow the engine to attain with a given engine torque input. *How is Stall measured?* That's where the confusion begins between the racer and the builder. Stall is measured in three different ways. TRUE, BRAKE and FLASH Stall. The only true way to set stall is using TRUE stall math. *What is TRUE Stall?* True stall is measured with the transmission locked (Trans brake) and the drive shaft still. The throttle is then fully depressed and held to obtain the holding RPM of the torque converter. This is the "TRUE" Stall. TRUE Stall is the only real way to insure that the stall converter is set up properly for the intended combo. *What is foot Brake stall?* This is attained with the transmission in gear and the brakes depressed fully. Now slowly apply the accelerator. The RPM the engine reaches the moment before the tires spin is known as the "BRAKE" Stall BRAKE Stall in not a consistent way to measure your stall converter and has many variables. This method will be lower then TRUE stall by 600-1000 RPM *What is FLASH Stall?* Flash stall is generally read while the car is in motion. While rolling at a slow speed the throttle is depressed fully to see where the RPM will flash (or peak) This method will not be true if tires spin or car is rolling too fast. Due to the turbine already turning in converter we end up with less torque multiplication. This will give you a lower stall reading of between 200 and 800 RPM under the converters TRUE stall in the same application. __________________ My WebSites: VortechPower.com - Brand new site for Vortech users! NOVIPOWER.COM - Devoted to the performance of the NOVI supercharger STANGPOWER.COM - A small community based in Canada for Mustangs *MORE WebSites Coming soon* PLEASE NOTE: I am not an affiliate (nor do I work for) any Mustang parts retailers - I create informational Mustang WebSites

02-01-2002, 02:52 PM	#5
green92gt Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Lancaster, Ohio Posts: 159	Go with 373--i made a mistake (did not know) and installed 355 in my car when it had an aod. you will not be up set--more get up and go and you can still drive the car on the highway __________________ 92 gt, ATI Procharger 9 Psi., P.A. C-4 w 3200 stall, 3:55's, Flowmaster Dumps, Cobra Intake, MSD,Al. Driveshaft, Jeg's Safety Loop, Griffin Al. Radiator, Stock Heads, Cam, Rockers, 12.5 @ 108 on street tires, much more on the way

02-01-2002, 06:42 PM	#7
FivepointOH Registered Member Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Sugar Land, Tx USA Posts: 478	4:10's is the only way to go man... i'm at 2700 at 70 in OD.... look at my sig for time... i was running low 15's, MAYBE a high 14 b4 the gear change and pulleys. __________________ 92 AOD GT, K&N, ram air, pulleys, 2 ch. flowmasters, 4:10's, shift kit, 1 5/8 mac longtubes and offroad hpipe 14.249 @ 97.34 Lakewood 90/10's and 50/50's

02-01-2002, 01:13 AM	#3
Sonics2042 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 381	Can anyone tell me how how a stall converter works and what exactly it gives you performance wise? Thanks, DoranW

02-01-2002, 05:31 PM	#6
50redvert Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Posts: 32	i happy with 4.10s in my AOD

02-01-2002, 09:00 PM	#8
silver_pilate DURKA DURKA!! Join Date: Sep 1997 Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle) Posts: 1,418	Good explanation of some confusing terms, 88Cobra. A torque converter works similar to the clutch in a T-5. It takes the output of the motor from the flywheel and transfers it to the transmission. However, instead of using a friction plate like a clutch, it uses fluid dynamics and viscosity to couple the engine and tranny. The converter has blades in it similar to an impeller. The blades spin submerssed in the transmission fluid. The fluid provides resistance against the blades. The faster they spin, the more the resistance. Eventually, the resistance is so great that the tranny and engine are essentially coupled together. This is the true stall speed. Converters are built with a little "slip" in them to allow the engine to rev up closer to its powerband. Otherwise, the one-to-one coupling would bog the motor off the line every time because the motor doesn't make enough power at 600-700 rpms to move the car forward. The stock converter essentially lets the motor rev up to around 1500 rpm's before the resistance of the fluid "locks" up the converter. This is still considerably short of the stock or modified 302's powerband. Therefore, when you floor it, the engine surges strong, then suddenly bogs down a bit when the converter reaches its stall speed and locks up only to come back strong at around 3000 rpm. This was the way my AOD always acted. When you install a higher stall speed converter, it allows the engine to reach its powerband more quickly before the converter locks up. A 2800 rpm converter puts you right at the beginning of the powerband, thus eliminating the bog. A higher stall speed converter is absolutely one of the best modifications you can make to an AOD car. The converter, coupled with sufficiant gearing transforms the mundane AOD into a fun and considerably quicker off the line vehicle to drive. --nathan __________________ '91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT

02-02-2002, 01:20 AM	#9
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	4.10's anything less, and you will be disapointed. 4.10's are fine on the highway, dont sweat it. __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

02-02-2002, 10:34 PM	#12
Rob23 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Minnesota Posts: 21	are 4.10s good for a T5? __________________ My 5.0